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All Articles Taste The World In One City: London

Taste The World In One City: London

Catherine Sarsfield
By Catherine Sarsfield1 Apr 2022 2 minutes read
Spread of dishes consisting of meat, vegetables and a central plate of yellow, green and red food from Chukus in London on a wood table.
Image: NAF CASTANAS (@adashandasplash)

London is more than just fish and chips or pie and mash. Walk down a quiet cobbled street and you’ll find a trattoria making fresh pasta that would be just at home in Southern Italy. On another block, there's a restaurant turning out some of the best chili-drenched dumplings in the city. That place everyone’s talking about in Brixton village? It will transport you to another continent entirely.

South

Some head to Chinatown for dim sum, but you’d be missing out on a Camberwell classic: Silk Road. Come for a late-night dinner (closing time is 11 p.m.) and indulge in all manner of chili-kissed noodles. Share a plate of the Xiang-style hand-pulled ones with lamb, which come in a lip-stinging sour soup.

Honey dripping off of a spoon onto a Chukus restaurant dish.
Window view of London from Afghan Kitchen restaurant including two plants and a set table.
Image: Rebecca Dickson | Tripadvisor

North

The Nigerian tapas restaurant Chuku’s, run by siblings Emeka and Ifeyinwa Frederick, warrants a trip to Tottenham. Share the fluffy yam dumplings or the beef ayamase, which comes smothered in kicky green pepper sauce. And don’t miss the yam and smoked mackerel croquettes, which bring together salt, crunch, and big heat from the scotch bonnet jam.

Travel south a little farther to Afghan Kitchen in Islington Green, a tiny, long-standing spot with an even tinier menu. All of the dishes here are gently spiced, rich, and saucy, begging to be mopped up with fluffy house-made bread. Order the tender lamb or eggplant in yogurt.

Tablescape of dishes from the Marksman with a woman sitting in the background. The dishes include a meat dish, greens, potatoes and an onion ring.
An overhead shot of a Khyber Pass dish of Shish Kebabs.
Campania's bowl of cherry tomatoes, cheese and a sprig of basil on a marble tabletop.
Image: Tripadvisor

East

On weekends, Khyber Pass in Manor Park is the place to be for Northern Pakistani fare. Go for ghanta ghar chicken, enriched with ginger, chili, and garlic. The daals here are fragrant and al dente—the perfect complement to the peshwari chappli lamb kebab. And don't skip the kahwa tea, which is sweet and heady with cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon.

Grab an early lunch at Campania and order the gnudi: three perfect spheres of pillowy ricotta and sage drenched in butter. Strongly consider the scialatielli: fat, doughy, lengthy strands bathed in peppery, garlicky olive oil and usually tossed with whatever shellfish is on that week.

One thing you can count on in London is that there’s always a good pub a stone’s throw away; in this case, it’s The Marksman, just around the corner from Campania. In need of a light bite? Order the Maldon-flecked oysters or the langoustines. Ravenous? A classic Sunday roast will do the trick. The beef and Yorkshire pudding for two is a worthy—and sleep-inducing—way to end the day.

A plated scallop from Orasay.
Image: Tripadvisor

West

The team behind the Middle Eastern grill house Berber & Q have opened Carmel, in Queen's Park, a Middle Eastern-meets-Mediterranean restaurant serving Spanish tomatoes sprinkled with sumac, a whole-roasted cauliflower with turmeric and pomegranate agrodolce, and a spicy, smoky, fall-off-the-bone roast chicken. The hummus (creamy and tangy) with the za’atar flatbread (soft and pillowy) should be on-hand at all times.

Head south from Queen’s Park toward Notting Hill for seafood from the Western Isles at Orasay. If you’re passing through for lunch, grab the fish finger sandwich: crispy fried haddock, tartar sauce, and shredded cabbage, all piled high into a potato bun. Oyster happy hour takes place between 4 and 7pm on weekdays, but you'd might as stay for dinner and order the whipped cod’s roe on potato bread.

Sarap Baon dish of sliced meat, asparagus, shallots and sauce on a speckled plate.
Image: Thomas Alexander

Central

A Filipino bistro in the heart of Mayfair, Sarap Baon, from the Philippines-born chef Ferdinand Montoya, focuses on all-things-pork. There’s a whole suckling pig stuffed with lemongrass and pork adobo rice for the table, plus monkfish escabeche and celeriac kare kare, a rich, peanut-y stew finished with a hit of truffle. Be sure to order a side of coconut milk–braised kale, which is doused in ginger, chili, and garlic.

Catherine Sarsfield
Cat Sarsfield is a food writer, content strategist and unmeasured cook with a millennial penchant for fresh pasta, scammer stories and penning newsletters. Namely her own, Since No One Asked, a weekly-ish dispatch of food nostalgia, recipe-not-recipes and cultural content recommendations. Fun fact: she's lived in a shed in Cornwall, a railway house in Sri Lanka and a bridal suite in California.