Review of St John’s Island, Singapore
Sunday – all day - and where better to explore ‘new’ country than on one of those ‘outer-islands’ off the south coast of the ‘mainland’. This was an easy option and so was getting to our destination (Grab Taxis are as close as your cell phone). Half of our group had already been there, and the descriptions of the beaches and vegetation had remained – both redeveloped in recent years and, too, the historical significance of these islands to the original inhabitants and to the colonial administration alike - were sufficient attraction. There’s also that unique view of the coastline and the ships at anchor when seen from the ferry boats.
All was going well until we set foot on the island …. it was then that the rain set in; and it rained non-stop for a good three hours – the best part of the day. Just to make sure we would enjoy the beaches the winds got up to match the rain … and they were cold.
That all said, we donned our rain gear, opened the umbrellas and trudged the 1.6 km track around the edge of St John’s Island, across the causeway between St. John’s and the neighbouring Lazarus Island heading for the classic (and man-improved) ‘South Sea Island beach’ to the east of the island. There’s also a line of camping sites behind this shoreline somewhere in the dense green foliage. There was nobody camping. There were, however, wet-looking people in groups/families sheltering beneath the trees. There were, perhaps, >50 people actually in the sea – where it was a deal warmer. We accepted an hour catching the drips beneath the trees and slowly getting wetter before heading for the picnic shelter at the far end of the beach by the high masonry groyne (which was clearly breaking up from the impact of the sea). At least 20 other people had already done much the same - many of whom had changed and headed back into the water. Half our group did the same. It was, however, a reasonable place to sit and eat lunch; and we enjoyed talking with a couple of family groups whom we had joined out-of-the-rain – foreigners all.
Sure, looking back, we could have figured the weather from the grey nature of the sky when we set out that morning, but we only had the one-non-working-day available. Monday meant work and school. What to do? We took our chances … and enjoyed the good bits.
And, for the two of us new to this small off-shore island, this included the the ferry rides out and return to the terminal at Marine South Pier. This is where you buy the ferry tickets. Prices varied around SS$20/adult. Sure, we’d all been to the terminal before (there’s an MRT station; it’s where you find the Singapore Maritime Gallery and the deck on the roof provides those views across the straits to Indonesia and the estimated 60 freight ships waiting their turn to access Singapore port).
And, that other aspect of travelling off-shore close to the commercial centre is the great skyline view of the images of a modern seaboard city – high rise buildings that stand proud above Strait’s View about a kilometre from the shoreline. The reality of the view, however, is one of change that continues to impact upon this part of the island. An estimated 5km2 land beneath the current container port to the west of the city is scheduled for central city expansion (as the new Tuas Freight Port >30 km further west takes precedence). Developments for those time travellers from the 22nd century who are already here amongst us? Of course.
But, I digress.
Check out St John’s Island and you quickly realise that there are three small islands grouped together of which St. John’s is/was the original focal point. A causeway now links St. John’s Island with Lazarus Island which, given the fragmented nature of the north of the island, now includes what was once Seringat Island – joined to Lazarus Island with sea dredged in-fill. Offshore to the central islands there’s the smaller Kusu Island – highlighted as the tortoise/turtle island. These – together with two other local islands – are known as the Marine Park Islands.
The importance of these islands to the earlier administration came from their proximity to the expanding colonial settlement 6 km across the straits. The islands once housed, in turn, quarantine centre, hospitals, drug rehabilitation, refugees and aquaculture R&D. Nowadays there are no people living full-time on the islands; the islands have become a sanctuary of peace, quiet, solitude and change a few minutes away from the city centre (assuming that you time your visit with skill/luck).
And, that lasting image of a day travelling to the islands and back? The dozen or so young women (and some not so young) in all kinds of fancy/flamboyant clothing (with sometime a handful of men available) making short videoclips on their cell phones – minutes at most. It wasn’t entirely clear what they were doing - posing, posturing and/or dancing in front of a friend who was filming them on the raised deck of the ferry boat – in front of the rest of us; until someone enlightened us – the uninitiated – with that key word pair: ‘TikTok’. Amazing and not a little sad - this urge to be ‘famous for 15 minutes.’
In summary then … the ride across to the islands in the straits comes highly recommended. Take time out to explore the islands – easy, comfortable, compact and rewarding. Oh, and a last thought. Make sure that you DON’T need a latrine once you’ve left the mainland (or, at the very least, the ferry boat or the jetty on St. Michael’s). It’s a real hike back from Lazarus Island (or the bush) for those caught out.
Peter Steele
05June2023