We made a special trip to paris with the specific intent of going to L'astrance recently.
~ Getting a reservation ~
Contrary to a lot of reviews on the internet, getting a booking was far from impossible. I called 2-3 minutes before opening on the first business day the month before. I got through immediately and found suitable dates on both lunch and dinner for the two days we wanted. Charlotte was very helpful and confirmed the booking.
~ Location ~
Located in trocadero in a quiet street where a bistro used to be.
~ Review ~
~ Food ~
We opted for the 7 course astrance menu with the matching wines. The food was exceptional, fresh and complex. I won't write a dish by dish review as the menu changes but will give an overview.
The food would best be described as a fusion of French and Asian. Barbot's (head chef) travels are evident in many dishes, with strong influences from both japanese and south east asian cuisine. Both subtle and complex flavour combinations feature throughout, with a pursuit of perfection that is reminisicent of Japanese Kaiseki. The flavours are rarely dominating but are well balanced. The lightness Barbot's work is achieved by fresh ingredients and a shift away from the heavy creams and butters of French cooking. The meal is nonetheless at its core french.
The matching wines were phenomenal, even to us as fairly uneducated wine drinkers. The mix of food and wine on the palate was generally remarkable and provided us with new insight on how certain wine varieties may combine with certain flavours.
I do however believe that some people will be disappointed with the menu because it doesn't represent a true reflection of a traditional French three michelin experience.
~ Service ~
The service is playful and unconventional. Its a mostly casual affair, unpretentious and relaxed. The service is mostly on point, but don't expect what one would normally associate with a three star experience. There's no silver cutlery, nor are the staff dressed impeccably. Instead the staff are more likely to play 'guess the dish' games with patrons. Think a warm and cosy house, not a mansion with chandeliers.
~ Decor ~
Not much to write home about. You'll see photos other people have posted. It's modern but again casual. There's a good amount of space throughout. Don't expect chandeliers or gilded wallpaper.
OVERALL IMPRESSION
L'astrance isn't everyones cup of tea. It's just not your traditional idea of 3 star michelin. As exceptional and remarkable as the food was for my palate, I also completely understand why some people will not enjoy this place. There are flavour combinations that some will simply dismiss or subtlety that others may not appreciate. There's also a casualness in the service and decor that otherwise will simply criticise as not worthy of three stars. I can certainly understand that perspective.
For me personally, L'astrance is the closest to perfection in food i have experienced out of many 3 star experiences. For that alone, i will always fondly remember our visit.