State Railway of Thailand (SRT)
Bangkok
Overnight Sleeper Trains In First Class Carriages On CNR & Thai Older Rolling Stock.
Having taken a few overnight sleeper trains between Bangkok & Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, Hat Yai & Hua-Hin I feel able to confidently confirm the following train experiences as the norm & constantly in play. Some aspects great, others not so good!
May I preface the below by stating travelling first class sleeper train in Thailand is by & large a wonderful, fulfilling & easy modality of travel around the country. Still recommended but one must book carefully & knowledgeably!
When travelling on the more modern, newer & faster CNR (Chinese National Railway) carriages in first class, towed by the more powerful diesel powered engines like on the Special Express No. 32 train from Hat Yai Junction to Bangkok & the CNR Express, Rapid newer CNR Express trains to & from Chiang Mai / Rai etc? Well BEWARE of the choking diesel fumes that quite literally pour into the luxurious FIRST CLASS sleeping cabins on the first class carriage!
Asphyxiation is NOT an understatement! Not by any means as the toxic diesel fumes are sucked into that leading first class carriage directly from the earnestly working engines coupled in front of the lead luxury carriage!
This ONLY happens on the more modern CNR Express / Rapid train journeys. Never occurs on the older, slower Thai Railway rolling stock! Not least as the first class sleeper carriage on the older trains is at the rear of the long train.
But do be aware that not only is there one temperature of ice-cold air pouring into one’s sleeper cabin (very nice if in the hot season & gratefully appreciated) but the poisonous choking diesel fumes also sucked into each compartment are less than desirable!
Now to be more accurate the main first class cabins affected are the front 4 double cabins of the first 1st class carriage ONLY! So one is perfectly safe from being fumigated if in the rear two thirds of that leading first class carriage.
So make damned sure you select a cabin towards the rear of that first class carriage & NOT the first 4 double cabins on that first class carriage.
That little problem aside, I highly recommend the safe, comfortable, air conditioned, rolling stock with usual ambient train carriage, engine, railway line noises, sounds, disturbances along with lolling, rocking, rolling & general locomotion in motion that virtually every train delivers!
The staff, security, conductors, maids, stewards & co’ are for the most part positively enchanting & most entertaining, engaging & always happy to help, serve & assist where required.
Top tips are:
1. Bring your own food, snacks, meals, beverages & drinks with you! What is served up in the dining car is just about fit for a developing nation’s army, at best.
2. Bring some warm sleeper clothes or a good polar-tech blanket as the AC operates at full-bore with no temperature control above zero. That’s great in the hot steamy summers, not so good during monsoon / cold season.
3. Ablutions are average at best but manageable, that said I try not to need to have to go during my 12-15 hour journeys.
4. Ear plugs or white noise headset are pluses to soften the usual noises experienced on overnight railway travel.
5. Upper bunks are my preference which is good because the lower bunks all get snapped up first in both first & second class carriages.
6. Choosing the older slower Thai rolling stock over the newer faster modern Chinese manufactured carriages makes for a more comfortable, softer bed, journey & a fresher one ref no fumes being sucked into the rear placed first class carriage/s.
7. Do not expect a Japanese Bullet train experience, be ready to settle back into a leisurely old school enjoyable train journey with all the charm of the Orient.
8. Purchase your tickets directly from D-Ticket Thai State Railways (I am prohibited from giving you the URL) who are far quicker, better, safer & more accurate than using third party websites or providers who take up to 72 hours to revert with a successful purchase or a rejected attempt. Or buy direct at the relevant stations.
Highly recommend but be aware of the issues with air pollution in the front 4 double cabins of any first class carriage on any CNR Express / Rapid overnight train.
Enjoy your experience & perfectly good night’s sleep.