How to do D.C. with tweens

I moved to LA years ago, but D.C. is like a second home: it’s where I spent insanely humid summers as a kid, where I went to college (go Howard!), where I met my husband, where I worked as a congressional intern, and where my siblings live today. So while I wouldn't call myself a local, you could say I know the Mall better than most.

Now that I have my own kids, I make it a point to go back as much as possible, combining seeing family with a chance to play tourist in a city I love. And I’ll tell you this: D.C. is the perfect family vacay if you’re looking to teach your kids about our nation. Of course, seeing the sites with two sometimes cranky preteens isn’t always easy, but if you throw in some fun and moments of independence you're all good (at least I hope). So here are some big wins from our last family trip.

Anyone who's been to D.C. in the summer knows the heat: this is a city built on a swamp and it can seriously feel that way. Add in the crowds at The National Mall, and you’re potentially looking at a sweaty, whiny day. So go see the monuments at night. I vividly remember viewing them in the late evening as a kid with my own parents. We would all scream when driving under the Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts just before turning the corner where the Lincoln Memorial would appear. Going at night gives you a slight breaking-the-rules feeling that any teenager will love—except it’s perfectly legal and the monuments don’t close and are well lit. My kids love to race up the steps to the Lincoln Memorial to see the statue of the former president and snap a selfie with the reflecting pool. Park by the Martin Luther King Jr. Memorial, and from there, walk to the Lincoln Memorial and back to the MLK Memorial. And don’t miss the view of the Jefferson Memorial from the MLK Memorial. You could also sign up for a guided night tour, which I’ve heard are great, but my crew prefers the DIY experience. No matter which you choose, end your evening with family-style tapas and praline ice cream at Chef Jose Andres’s first D.C. outpost, Jaleo.

Let me be honest: My preteens don’t love museums (do any?), so we focus on one museum per trip. When the kids were younger, it was all about the Air and Space Museum—it’s hands-down an absolute must for families with toddlers. But I’m thrilled they’re now old enough to dive into more complex history. On a recent trip, we scored tickets to the National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC). Like all Smithsonian museums, entrance is free, but timed tickets are required and they sell out quickly (tickets are released 30 days out so set your alarm to get yours early). The tour starts in an elevator that descends to Africa in the 1400s. From there, you make your way through 600-plus years of history from slavery to pop culture. We marveled at Prince’s guitar (well, I did), and saw the original Public Enemy flag along with Muhammed Ali’s gloves and robe. A tip: The museum follows a set path so keep in mind that you’re committing to viewing most of it at once and that takes a few hours.

Other museums I love for the preteen set that include similar glimpses into history: The National Museum of the American Indian and the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum. Keep in mind, it’s almost impossible to find decent food around the Mall, so I recommend eating at museum cafés. You don’t want to end a fantastic couple of hours with a hangry group (we’ve all been there and don't want to go back).

Family vacations involve, well, a lot of family time and with preteens, some time apart (if only a few yards) can be a welcome break. Of course, keeping them off their phones is key and I like to get them out in nature as much as possible. Luckily, D.C. has plenty of green open spaces so they can really spread out. My favorite spot is Rock Creek Park, which twists through the heart of the city. You can drive through, pick a parking area, and start exploring from pretty much anywhere. The National Zoo is also in the park and is a big hit with the kids–even now. Just make sure to get there early to avoid the crowds. For more spectacular nature, check out Great Falls Park, about a 20-minute drive from D.C. The park has gorgeous hiking trails and viewing points—I recommend the Patowmack Canal Trail hike, not too tough but a solid 1.5 miles. When you’re tired out, grab a slice from nearby Furlough cheesecake, where pies are made with tasty sweet potato and a graham cracker crust.

Nothing says home like the food you know and love, and in D.C. we’ve got our go-tos. I had my first half-smoke at Ben’s Chili Bowl while at Howard and I’ve never looked back. The line can be long, but my kids pass the time by looking for their favorite celeb pics on the wall. For brunch, we’re all about the Eastern Market, which has plenty of choices depending on what you’re craving. I like Bodegon Spanish Tapas, with a kid-friendly menu that includes fluffy pancakes, authentic tapas, and tasty cocktails for adults. We usually sit there for an extra cocktail while the kids explore the market.

And if you have the time, head out to the Chesapeake Bay, about an hour from D.C., for some Maryland blue crabs—in my opinion the small and sweet crabs are best enjoyed on the water at Mike's Restaurant & Crabhouse. It’s a blast to throw on a bib and crack them open while taking in the bay views.