We're now back from our trip to Malta and Italy. Thank you to all of you who answered questions or offered tips. We absolutely fell in love with Malta and are talking about going back next year because a few days just wasn't long enough. We loved the people--everyone we met was helpful. We did make it to the hypogeum and we have to admit it was beyond words. What a special place it is and how very fortunate we are to have seen it. We were enamored with Valletta and should have stayed there as opposed to St. Julien's. St. Julien's was nice and our hotel was great but Valletta is for those who want to wander with the ghosts after all the tours have left and that is where we belonged...we couldn't get enough of it. It wouldn't have mattered that it had no nightlife or few restaurant offerings. Silema was defintely where you want to be if you want the nightlife and shopping, from what we could tell. For the first time in our travels, we took advantage of the hop/on-hop/off buses and it was the best decision we could have made on such a short time schedule. We saw much more of Malta and the various sites than we would have otherwise. We'll go back. Malta has stolen a little piece of our hearts!!