Tawaraya Ryokan
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About
Welcome to Tawaraya Ryokan, your Nakagyo “home away from home.” Tawaraya Ryokan aims to make your visit as relaxing and enjoyable as possible, which is why so many guests continue to come back year after year.
Close to some of Nakagyo's most popular landmarks, such as Sacra - Former Fudo Chokin Bank Kyoto Branch (0.1 mi) and Yata Jijoson (0.1 mi), Tawaraya Ryokan is a great destination for tourists.
As your “home away from home,” the ryokan rooms offer a refrigerator and air conditioning, and getting online is easy, with free wifi available.
Guests have access to room service while staying at Tawaraya Ryokan. In addition, Tawaraya Ryokan offers a hot tub and free breakfast, which will help make your Nakagyo trip additionally gratifying.
While you’re here, be sure to check out some of the seafood restaurants, including Kani Douraku Kyoto Main Store, Sushi Kaneko, and Nigiri Goemon, all of which are a short distance from Tawaraya Ryokan.
There is no shortage of things to do in the area, and there are several great attractions that are within walking distance of Tawaraya Ryokan, including Nijo Castle (0.9 mi), Pontocho (0.5 mi), and The Museum of Kyoto (0.2 mi).
Tawaraya Ryokan puts the best of Nakagyo at your fingertips, making your stay both relaxing and enjoyable.
Location
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We stayed in "Shorai" on the ground floor, a simple room with a peaceful garden view. We especially appreciated the horigotatsu (hole in the floor below the table), which made sitting at the dining table immensely more comfortable. I don't believe all the rooms have this.
The meals were exquisite, very top quality food and presentation. We enjoyed a large kaiseki dinner that was traditional and delicious. For breakfast. I chose the Japanese breakfast, which was massive... and my daughter chose the Western breakfast, which she was very happy with. Our room attendant Sayo even brought a toaster to ensure the toast was fresh and perfectly toasted.
The turndown service was impressive... Sayo transformed our room into a cozy cocoon perfect for sleeping. She drew the curtains and put up a screen, then set out our bedding.
Sayo spoke some English, but English was not fluently spoken by the majority of the staff. However, it was not difficult to communicate with them, and they went out of their way to answer questions and assist.
This ryokan may seem fairly pricey, but is actually reasonable, considering the quality of the facility, service and food. It is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
A wooden tub with perfectly heated water awaits, after which you don your yakuta and relax with your zen garden view before the most amazing dinner of your life is served in 8 courses over a relaxing 2 hours. There is nowhere to be, and nowhere else you will want to be. It’s like a step back in time.
After dinner, your futons are made up for you, you choose whether you’ll have a Japanese or Western-style breakfast in the morning, and select the time it is served.
At check-out, the staff make sure you are safely in your taxi (the older woman who took care of us even put her arm around me, held my hand, and escorted me safely across the street to our Uber.) I had to use google translate to tell her that she took better care of us than even our own mothers, which made her laugh.
This place is difficult to book, and if you speak no Japanese it can be a bit challenging to communicate, but everyone at Tawaraya does their utmost to make you feel like an honored guest.
It’s unparalleled. Well worth the cost.
Granted, the staff were excellent and hospitality and service were above reproach, but the inn itself was tired-looking and run-down, without any kind of charm or atmosphere. The room was small by ryokan standards, very drab with none of the usual charming decorative touches you find in other ryokans. It even lacked the traditional recess with scroll and flowers found everywhere else. The bathroom and the coffin-like "onsen" were also very small compared to others, and the amenities were of the small sample kind found in business hotels.
The exorbitant price did not even include dinner, which could be had after coughing up another 300 dollars per person.
Travelers who waxed euphoric about this place have clearly not stayed in other traditional ryokans. This place is resting on the laurels it might once have had, and it's time to put the word out that it in no way deserves its reputation. It's a rip-off, plain and simple!!!
Sometimes old is....well, old. And I truly don't care that Marlon Brando graced our tatami mat. As well, the difficulty securing a reservation at Tawaraya and the crazy high price adds allure that, for us, was not matched by the experience.
I get the sense that many ryokans do not like westerners as guests because we just don't "get" the experience. Maybe that is true, but I can't zen out when I am physically uncomfortable. And was I ever.
ROOM
We had a two room suite that could have really used a refresh. The paint was chipping on the door and things looked old and in need of repair. Tatami has a distinctive odor that one may or may not like. There was pretty much no way for us to get comfortable while just hanging around. There was one smallish chair in a corner and
we took turns using it. Otherwise, is was sitting on tatami or on a very low chair with feet in a pit. If you are at all stiff or not 100% spry, it can be difficult.
The "bath" was a very old wooden tub and the bathroom in general was tired.
There was free internet, which we didn't use as well as a TV on a shelf on the floor - didn't use that, either, as the viewing angle would have been challenging.
Otherwise, the room has a small closet, a small desk (foot in pit set up) a dining table
and a lovely small garden outside. Minimalist, as is to be expected, but would have preferred fresh minimalism.
The bed is put out during dinner and we found it more comfortable than expected.
Walls are thin, so we could hear some of the comings and going of our neighbor, but it
wasn't a problem. Could be, with noisy folks, however.
LOCATION
In a word: fantastic. Right in town on a quiet street.
CHECK IN
I was disappointed at the lack of information on arrival. There are many rituals and rules involved in a ryokan stay and it would have been gracious if someone had explained the drill to us - how to use the bath, how to wear a yukata, meal details, etc.
I do know some of the above, so it wasn't a problem for us, but a more complete greeting would have been appreciated. Failing that, an up to date, description in English would have been nice, rather than the 1995 review on offer.
After the fact, I learned that a massage is a nice added feel service. It wasn't mentioned to us, which was a disappointment.
MEALS
We had a kaiseki dinner included - fine and some of the dishes were exquisite both in
taste and presentation - but not world class. Breakfast was pleasant, with a choice of Japanese or Western. And it IS fun to eat meals while wearing robes.
DEPARTURE
We were left with the very strong sense that their priority was knowing when we were leaving. Check out was at 11 AM, so we decided to take an early walk and then freshen up and leave at 11. When we returned at 10 AM, our luggage was waiting for us in the lobby and they were clearly eager to send us on our way. We asked for it to be moved back to the room, which was already cleaned and set up for the next guest. While it wasn't a big deal, it felt anything but hospitable.
OVERALL COMMENTS
We are happy that we stayed in a ryokan, and the top of the heap, in particular. However, for those wanting the experience, I don't think spending the money for Tarawaya is necessary, as other ryokans can provide a similar stay at a lower cost.
I would NEVER stay here while jet lagged. If one is waking up at odd hours, there isn't an easy way to get comfortable, room service, food, etc. No Nespresso machine, either! I'd have snacks on hand for such a situation.
We felt kind of trapped, waiting for sunrise to go out or for meals, etc.
So, in conclusion, we learned we are not ryokan people. Still, we are happy to have had the experience.
I came to Japan around 25 times over the last 20 years, so I am very much familiar with outstanding Onsen and Ryokan places all over Japan.
Tawaraya was now on the list and what great expectations we had.
The price is expensive, but compared to a lot of ryokans and hotels we have stayed not crazy. I actually liked the faded and out of date charm of the property. The food, supposed to be the stand out feature of Tawaraya was good, but not great, standard Kyoto Kaiseki without any surprises. They have unbelievably only two Sake options ( warm and cold ) both their " house brand ". And boy, the Tawaraya branding is everywhere, including the toiletries.
Be aware that you get different food and welcoming snacks, depending on your room, as I have witnessed when observing the tablets being carried out of the kitchen.
The people are friendly but one can sense, that they would rather have Japanese guests as their customers, making the interaction all the time a little awkward.
Our host for the dinner was a very demure and shy girl.
Japanese friends have stayed, who were treated in a completely different manner, with much more options like massages and a general warmer welcoming.
What made the experience sour though, was us asking on the day of check in for making it possible to arrange a visit to a Kyoto temple, where you need a recommendation beforehand. We thought, certainly Tawaraya is the place to ask. We got as an answer that they cannot help us with this request. Fair enough.
But what really made us sad was the next day before check out, we asked again for a favour. We had not booked for the night and wanted to stay at a small ryokan out of town. Nobody spoke English there when we called, so we asked Tawaraya, if they can be so kind to call and ask availability. The answer served with a smile was : " THIS IS IMPOSSIBLE ".
The setting of the ryokan is very historic. You can tell the design is from a long time ago. But the inside is very comfortable. It is also sparkling clean.
All the rooms are different. Although the sizes are similar, the decor and arrangement of furniture are different in each room. The four of us went and we stayed in two different rooms. We had a traditional Kaiseki dinner in my room and a traditional Japanese breakfast in my friends' room. The meals were served the traditional Japanese way and the service was great. They can speak basic English but they have a bit of difficulty explaining the different dish and ingredients in English. I speak a little Japanese so I can appreciate more the arts behind the Kaiseki dinner.
There is a library inside the Ryokan. It contains a lot of historical literatures about the ryokan.
The location of this ryokan is right in downtown Kyoto, amongst other high rises. But you won't hear the busy and bustling city noise inside the ryokan. It's a different world inside.
We would definitely return the next time we're in Kyoto, or in the Kansai area. The dinner alone is worth the money we spent in the stay.
"Make a reservation by fax and enjoy your stay as each room is unique and offers its own truely beautiful character."Read full review
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