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“Good execution, sadly ingredients lacking basic flavour”
Review of Marjolaine

Marjolaine
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Ranked #914 of 1,838 Restaurants in Geneva
Description: Le 49 Rhône (formerly Bavaria since 1912), is a legendary Geneva restaurant whose listed décor takes us back to the atmosphere of the great brasseries or trattorias of the early twentieth century. It is in this majestic setting, adorned with old posters oak panelling and high ceilings, that Philippe Chevrier wanted to revive the restaurant by inspiring it with vibrant cuisine with a Mediterranean touch. Chef Francesco Tedesco and his team suggest their best specialities such as seared octopus with mashed vitelotte potatoes, the sea bass carpaccio with artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes and avocado flavoured with basil, the home-made ravioli “Del plin” stuffed with “Castelmagno” cheese with sage butter or even the famous bollito misto with Cremona mustard…
Restaurant details
Description: Le 49 Rhône (formerly Bavaria since 1912), is a legendary Geneva restaurant whose listed décor takes us back to the atmosphere of the great brasseries or trattorias of the early twentieth century. It is in this majestic setting, adorned with old posters oak panelling and high ceilings, that Philippe Chevrier wanted to revive the restaurant by inspiring it with vibrant cuisine with a Mediterranean touch. Chef Francesco Tedesco and his team suggest their best specialities such as seared octopus with mashed vitelotte potatoes, the sea bass carpaccio with artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes and avocado flavoured with basil, the home-made ravioli “Del plin” stuffed with “Castelmagno” cheese with sage butter or even the famous bollito misto with Cremona mustard…
Reviewed 6 April 2018

What attracted me at first was the menu – with this kind of food, the quality of the raw ingredients is key, otherwise it just doesn’t work, however well it’s executed. Sadly, I found this to be the case. A new project of Philippe Chevrier, with an experimented Chef leading the kitchen, a historic setting (former Relais de l’Entrecote) on Rue du Rhone, and a fresh menu with reasonable prices, this was definitely worth a try. Tripadvisor reviews are tricky and often polarised, so I will try to be as objective as possible.

SETTING: the cadre is beautiful, and the restaurant itself has a lot of history and charm. If you ask for a table right at the back, you will see the flowered clock. At the front, and you will be on rue du Rhone. Noise levels can get high, and tables are very close together, especially the ones with a “banquette” by the wall. The front room seems more spacious.

FOOD: Week-days lunchtime menu is CHF26 for starter, main and coffee.
Dinner is à la carte, and the carte had me drooling when I read it. The first thing to clarify is that, with the exception of the garden vegetables, which were completely overcooked, the food was cooked perfectly, and portion sizes for the mains were good. Pasta was al dente, the vongole were soft, with just the right amount of sauce, and the fritto was juicy and tender, and not too greasy. The extraordinary thing which was lacking was the actual flavour of the main ingredients – The pasta did not have that sea-fresh smell it should have, the vegetables were overcooked and tasted of butter. With this kind of cuisine, you cannot compromise with the quality of your main ingredients, or sadly, it just misses that freshness and comfort. I did not seem to see any of the provenance of the ingredients of the menu, but I may have missed it. I know however I would like to know where my burrata and your meat come from (country, region, producer), to bask in the full effect of the “cuisine du soleil”, as Morjolaine describes itself.

WINE: Disappointment on the wine recommendations – the website seems to suggest that the Maitre d’hotel will recommend wines. This may be true if you are ordering a bottle. If you are going by the glass the selection is very limited, and your waiter will describe your possible selections in the usual terms of “fruity”, “un vin plutot facile”, etc… which even I, who drinks almost no wine, know means nothing. We want to know about who makes these wines, what makes them special, and why they are on your wine list, and why you are recommending them.

SERVICE: The staff was very courteous and pleasant. We had read reviews about long waiting times for plates to arrive but this was not the case (but we did dine early, and the restaurant was not full at the time).

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2  Thank ground_otter
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC
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5 - 9 of 44 reviews

Reviewed 27 March 2018

A group of us had dinner there last week. It started badly when we asked to add two more people on the end of our table and the waiter told us it wasn't possible. Very strange since the restaurant was mostly empty. From there it continued down hill. Terrible service, food was generally poor and none of our party will ever go back. Shame they did away with Rhone 49.

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1  Thank Andyw_11
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC
Reviewed 21 March 2018

The best thing that could happen here is a return to Rhone 49 and the old ways. Service is abysmal and food not much better. Won't be back.

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Thank Sam E
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC
Reviewed 3 March 2018 via mobile

The Chevrier way to do things is apparent.
Its full for lunch and the food is good brasserie standart. The Vitelo tonato is very good and so are the plin ravioli. Service is mostly italian and its good, must reserve.
Will go back

Thank Olivier M
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC
Reviewed 20 February 2018 via mobile

Blant dinner. Not much taste. Average service. Nothing special but rather expensive. Fortunately not much has changed inside. P. Chevrier should make a full review before it becomes a flop. Used to better with him. Not difficult I have to saying

2  Thank Alain-Geneva
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

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