It seems puzzling that in Auckland, the world's biggest Polynesian city, there has never been a real restaurant dedicated to Pacific food. Menus often refer to "Pacific rim" cuisine, referring to Southeast Asian, Japanese or Latino influences, but that "rim" makes it plain that they are staying away from the vast ocean in the middle. The room is a bit cold and stark for my liking and for the vibe the food creates: some greenery and colour wouldn't go amiss, but the menu that came out of Bertrand Jang's kitchen delivered tastes that sang of the South Seas.
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