A weekend in Malibu: surf sessions, sunsets, and nonstop star-gazing

“No surf break, then or now, has ever presented itself as well as Malibu. Each wave rolled forth as if it had traveled halfway across the Pacific for the express purpose of gliding into this quarter-mile bit of shoreline.”

Malibu may not be the birthplace of surfing, but it sure does feel like it perfected the lifestyle.

This stretch of coast in Southern California sits within the boundaries of Los Angeles County, but feels a whole world away from the urban bustle. It’s a place where Angelenos come to escape from their daily grind, throw on a wetsuit, and to get into the lineup with cool-kid surfers.

“It's definitely an epicenter of surfing culture,” says Dylan Sohngen, the 28-year-old Beach Captain at Aqua Surf, a surf school teaching lessons in Malibu and beyond. “On any given day, you can paddle out and surf with legends as well as modern pros.”

A previous member of UCSD Surf Team, Sohngen has made the waves in Malibu his home-away-from-home. Though he’s surfed all over the world, it’s these waves, and this community, that keep pulling him back.

“What sets Malibu apart is the history and the culture,” he says. “It showcases surfing really well. Especially Surfrider Beach. It’s right off P.C.H. and a perfect wave. People can sit on the beach and watch the professionals or come learn to surf, too.”

Sohngen knows Surfrider is a fan favorite, but he encourages travelers to keep going, and delve deeper beyond this beloved spot.

“People don’t realize just how pretty Malibu really is. There’s plenty more to explore,” he says, pointing to places like Neptune’s Net, the area’s wineries, and its fish markets as ways to dive into local life.

In this edition of the Weekender, we’re sharing a few time-tested favorites as well as some spots that are worthy of a longer journey down Highway 1.

—Stacey Leasca, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

It doesn’t get more “classic Malibu” than Surfrider. The mile-long beach is also home to the Malibu Sport Fishing Pier, as well as a lovely right-hand break ideal for longboarding and trying your best to hang ten. If you prefer to just watch surfers do their thing, this is also a prime spot to lay out a blanket, stake an umbrella, and chillax with your friends and family from sunrise to sunset.

Looking to socially distance while hitting the sand? Zuma Beach is for you. The 1.8-mile beach is ultra-wide, giving you plenty of space to set up shop with a group or go solo with all your gear. Add in a little game-time action with the volleyball nets here or take your bodyboarding skills to the next level.

As far as picture-perfect Malibu beaches go, Leo has the rest beat. It’s a bit farther north, but well worth the extra drive time, as that remote location means fewer crowds both on the sand and in the water. This is also the spot for sunsets as the beach’s craggy shoreline gives a poetic backdrop to blazing skies.

Need easy-access waves? Stop in at Topanga, which is in close proximity to Santa Monica. The pebbly rock-filled beach may not be where you want to lounge for the day, but the water is ideal. The shoreline wraps around a bend, giving it a right break. Though you’ll have to walk over some rocks to get to those waves, it’s a solid spot for almost all surfing skill levels.

Pick yourself up off the sand and get into the water by paddling out alongside Sohngena. The school offers lessons for all skill levels and ages and will pick the beach that they feel is right for your aptitude in the water. You could even grab a few friends for a group lesson and a little saltwater bonding.

When bad weather wrecks your plans to get pitted, take shelter inside the Getty Museum and see some spectacular art. Here you’ll find art spanning centuries, including a hefty dose of photography. Make sure to look around the building—including the courtyard and Mediterranean gardens—which are considered works of art as well.

Head to the hills and taste the varietals by going on a Wine Safari at Saddlerock Ranch and vineyard. And no, if you spot a zebra you didn’t drink too much. The ranch is home to some rather cool wildlife including these striped beauties, water buffalo, and a very famous Giraffe named Stanley.

After party waves and wipeouts, reset at Malibu Creek State Park, which offers more than 8,000 acres to roam. This photogenic park was also used as the set of the ‘70s show M.A.S.H., and many of the show’s production relics remain. Check out the Instagram-ready medic Jeep at the set’s entrance.

There’s no better spot to grab a bite and stargaze—and by that we mean A-list celebrities, not the Milky Way. Nobu has long been a favorite for the Hollywood elite to see and be seen, but it’s also a favorite because it’s so dang delicious. If you can, book a table out on its balcony over the ocean to take in the view in that direction. Don’t miss the famous miso black cod.

For a less touristy spot, stop in at Malibu Seafood. It may not look like much, but this laid-back fish stand on the side of the road actually serves up some of the tastiest eats on the P.C.H. Go for the fish tacos for an easy, fresh meal.

Malibu Farm actually comes with two locations on the pier: Malibu Farm Restaurant and Malibu Farm Cafe. Each is equally delicious, it just depends on what you’re after. For a full meal with items like Brussels sprout salads and cauliflower crust pizzas, go to the restaurant. For a coffee and a bite like multigrain pancakes or farm scrambled eggs, make your way to the end of the pier for the cafe.

Just as the name implies, The Old Place is indeed advancing into its elder years. But like a fine wine, this is a spot that only gets better with age. First opened in the 1800s as a general store, this property turned into a restaurant in the 1970s. The menu is loaded with stick-to-your-ribs favorites, like mac ‘n’ cheese, steaks, and potatoes—perfect for those big, post-surf-session appetites.

Located right on the sand of Surfrider beach, this hotel is the spot to be for a surf in, surf out stay. The decor is a bohemian dream with crisp white linens, solid wood furnishings, and rattan everything. The vibe is more “friend's beach house” than hotel, making it a supremely relaxing weekend stay.

Hidden along the P.C.H. is the Nobu Ryokan, one of the most exclusive luxury hotels around. The Ryokan, owned by Chef Nobu and Robert De Niro, comes with just 16 guest rooms for an intimate stay. To get in, you must contact the hotel to book directly. The best part about a stay? You can order room service from Nobu restaurant, which sits right next door.

This hotel sits on a spot known as “billionaires beach.” And from there, the luxe details are piled on: the 47 rooms and suites are all beachfront; guests have dedicated chaise loungers on the sand; and the front desk will even hook you up with water-sports adventures.

Feel like you’ve traveled much farther than the few miles outside of downtown L.A. with a stay at this Scandinavian-themed hideaway. Fit for up to four guests, this home comes with every amenity you’d need, shrunken down to a smaller package. It’s also just a two-minute drive to Zuma Beach, so you can hop in and out of the ocean as much as you’d like.

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