We took the train from Colombo to Kandy with all of our luggage. Go to booth 17 and book for the first class to make it easy - a whole £5 each for an approx 3 hour journey. The seats reclined and moved apart from the one next to them to give more space. Very helpful chaps serving mugs of tea and pastries. With free wi-fi and a film! our train didn't have the observation car sadly. There are separate toilets on the platform for "foreigners", but the loo on the train was fine. I didn't see anyone on the roof of any trains, but plenty hanging out of open doors! If you can remember diesel trains being shunted up the line to change direction, this station will bring back memories. Pettah market is opposite, and there's a clothing market next door.

When we visited Sri Lanka, this train station was a bit of a hub for us. We had to make several stops, and one departure through this train station, and each time we commuted it was a learning experience. The first thing we learned was don't trust anybody when it came to where your train was leaving, sometimes not even your ticket. The only people that seemed to know which platform our train was leaving was a group of def people that would help you find your train, and help with your bags, then demand a large tip.

Cleanliness was also a second thought in this station, it was so bad that I didn't dare use the bathrooms from the smell alone. There also isn't much as far as places to get snacks or a meal if you're transferring. Best to go outside and enjoy some of the street kiosks if you can instead. Security was also pretty non-existent, unless you're a traveler. It seems that if you have a bag, a ticket, and look confused security will stop and make sure you're not breaking into the station. However if you're a random person selling something, a scam artist, illegal cab driver, or any other person you're welcome to come in no questions asked.

The reason this station doesn't get a completely poor review is that it's a pretty nice building. Under the layers of dust it's pretty interesting. I took a few pictures there that really are spectacular. Notionally you'll need a train ticket to take these pictures, but if you don't have a ticket, security might just let you through anyways.