You can tell a lot about a town from its meat pies. A good pie should fill the hand, heavy, pendulous, promising... but weight alone won’t tell you if yours is from a good bakery. The entire crust should be soft to the touch and...golden brown, no burned spots. Take a bite: there should be, simultaneously, the flavour of rich meat and the exquisite agony of burning tongue. Look at the filling, it should be bound together, oozing like lava from a volcano. No runny gravy. Now about the pies in Holbrook …I think I’ve had better.More