I have already tried to post a long report but lost it, so in a nutshell......
I stayed at the Riad Amiris which was super. Great service, nice rooms, although our particular bathroom needed a refurb (see review). Great position just round the corner from Jmaa El Fna. Had some amazing massages every day. Would go again.
Explored virtually all the different areas of the medina and a little of the new town.
People were friendly overall and a smile with a firm no usually stopped unwanted attention. Considering it was Ramadan people were generally in good spirits and very forgiving of tourists eating and drinking.
We ate in Dar Zallij, Jardins de Bala, Tanjia and a few cafes for snacks and drinks. Zallij was a beautiful restaurant with floating candles, discreet musician, superb service but the food wasn't that spectaular which made it a bit overpriced. The tagine was bland. Hence the Bala was great because it was an Indian meal cooked to preferred spice heat. This was good value and a spectaular setting on a roof top.
The Tanjia was the worst experience. The service was appalling. None of the waiters seem to know what they were supposed to be doing. We had reserved a particular table at lunchtime which was given to someone else before we arrived. We were given a table at the back which was hot and eventually moved to a table front of terrace. We then waited an hour for a drink and starter! We had the degustacion menu which was very average and overpriced. Wouldn't recommend this place at all.
Overall, our experience of the food was disappointing, maybe we didn't go to the right places. We are adventurous with what we eat and it doesn't have to be posh nosh but we do expect tasty well cooked food (for which we don't mind paying). Maybe it's our tastebuds expecting spicy foods given all the lovely fresh herbs and spices for sale.
The square and souks were wonderful to walk around at all times of day and night (we didn't feel threatened once) and it was lovely to get off the beaten track and interact with local people going about their daily routines. We particularly enjoyed seeing the artisans at work making lanterns, mosaics and dying materials. When we weren't sure which direction to head, the locals were more than helpful at pointing you in the right direction and for a few coins would willingly take you if you didn't want to be independent. Nobody was over pushy in trying to beg or sell but Iam used to developing countries having lived in Kenya, Fiji, Vanuatu and Mongolia. So these techniques were no great surprise. Let's face it they have to survive and as I have often said, 'I live to eat' and they 'eat to live'!
We enjoyed Marrakesh very much and would return except for the fact there are so many other places in the world to see first. However, we will be recommending it.