Everything to know about springtime in Prague

I'll come out and say it: Spring is the best time to visit Prague. I've lived here most of my life, and after the dark, wet winter, I can tell you the city goes absolutely crazy starting around mid-March, when the magnolia and cherry trees first flower, the forsythia bursts into bright yellow, and daffodils start poking up.

Locals rediscover their pretty parks and gardens, the restaurants start pulling tables out onto the sidewalks, and for a few short weeks (until the first summer heat wave strikes in late June), all feels right with the world. Here are some tips for how best to enjoy the city in spring.

One of the best ways to see Prague in spring is by ferry, which is part of the public transit system. The wooden boats start sailing in mid-March after being dry-docked during the cold winter months. For an inexpensive sightseeing trip, hop on the P5 line. It departs from a dock below Výtoň (near Vyšehrad), on the Old Town side, south of the city center, and travels over to the district of Smíchov on the opposite bank of the Vltava River. It’s a great way to enjoy a sunny day. Ferries depart every 20 minutes or so and accept the same tickets as a regular metro or tram ride.

Tip: If you’d like to stay on land, ride the city’s historic number 41 tram line. The above ground ride on electric tracks starts at Stromovka Park, near the Výstaviště exhibition grounds (north of the center). From here, you’ll travel via scenic Malá Strana all the way up to Prague Castle. Note you’ll need to buy a special ticket from the conductor onboard (100 Czech Koruna, about $4) .

Prague’s most beautiful greenery is kept behind locked gates from October through March. But come the first burst of magnolia blossoms around April 1, city officials finally open the doors.

Where to go: There’s a wealth of options for soaking up the city’s blooms. Some of my favorites are the lovely, terraced baroque Gardens Below Prague Castle, a must visit both for the views of the city and the flowering gardens (note that there are many levels of stairs here). Just north of the castle are the Royal Gardens, dotted with playful Renaissance buildings. There are also the historic Wallenstein Palace Gardens, with its elegant fountains and grotto, plus Vrtba Garden, a baroque paradise with some jaw-dropping vistas of Prague Castle.

Weekly outdoor farmers markets start rolling in neighborhoods around the city by early March. Of these Saturday morning markets, the biggest and best, the Náplavka market, takes place along the Vltava embankment, just below the famous Dancing House. Other good options include the market above the Náměstí Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station in the neighborhood of Vinohrady, and at Kulaťák square, above the Dejvická metro station, north of the center.

Tip: The markets are great places to pick up seasonal picnic provisions, enjoy a little street food, or simply rub elbows with what feels like the rest of the city (it’s no exaggeration to say that just about everyone in the neighborhood shows up for these).

It wouldn’t be springtime in Prague without burning a few witches. Never heard of this tradition? Let me explain: On the evening of April 30, neighborhoods around the city reenact this old pagan tradition, known in Czech as Čarodějnice. Rest assured no actual witches are harmed in the burning. Instead, people stand around big bonfires and ignite a twig witch or two in effigy. The fire is believed to ward away evil spirits and welcome in the new season.

Where to go: You’ll be able to see a witch-burning ceremony at Kampa park in the neighborhood of Malá Strana. Another good one takes place annually at Ladronka park, west of the city center.

The mood turns positively sentimental the next day, May 1. This is a public holiday, Labor Day, but it’s also known as Lover’s Day, and it’s traditionally celebrated by kissing your partner under a blossoming cherry tree (a tradition thought to grant beauty and fertility). It’s as good an excuse as any for couples to gather in beautiful Petřín Park and make out under the cherry blossoms.

Tip: Don’t forget to bring along a bouquet to lay at the statue of poet Karel Hynek Mácha, author of a romantic poem called, fittingly, "Máj" (May). By the way, feel free to partake in this tradition on any day of the year, not just May 1; any tree will do.

Prague’s annual Easter holiday market on Old Town Square gets rolling three weeks before Easter Sunday and runs through Easter Monday (a national holiday). The market’s setting is breathtaking, with historic buildings like the twin-spired Týn Church and Old Town Hall framed by colorful Easter streamers, though the market itself can be a little disappointing. The stalls here deal in mostly souvenirs, though a careful eye can still find traditional painted eggs and other Easter specialties. No matter, there's plenty of drink on hand to ease into the holiday spirit. The beverages on offer include a seasonal herb-infused green beer that pops up around Easter (but curiously not on St Patrick’s Day).

Tip: Czechs aren’t traditionally religious, but they pull out all the stops for the long Easter weekend. In addition to the markets, on Easter Monday many locals indulge in an unusual, but harmless, whipping tradition that often has visitors scratching their heads. According to tradition, boys gently whip girls on their backsides in return for a painted egg (or even a shot of homemade schnapps). Don’t panic. It’s all in good fun and meant to symbolize fertility. The practice is more common in villages than in big cities like Prague, but you’ll still find pomlázka (holiday whips), crafted from willow branches and topped with colorful Easter bunting, at shops around town.

The annual Prague Spring Music Festival comprises three weeks of excellent classical concerts in late May and early June that feature the best of local and visiting artists at venues around the city. The festival kicks off every year on May 12 at Prague’s Obecní Dům (Municipal House) with a stirring rendition of Bedřich Smetana’s “Má Vlast” (My Country), from his famous Moldau Symphony.

Tip: That performance is usually sold out months in advance, sometimes even years, but the rest of the festival is much more accessible (check the festival website for tickets). Most years you can find a simulcast of the opening concert at Kampa Park.