This might not be the tallest or most imposing obelisk in Rome but the Obelisk of Santa Minerva is by far the most delightful.
In a whimsical design, the ancient Egyptian obelisk was placed on the back of a small, marble elephant, with a long swaying trunk and a tasselled saddlecloth.
It sits in the centre of a small piazza, outside the Church of Santa Maria della Minerva, at the back of the Pantheon.
The obelisk is a long way from home. It started life as one of a pair and dates back to the reign of pharaoh Apries (r. 589-570 BCE) in the 26th Dynasty (the other half of the pair can be seen at the front of the Pantheon).
The Roman emperor Domitian (51-96 CE) took a liking to it and had it transported back to Rome. No easy task. The giant, 5.5 metre, red granite obelisk had to be shipped across the Mediterranean, then re-erected at the Temple of Isis in Rome.
It suffered the same fate as many other obelisks in Rome. After the fall of Rome, the obelisk also fell and was buried at first by rubble and then by rising ground levels. It lay forgotten for centuries until 1655 when it was unearthed.
Pope Alexander VII had it inscribed with his family’s heraldic symbols and coats of arms and Bernini was commissioned to create the surrounding design. If putting the obelisk on the back of an elephant sounds like a quirky sort of thing, perhaps it was not so strange. At the time, elephants and other exotic animals were often given as lavish presents by foreign rulers. These included leopards, panthers, apes, rhinos, troops of monkeys and tropical birds but the most memorable was a white elephant sent to Pope Leo X (now buried under the Vatican).
This is an interesting corner of Rome, tucked around towards the back of the Pantheon. Step inside the Church of Santa Maria della Minerva and you will also see a beautiful sculpture, The Risen Christ by Michelangelo. It’s not well known, it’s free and there are no crowds.