What to do in Ghana right now
Three Black diasporans weigh in on the country's cultural renaissance.
Like many African Americans with ancestral ties to West Africa, I answered the call of the ‘Year of Return’ in 2019, when Ghana’s tourism authority called millions from its diaspora back home. The event marked 400 years since the first ships with enslaved Africans left Jamestown, Ghana, and arrived in Jamestown, VA. This back-to-Africa movement has placed the small coastal country in the heart of Black people around the world—whether they had direct familial ties to the land, ancestral ties to the land, or no ties at all.
But this movement isn’t entirely new. It's a cultural renaissance, as Ghana has a generations-long history as a hub of Pan-Africanism with historical ties to liberation leaders such as Kwame Nkrumah, as well as icons like Malcolm X, Maya Angelou, and Muhammad Ali, who all journeyed to Ghana to visit, live, and work in the ‘60s, bridging the diaspora and the continent.
I've visited every year since, and it's become a second home. Part of the draw was the initial culture shock I felt on my first visit: Everyone looked like me. It was surreal and comforting to finally exist in my skin without the anxiousness of being Black in the Western world. What I love most about Ghana is that no matter where you're from, our people can come here and just be. That's a priceless feeling.
Beyond that community, the beaches in Ghana are unmatched—the shores of Accra's Labadi Beach were the first place I retreated to after losing my father. And with annual events like Chale Wote, a street-art and culture festival in historic Jamestown, and AfroFuture Festival, the December music festival that saw more than 40,000 attendees in 2023, Ghana continues to build its legacy as the “Gateway to Africa.” Today, many from across the African diaspora continue answering the call to return, some visiting frequently or relocating entirely. Here, two other diasporans share their take on Ghana’s draw, as well as their favorite spots to visit, from Accra to Aburi.
Leah R., Travel Content Creator at Leah’s Layovers
“I first started going to Ghana for work in 2021—I felt a deep connection because it reminded me so much of Trinidad. Both of my parents are from [Trinidad], and it was the first country I ever visited—over the years, I would always go [back.] The last time I went was in 2020 when my father passed away. I haven’t been back since, but when I go to Ghana, I feel this connection—it just reminds me so much of the Caribbean.
My experience visiting Ghana as a diasporan has been amazing—it's always akwaaba, ‘welcome.’ Everywhere I go, there's a sense of love and 'welcome back.’ I've completely shifted from going for work reasons to creating a life for myself over there. I'm hoping to move to Ghana within two years.”
Leah’s Ghana favorites:
Accra Arts Centre, Accra: “The Arts Centre is your one-stop shop for getting everything you need to take back home to family and friends—all of your gifts.”
Abajo Culture + Art Cafe, Accra: “This was the first time I’d ever had Ghanaian food, and it did not disappoint. It’s reasonably priced and good. They also cater to vegans and vegetarians.”
Mimoberry, Accra: “This is my go-to, girl—I just feel like it’s my nail shop. I’ve been going to them since 2021.”
Aburi Botanical Gardens, Aburi: “Aburi Botanical Gardens is an hour away from Accra, and it’s so peaceful out there. As soon as you’re driving up, you can feel this cool breeze.”
Dana Shum-Ferrer, program manager and consultant
“I was born and raised in Ghana before I moved to Canada for boarding school; I’ve been away from the country for about 17 years. My grandmother passed away in 2023, so it was important that I come back. I planned for a two- to three-month trip and bought a one-way ticket for myself and all three of my babies.
What has kept me in Ghana is the balance I can maintain in life as a mother, consultant, and partner. In the U.S., I felt very alone and isolated. I knew I shouldn’t have to worry about my kids going outside to play alone or getting in trouble at work because I had to go pick them up. The fact that I have a village here makes me realize how much I was doing in the U.S. and how bad my mental health was.
Ghana is not perfect; it’s expensive. There are a lot of things that I don’t love that I’m always fighting against, but it works for me. I get to grow as an individual.”
Dana’s Ghana favorites:
Adom Waterfalls, Obosomase: “Waterfalls are very spiritual in Ghanaian culture. When you go to a waterfall, it’s important that you pay respect to the ancestors, guides, and spirits that care for that place and people. One of my favorites is Adom.”
Makola Market, Accra: “From food [for myself] to my kid's lunch boxes, Makola has been a lifesaver. You can find anything. I can get grapes and kiwis—things that aren’t native to Ghana—in Makola for half the price I’d get elsewhere.”
The Woods, Accra: “The Woods is owned by a friend, and it’s also one of the more laid-back places in Accra. You can go any day of the week and meet with friends and have a good time.”
My Ghana favorites:
Dine On A Mat, across Ghana : “Chef Binta hosts an immersive dining experience that takes attendees through the nomadic food traditions of the Fulani people, highlighting indigenous Ghanaian and African ingredients over a multi-course meal.”
The Shop Accra, Accra: “This cozy boutique is my favorite spot for local artisan-made goods, from shea butter to hot sauces and bags. Afterward, I like walking a few minutes up the road for lunch at Kukun Cafe.”
Buka Restaurant, Accra: “Buka is usually the go-to spot for our welcome dinner on Buoyant Travel’s group trips to Ghana. They have the best Ghanaian and Nigerian dishes in town, and I usually go for the grilled tilapia or groundnut soup with one of their signature cocktails.”
Front/Back Accra, Accra: “Front/Back is a private members' club that’s often open to the public for nighttime events in Osu. It's an intimate, open-air bar experience that feels like partying in someone's backyard, and they always have the best DJs playing everything from Afrobeats to hip-hop.”
Sojourn Cabins, Anomabo: “Accra can get hectic, and although it's the ideal base for any trip to Ghana, I always like to get outside of the city. One of my favorite getaways is this collection of mirror cabins on a beautiful beachfront in Anomabo, just three hours outside the Accra.”
