After spending two fabulous, extraordinary days at Buffalo Camp we were quite anxious about changing location inside Kapama, because we couldn't quite imagine how anyone or anything could match the time that we had had at Buffalo. Well ... the staff at the new Karula Lodge were equally warm and friendly -- and it all followed from there. Karula is a new camp and the architecture is stunning. The modern glass and wood structures were 100% harmonious with the African bush, the new tented accommodation was impressive and we were especially thrilled with the outdoor shower, which was an experience unto itself. The food ... well that was an experience too. The quality of the baked goods (croissants, cookies (or in S.A. biscuits), rusks (like biscotti) and the soups, entrees, desserts were ... well I must use the word again ... "stunning." Chef Amanda and her team would do any 5 star restaurant in the world proud. Even the coffee was the most delicious I have ever tasted. All this was just the background setting for the truly fabulous experience of being with our ranger Paul, and tracker, Colin. With Kobus of Buffalo Camp, we'd already been up close and personal with the elephants, followed 2 lionesses through the bush at night, seen the rhinos with a clear, unobstructed view, watched 2 other lionesses at a buffalo kill, plus we'd had a male lion saunter casually toward us and then followed him through the bush, watching him chase some kudu, so what more could we expect? Paul's dedication and experience, and Colin's tracking skills, ensured that there was more. With game viewing, it is not just what you see that counts -- it is also the quality and the atmosphere -- and the build up. Since we hadn't seen leopard yet, this was clearly the desirable sighting. Our first drive with Paul saw him pull out all the stops to find us a leopard. We did see fresh spoor ... and then nothing. That night we had to 'make do' with 2 honey badgers (extremely rare sighting), an african civet cat (also rare) and watching a 'nagapie' make the most incredible bounding leaps from tree to tree. Driving with Paul was ultra exciting because of his commitment to giving his visitors unique viewing experiences. By the end of the next day we were replete with more lioness sightings, hearing the roars of the male lion that we had been tracking all afternoon during sundowners (and then seeing him) and other assorted big game scenes. We weren't even sure that we should tempt fate by going on a final drive, since we were already so happy and satisfied. But that last morning, Paul's patience and Colin's skill were rewarded. News of a leopard at an impala kill came over the radio and we made our way into a previously unvisited part of Kapama. On the way to the leopard sighting we saw 2 rhino, a lioness with 3 cubs, and a tawny eagle. The leopard had become skittish and left the kill. Through sheer skill, Colin and Paul "found" her again, and our clear, but fleeting sighting of her was a tribute to their combined experience. On the way back to camp, my final desire was fulfilled when a Marshall Eagle in flight flew over us, then alighted on a tree, giving us a final crowning moment to the most fabulous game viewing adventure we have ever enjoyed.