Introduction: Growing up with National Geographic on my suburban American coffee table, tribal life always held a special fascination for me. The exotic imagery of topless women, loin-clothed men, intricate tattoos, and vibrant adornments, combined with the unique community structure and absence of modern technology, fueled my desire to explore the other side of the world and reconnect with our roots. After extensive research, my partner and I decided to book a tour with Embera Village Tours, and Shirley, the American woman who runs the website, was instrumental in arranging our visit. Booking Process and Cost Breakdown: Six settlements are situated near Panama, with the second furthest being Embera Puru and one more (further still) that doesn't accept visitors. The four closest to town can get swamped with dozens of day tourists and cruise-ship travelers. Embera Puru seemed the most authentic for us. The website displayed captivating photos of joyous children, busy villagers, and centuries-old traditions. Excited about the photographic opportunities (we’re both street photographers) and eager to immerse ourselves in tribal life, we were willing to pay the high price for this unique adventure and life-long dream. The total cost for two nights amounted to $1,300, part of that sum being an additional $240 charge ($120 per person) for visiting Embera Puru due to the ‘challenges posed by low river levels.’ We paid a deposit of $325 and settled the remaining $970 upon our arrival. It is important to note that the tour company likely retained the deposit while the remaining $970 was distributing among the guide, the tribe, and the taxi driver. We have no way of knowing how much ultimately went to the village. Arrival and Initial Impressions: Our guide, Jose, picked us up from our hotel in his small car and drove us approximately an hour and a half along roads that got increasingly worse. We eventually switched to a 4-wheel drive truck, which took us about 30 minutes to reach the river. 30 minutes after a fun walk through the mud (bring disposable shoes!), two male Embera villagers arrived in their longboats, and we embarked on our river journey. While the water levels were low in three places, the journey was smooth, leaving us questioning the justification for the extra charge. We noticed plenty of other longboats carrying people along our journey and throughout our stay. What was the cause for the high price increase?! (Silly tourist tax I guess) ;) Upon arrival at the village, we realized that the experience was about to diverge wildly from our expectations. There was no welcome or anything. I wasn’t expecting a mai Thai, a lei place around our necks or Mr. Roarke saying ‘welcome, welcome’ - but we were just meekly marched up from the rocky beach and shown our accommodation with no fanfare. The villagers' houses, built on stilts approximately three meters high, surrounded us. As tourists, our accommodation consisted of a flat platform with a thatched roof adjacent to the the meeting hall (which was as impressive as our lodgings were unimpressive) . From our vantage point, we could see three other huts. However, as a hint to future travelers - don’t linger on the sight of the three huts as you will soon discover it will encompass your only visual stimulation throughout your stay. Living in a Fishbowl: Most of the huts in the village had a porch with a kitchen (sand stove) area attached, followed by a walled-off living area for the families. Colorful fabric hung in various places, adding aesthetic appeal and perhaps providing privacy. Unfortunately, we did not have such luxuries. Instead, we spent our time on a raised platform without any semblance of privacy. Strangely, the initial concern about exploiting the tribe faded, and we began to feel like the animals in a zoo. At any time, the villagers could look out from their private huts and observe the foreigners, turning our experience into a performance on a theater stage. Limited Interaction and Activities: Shortly after our arrival, the village leader greeted us, and a woman showcased the tribe's handicraft abilities, answering our questions about tattoo washes and how she made the handicrafts. However, these interactions marked the extent of our engagement with the villagers. For the remainder of our stay, we were left largely to ourselves, with meals being prepared for us three times a day. This lack of interaction proved to be our least favorite aspect of the experience. Contrary to the photos on the website, depicting joyful children playing and a link suggesting items to bring for them, we found ourselves with little opportunity to interact, play, or take photographs. We had brought bags of individually wrapped candies, a frisbee, balls, a deflated soccer ball, balloons, bubble wands, and other toys, envisioning a vibrant exchange with the children. However, our hopes were pretty much hammered as we were taken to the schoolhouse later in the day to drop off our gifts and then promptly ushered out. We never saw the children again. The village offered minimal attractions. We could ascend a hill for a view of the schoolhouse or take a 20-meter stroll to the river. During long stretches of six hours, we would be fortunate to spot two villagers in the distance or observe a child descending and ascending a ladder. Despite the village supposedly comprising 28 houses and a population of 128, we encountered fewer than 10 houses and a mere fraction of the population - and only when it came time to sell us goods. Questionable Authenticity: The village's authenticity turned out to be a mix of traditional and modern elements. While a schoolhouse existed, with mandatory attendance for children and a teacher sent from the city on weekdays, it hardly resembled a traditional tribal education. Moreover, electricity had infiltrated the village to varying degrees. Some parts of the village were connected by electric cables spanning the river, while others relied on flashlights for illumination. One house on the left was even full lit up with electricity! There was a double freezer for the tribe. Although we enjoyed observing the preparation of our meals, the absence of visible crops or livestock, except for banana, lime, and mango trees, raised suspicions that the village may have become reliant on their weekly grocery store trips. Additionally, the vibrant fabric that adorned the village was sourced from China, raising doubts about its authenticity. Although our guide claimed that the villagers had designed the fabric, its distinct Asian motifs, such as lotus flowers and birthday cake designs, seemed incongruous with the rainforest environment. We couldn't help but question the validity of these claims - but who knows. We waited all day, and nothing happened, darkness fell and we had 12hr to swing in the hammock or take turns laying on a mattress covered in plastic (which made it very hot). There were no lights and that’s fine, this is what we came for. I’m not bemoaning the lack of comforts - in part this very long night was our favorite part of the trip! In the morning we woke up at first light and were told that later the tribe would like to show us some of their handicrafts. Cool. We were both interested in any silver, beads or hand-wrought jewelry they might have made. A few hours later - inside the main hall 8 or 9 families unpacked their sacks of items and laid them out. Note - at this time being the only visitors here, there’s quite a bit of pressure to buy. No overt pressure - just the kind of pressure that comes from having 14 villagers watching you as you walk from table to table. Underwhelming Handicrafts and Souvenirs: There were a few quick dances and beating of drums, then the shopping began. Note: we both felt simply horrible for not being able to buy something from each other the tables.. We felt like we were letting them down, but the prices were just too high. I’ve often found when visiting a place that makes something - looms, shoes, carvings etc - they’re eager to show you where these things are made and show off their artisanship. This didn’t happen in the village, which increased my wariness. I asked Jose (our guide) and he assured us these were all made in the village. Cool. One table had some turtles that were carved out of nuts - the guy looked me in the eye and said ‘I carved this’ - and it was pretty cool. Another table the woman said my family makes these (wooden statues), woven bowels, bracelets etc. We ended up buying about $70 worth of stuff - a bowl ($12), a jaguar pendant ($20), bracelets ($5), fabric ($20), beads ($10). After shopping, we had a quick internal discussion and found the experience for us ended promptly at 6:30pm, when the sun set - and we were left with 12 hours in the dark, sweating and swinging in hammocks. We decided to give our second night pass and head back to the city a day early as there was nothing more to experience here. I jumped in the river (on my bucket list) then dried off - and we repeated the trip down the river (no problems and lots of boats) and back into the city (oddly totally exhausted). Sadly, the next day in the city - we perused the souvenir shop indeed we found almost every single item that was in the village - often for 50% less. That $20 Jaguar pendant that was hand carved by the villager? There were a dozen of them in many shops for $7. The hand weaved bowls? Absolutely everywhere. The hand designed fabric? Half price hanging in the shops with many of the same lotus flower. Wooden statues of animals that are guide assured us were ‘amazing and beautiful’ - were again fractions of the tribal price and omnipresent.. (sigh) Conclusion: Our visit to Embera Puru Village ultimately proved to be a disappointment. The lack of interaction with the tribe members, limited activities, and questionable authenticity left us feeling dissatisfied. If you don’t make anything in the village, that’s fine - but please don’t lie to our face. While the boat ride and the night spent in hammocks had their charm, the overall trip did not live up to our expectations. Our guide failed to provide meaningful engagement, and the tribe members appeared uninterested in interacting with us. As a result, we returned home with very few photographs, save for some shots of thatched huts, dogs, and plenty of chickens. Worth a day trip at best, and skip Embera Village Tours.

Arrived in Panama with friends and Tamara Arranged Some Tour for us. This is the most amazing tour we like most. They picked up us from our hotel in Panama City and Tamara lead us to go different places around this city. Brought us to the beautiful national park across the river. She introduced us different events, cultural activities. The whole day till night she treated us a very kind and generous. That was the best tour experience with Tamara. Tamara +50763242898

The best excursion I have been on! We learned so much about the Embera tribe! Will definitely be coming back in the future!

I love roughing it, getting out into the back country and visiting indigenous peoples in their native habitat. I've done it in other parts of Central and South America. Down rivers in a canoe or motorized skiff. Eating the native food. Learning of their customs. This edifying tour gave me all of that.

This is one of the best tours I ever took. The Embera have balanced living in a manner they lived for hundreds of years with the modern world, and love explaining the history with you. The tour picked us up, we drove for about an hour to Puerto de Corotu, on the Upper Chagres River. This is not really a port. It is a small dock for dugout canoes with outboards on a muddy riverbank. Our first stop was the cascade. The walk to the waterfall is an adventure in itself in the dry season (when we were there). Our guide was super, but he had to hold my wife’s hand most of the time to keep her balance on the slippery rocks and through the creek bed. The walk takes most people about half an hour. It took us 45 minutes each way. It is worth the time. The water temperature is comfortable, and a dip in the pool below the falls is welcome after the walk. Then on to the village, which many visitors described. I will not add to it except to say if you only like fine dining, fine art museums, and “creature comforts,” you will not like this tour. If you like learning the history of cultures, how they actually live, and experiencing a taste of it, then this is a tour you should not miss.

Lo.vely coach ride from Panama city to Charro river Up the river on motorised canoes tothe riverside village. Welcome, dancing, demonstartions lunch and free walkabout time. Lovely visit to a sort of living museum. Embera live sort of like they always did. Very good visit and a lovely thing to do Great fun

In fact, the trip consists of three parts: 1. The Indians meet you on long pies and swim along the river to their village. 2. Arriving in their village, you will get acquainted with the patriarchal way of life and watch a small dance show. 3. Then you will have a water trip up the stream ... if we knew about this beforehand ... at the end of the trip you will find a waterfall with a small lagoon where you can swim.

Natives are friendly and make great hosts! Lunch was terrific -- fresh and cooked very well. Hike around the perimeter of the village was most informative. Their ingenuity was tremendous. Trips to and from the village were on small, narrow, hand built/formed boats -- exciting. Trinkets are very nice and affordable.

We had a wonderful day at the Embera Puru Village. Although it was rainy the dugout canoe ride (which is motored not paddled) Was a lovely ride and helped us disconnect from the communities we had just driven through. We were welcomed with song and warmly welcomed by the village leader. We had a delicious lunch and tour of the village and were able to participate in song and dance with the community. My two-year-old and five-year-old loved the experience and my husband and I did as well. It was a highlight of our trip to Panama and Costa Rica. The people were open and welcoming and althoughI did wonder if they felt coerced in someway to be a part of this tourism I left with the impression that they were not. I appreciated their willingness to allow visitors in and we bought mini craft items from the people there. I hope that my impression is correct and that these people truly enjoy sharing their culture with others. It is important for all of us in today’s world to open her eyes and experience different cultures and this was a great way for my family to do that

We had a wonderful day today led by Ruben of Panama Tours, He was very knowledgeable and accommodating - actually one of the best guides we have had. The Embera Village should not be missed. Just the canoe ride to the village takes your breath away. While the walk to the waterfall is very scenic, it also requires care as you cross streams and are wet up to your knees. The information and meal provided by the Embera Tribe is exceptional as are the quality handwork that is sold at very reasonable prices. Don’t miss it and try to book it with Ruben

Went to the Katuma Embera village. It was simply joyful. Met the Headman, his grandson and family. My friend danced with them, we both got tats and had a lovely traditional meal of fish and pantecones. I loved one of the skirts worn and the lady took it off so I could buy it!

During the tour i discover the area, in the first time people visit the National Park visitor Center and aftter tthe persons visit the comunity with the waterfalls

This tour was the highlight of our trip to Panama. It was incredibly interesting, scenic and a terrific experience. Our guide from Panamazing, Gil Guardia was exceptional. His knowledge and love of his job were very apparent and he is really good at what he does. Couldn't recommend him higher. He makes the trip a true experience.

Water trip in a motorized dug-out canoe to the village is the first part of this adventure; Native Embera Villagers provided their native dance and songs; A meal of freshly caught Tilapia cooked in large iron pots pared with fresh fruits was a wonderful experience; Learning the Embera culture and talking with the Tribal Chief was a fantastic experience;

One of my favorite tours. Thought this would be "touristy" but was pleasantly surprised. The village tour was interesting and the program that was presented was very good. Would definitely recommend. My only criticism would be it would have been nice to have been told to wear our bathing suits or put on at the village because of course there was no where to change at the waterfall.