Yes, it is really hyped up and a thriving market for tours to the park in Salento. There is only one way to get there from Salento, which is on the “Willy” Jeeps that wait in the plaza. They pack a dozen people in these jeeps so it can get crowded.
After a ride to a paved road, you arrive at the main are where you will find a restaurant, coffee shop and guides if you want to do the park on horseback. The price for horseback was not too bad for a few hours.
We opted to hike it as I feel that you can see and experience the place better. The day was partly cloudy which gave it a mystic feel and actually a nice break from the sun.
The cocora is actually a private property and you do pay a 3,000 COP fee up the trail. The trail is a nice gradual climb before heading up further. The trail does continue for a fair distance of about 70km. We only did a few hours to see the valley.
We found a lovely overlook and sat there for awhile, taking in feel of the place.