It was my second visit, so I expected to spend a couple of hours and head to the National Portrait Gallery, but I guess the more you read about the horrors of the Holocaust, the more you want to see the atrocities with your own eyes, the more you want to listen to the survivors, the more you want to learn from the documents and artifacts from that terrible time. So I spent five hours… I think I know quite a bit about the Holocaust after reading countless books, visiting Auschwitz, Dachau, Yad Vashem, the Shoah Memorial in Paris, the Jewish Ghetto and Museum in Rome, Museum of Jewish History in NYC, Anne Frank’s House in Amsterdam, but United States Holocaust Memorial Museum is the place where you really see the whole picture of the most horrific event in the history of the mankind.
The visit starts on the fourth floor presenting the story of Nazism coming to power, the tragedy of the Kristallnacht (the photos of one of the most beautiful synagogues in Germany, Essen Synagogue, before and after the pogrom and its desecrated door are especially poignant), the surrender of Austria, the Netherlands, France, the occupation of Poland, Latvia, Lithuania and eventually the invasion of Russia. Surprisingly, there were groups of really young kids, maybe 8-10 years old on this floor - their teachers taught them a great lesson of the importance of making everything possible to prevent dictatorships and absolute power. The kids were very attentive and well behaved… I felt so good looking at their happy faces of the generation for which the Holocaust is remote tragic history. I hope they will remember those who perished in the ovens of concentration camps…
The third floor is dedicated to the “Final Solution”… There were no kids on this floor…rightfully so. The atrocities of all concentration camps, hundreds of them, are presented without hiding anything… The photos and the artifacts (the shoes, the train car, the bunks, etc.) tell the story that will bring a stone to tears.
The second floor is the story of the Death March and the liberation. The photos and the documentaries are devastating… The Nuremberg Trial recordings are well known but a normal person still cannot and should not understand the “Not Guilty” pledge barked out by the defendants. The recordings of the Israel trial of Adolf Eichmann are also there… the monster didn’t change, didn’t repent, denied everything and blamed his superiors. What a familiar tune! How rightfully the Israeli court condemned him to death…and it happened in the country where death penalty doesn’t exist.
One of the most impressive displays are the stories and the names of the Righteous from all occupied countries. I read many books about these people who risked their own lives and the lives of their families every single day to save a Jew. There is no better example of courage, decency and compassion in the whole world.
The stories of the life and death in the Eastern European Ghettos, the uprising in the Warsaw Ghetto, the resistance of young Jewish fighters in the Vilna and Lodz ghettos… so much suffering and unparalleled courage…
And no words to describe the emotions in the Remembrance Hall…
I spent five hours in the museum and left totally shocked and devastated. To calm down I just went for a walk… that’s all that could be done…