A perfect day in Reykjavik

After nearly a decade of visits to the Land of Fire and Ice, I’ve come to understand that a day in Reykjavik can mean two things: 24 hours in the city without stepping foot in a car or a day trip right outside the city limits where the terrain gets rugged and moss paints the hills. But to spend a consecutive morning, afternoon, and an evening in the capital city… you’re in for a treat.

I set my alarm early; the city fills up with tourists and the best time to catch a quieter Reykjavik is before the morning commute starts. Brauð & Co—a can’t-miss bakery located near the iconic Hallgrimskirkja—opens up at 6:30am. I start the day with a cinnamon roll and cup of coffee and grab a seat on a nearby bench to savor the baked good, while taking in the city sounds (or lack thereof).

Once the crumbs are done, it's off on a true flaneuring session. (To flaneur is to wander without intent). I head west toward the downtown area, crossing Lækjargata into some of the city’s oldest streets. The historic architecture—some brick, some timber, some stone, all brightly painted—is eye-popping and small plaques along the streets share a bit of local lore.

When my morning walk starts to shed some of its glow, I make my way to Sky Lagoon. Located in Kópavogur, this hot spring is relatively new and sets up a strong alternative to touristy Blue Lagoon. Don’t sleep on the seven-step Ritual, which walks visitors through a soak in the geothermal waters, a dip in a cold plunge pool, a visit to what may be one of the most beautiful saunas in the country, and more. I usually spend at least 90 minutes here.

My next stop is Kaffibrenslan for lunch. During the day, this spot serves breakfast and fantastic sandwiches. At night, you’re more likely to run into a DJ set. I always go for one of the grilled cheese sandwiches and try to wiggle my way into a seat near the window (prime people watching).

The afternoon brings with it a museum... and a fair amount of walking. Designed by Alvar Aalto, the Nordic House showcases art and other rotating cultural exhibitions focused on Iceland and its Nordic sister countries. I like to stretch my legs after strolling through the museum and swing by Fischersund, a moody perfume boutique inspired by local ingredients and smells. Plus, it's run by Sigur Ros frontman Jonsi and his family.

High on perfume scents, I make my way to Marshall House, an exhibit space near the harbor that focuses on local artists. It usually takes about an hour to see everything there is to see, but I also take in the view from the top of artist Ólöf Norda’s Þúfa—a small, grassy hill with a spiral pathway. By then, I'm ready for pre-dinner treat at Omnom Chocolate Ice Cream Shop. This chocolatier started out as a business run out of a local gas station. Today, it ships its sweets worldwide and whips up some downright inventive sundaes. My favorite, The Bat: coffee chocolate sauce, yuzu cream, soft serve, and roasted pretzel crumble. This stretch of the harbor houses local artisans like Hlín Reykdal (jewelry), Borð Fyrir Tvo (gifts and souvenirs), Jens (more jewelry), Magnea (fashion designer), and more.

Dinner in Reykjavik is a big decision, and don’t be fooled: This city is far from one-sided in its dishes. Sure, you may hear tales of fermented shark and puffin, but I go for a local favorite instead. Hosiló serves an ever-changing menu with modern spins on traditional ingredients and the freshest fish you’ll ever taste. Plus, the staff always has a spot-on wine recommendation. If you’re looking for a Michelin-star experience, book a table (way ahead of time) at Dill or head to newcomer Tides (which is home to some incredible mocktails).

After dinner, I toast to my day at Einstock Bar—the Akureyri-based brewery recently opened a beer bar with A+ outdoor seating on Laugavegur. I recommend the Arctic Pale Ale. If I crave round two, I make the quick journey to Tiu Sopar, a basement bar known for its focus on natural wine, or to Prikid, one of the city’s oldest bar that is more often than not playing local hip-hop tracks—or hosting a DJ.

While you may think the night is over, there's one more vital stop on my itinerary. It’s a bit of a walk from the bars of downtown Reykjavik, but the town’s best hot dog stand is open real late—1a.m. on the early side and 6a.m. on the weekends. I order mine with the works: onions, ketchup, a sweet-ish brown mustard called pylsusinnep, and remoulade. And then with my stomach full, I'm finally ready for bed.