Advertisement
All Articles 3 perfect days in Bar Harbor

3 perfect days in Bar Harbor

Your guide to eating, hiking, and relaxing in this New England gem.

Chelsea Bengier
By Chelsea Bengier13 Feb 2024 9 minutes read
Town and Harbor of Bar Harbor in Acadia National Park
Town and Harbor of Bar Harbor.
Image: Getty Images/Peter Unger

Bar Harbor on Mount Desert Island is postcard-perfect Maine. Sailboats bob in the bay, fog blankets the towering peaks, and whales breach beyond the jagged shore. The town is so charming, it feels like a movie set rather than real life.

It's no wonder why legendary families like the Rockefellers, Vanderbilts, and Pulitzers built their lavish summer "cottages" here in the 19th century. And while these Gilded Age estates still stand today, Bar Harbor is way more accessible now (as I discovered on a recent trip).

For this ultimate three-day guide, I combine my own picks for what to do, see, and eat (lobsters rolls included) with trusted recommendations from Tripadvisor travelers who've been there.

Save all the things you love

Tap the heart on any place mentioned below to save all your travel ideas in one place and build a custom itinerary. Learn more.


DAY ONE

Seafood paella on white plate with blue trim
Mojito with mint garnish on wooden table
Paella and mojito at Havana.
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

MORNING: Hike for bird's-eye views

Wake up with a strong cup of joe at Cafe This Way, set on a quiet side street. It opens at 6:30 a.m., so you'll have plenty of time to tuck into a stack of wild blueberry pancakes, which have perfectly fluffy centers and crunchy edges.

Once you've had your fill, lace up your hiking boots for an hour-long journey around the Beehive Loop in Acadia National Park. This 1.5-mile trek isn't for the faint of heart—metal rungs climb up the side of Champlain Mountain—but it's worth the effort for the panoramic view at the top. You'll be able to see Gorham Mountain, Otter Cliffs, and the Schoodic Peninsula. Even though I was winded by the end of it, I had zero regrets as it was the most unique adventure on my trip.

After that sheer scramble, you deserve a break to catch your breath. From the trailhead, stroll five minutes to Sand Beach—a rare soft stretch along Maine's rocky shores. On sunny days, you'll find couples picnicking under the pines and kids playing in the brisk waves.

Travelers say: "My son and I are intermediate backpackers, and we had a blast [on the Beehive Loop]. The drop-offs aren't as steep as I thought they'd be, but if you're scared of heights, there's a junction with an easier path to the summit. I recommend going early in the morning to avoid the crowds and parking in the Sand Beach lot (if you miss the turn, you'll have to circle back 30 minutes since it's a one-way road)." —@NCTraveler

AFTERNOON: Have lunch at a secret lobster shack

You can't go to Maine and not eat your weight in lobster. But with so many quaint seafood restaurants to choose from, I don't blame you if you're overwhelmed by the options. I love hunting for the freshest catch, so I was thrilled to discover Perry's Lobster Shack. Hidden in a remote bay 45 minutes from Bar Harbor, this tiny local spot is a well-kept secret. Snag a stool or picnic table on the pier and watch the fishermen unload crates of crustaceans from their boats. The whole lobster and sweet corn-on-the-cob melt in your mouth. The steamed clams are also memorable, and you must order a warm slice of blueberry pie. Bonus: It's BYOB and pet-friendly!

FOOD TOUR OPTIONS

  • Save room for the Bar Harbor Culinary Walking Tour, where you'll taste some of the town's best bites.
  • This six-hour private tour takes you sightseeing at Cadillac Mountain, Somes Sound Fjord, and Asticou Gardens, as well as behind the scenes at an authentic lobster pound.
  • Craft beer is huge in Maine. On the Hoppy Hour Beer and Food Adventure, you'll visit three tasting rooms to try pours of these small-batch suds (snacks are included).

EVENING: Taste craft beer and Caribbean flavors

On your way back into town, enjoy happy hour at Atlantic Brewing Company (the original Knox Road outpost). Book a tour and tasting to learn more about making craft beer, then pick five flavorful IPAs and ales for your flight. The blueberry soda and root beer float are fantastic for non-drinkers, too. Plus, there's plenty of space to spread out in the jovial garden shared with the BBQ joint next door. After so much seafood, meat might be tempting, especially when the ribs are so tender they fall right off the bone. But there's an even better option for dinner.

Treat yourself to upscale Latin American fare at Havana. This cozy restaurant is ideal for a special occasion (think white tablecloths and live jazz), while its lively patio is more casual. Complimentary goodies set the stage: an amuse-bouche and artisanal bread basket with chili oil, cinnamon butter, and roasted red pepper hummus that all blew my mind. Our group shared the pumpkin soup, grilled peach salad, chimichurri sirloin, squid ink gnocchi with uni cream, and guava crème brûlée. The standout entrées were seafood paella (careful, the chorizo has a kick) and lobster moqueca with haddock, pineapple, and coconut broth.

Worthy detours along the way

DAY TWO

Cadillac Mountain at sunrise, with autumn colors and water in distance
Cadillac Mountain at sunrise.
Image: Getty Images/Charles Davies

MORNING: Take in the sunrise and sweet treats

Rise and shine! You'll need to start early this morning to catch the sunrise at Cadillac Mountain. Since it's the highest point on the East Coast, you'll be the first in the U.S. to greet the new day. Note: If you're driving the three-mile scenic road to the peak between May and October, make sure to reserve a timeslot far in advance. Without this permit, the park rangers won't let you pass. Otherwise, the Cadillac Mountain Summit Shuttle is a brand-new express service; seats are available on a first-come, first-served basis ($10 each way). The owner and driver, Ellen, happily shares local history and tales on the ride.

Travelers say: "Utterly stunning experience. With the sea fog, the colors were just amazing. The tickets for sunrise sell out within 3 minutes, so set a reminder on your phone and be ready! We also did the Hawk Watch, which was really interesting." —@Rachel

AFTERNOON: Enjoy an al fresco lunch

Head to Jordan Pond House Restaurant in Acadia National Park when hunger strikes. Guests have flocked to this lodge since 1893 for afternoon tea—a beloved tradition that continues to this day. Since teatime gets busy, you're more likely to score a table on the lakefront lawn (or by the wood-burning fireplace inside) before 11:30 a.m. and after 4 p.m.

The popovers and Maine strawberry jam are a must (two popovers are included with the lobster stew). Would you prefer a quick snack? Upstairs, a new carry-out counter sells coffee and muffins to mountain bikers and cross-country skiers who pull off the tranquil carriage roads.

OUTDOOR TOUR OPTIONS

EVENING: Watch the sunset from a serene overlook

If you have time, walk along the water on the Jordan Pond path to Bubble Rock (a total distance of four miles). The loop is more accessible going clockwise up to the South Bubble—named after its famous balancing boulder—and descending via the stairs on the other side. Or, do as my friends and I did: Drive five minutes up the road to the parking lot at the Bubbles Divide trailhead and hike a half-hour to the North Bubble (one mile out and back). This route is shorter than its southern sister but more challenging due to the slippery, rocky terrain. We chose it because the outcropping has a higher elevation (read: better views), making it a peaceful, private perch to watch the sunset over the lake and the ocean beyond.

When I asked my local friend where she likes to eat, she immediately suggested Side Street Cafe. The bar has a warm ambiance (a comfort on Maine's chilly nights), and our food was served with a smile. We started with crispy sweet potato fries, and the "lobstah" mac n' cheese was such a hit, we ordered another round.

Worthy detours along the way

DAY THREE

Sunset at Bass Harbor Lighthouse, Acadia National Park
Bass Harbor Lighthouse at sunset.
Image: Getty Images/Philippe Gratton

MORNING: Eat breakfast at a New England diner

Feel free to sleep in today and have a leisurely breakfast at 2 Cats. The restaurant is inside a funky old house, but the best tables are on its charming wraparound porch. Fuel up with the decadent lobster eggs Benedict, or for something lighter, get the freshly squeezed orange juice and homemade biscuits slathered in strawberry butter.

Travelers say: "What's not to love? Mount Desert Island has spectacular scenery, away from the traffic. There are some quiet trails on the southwest side of MDI [near Bass Harbor lighthouse]. The Wonderland path was gorgeous; we even did it at night for a star walk." —@Jane

AFTERNOON: Road trip to a classic lighthouse

Take it easy on a scenic 90-minute drive around Mount Desert Island. Wind down Route 3 by Seal Harbor, then up and over to Route 102 (follow signs for 102a). As you pass by dense forests and rugged cliffs, unroll your windows to let in the briny breeze and the bell buoys' eerie sounds. Peeking out of the mist, Bar Harbor Head Lighthouse is a magical little stop. The paved path on the left leads to a postcard-perfect viewpoint. Tip: Go at low tide to safely clamber over the rocks for a closer look.

Prepare to pull over for pictures and a bite at a quintessential lobster pound. While you may have heard of famous places like Charlotte's or Thurston's, I recommend The Travelin Lobster. A local fisherman owns and operates this seasonal roadside stand, where there's always a line of eager customers at the counter. It's old-school, featuring a simple but savory menu at a reasonable price. Of course, you must try the hot lobster roll, stuffed with huge chunks of meat and a couple of buttery claws on top, but the clam chowder (served in a bread bowl) is delightful, too.

BOAT TOUR OPTIONS

  • History buffs should sign up for this Windjammer sailing trip around Maine's Porcupine Islands.
  • On the traditional Lulu Lobster Boat, you'll learn all about Maine's iconic crustacean and fishing methods.
  • The whole family will have fun at Diver Ed's Dive-In Theater. Kids can watch on a live video as he scuba dives to the ocean floor and brings up sea creatures to show them.
  • Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co. follows the gentle giants on a nature cruise. Besides humpbacks, there are often puffins and seals on the way to Baker Island.

EVENING: Cruise down the craggy coastline

Test your sea legs aboard Acadian Boat Tours. We booked a two-hour sunset cruise in Frenchman Bay, with its off-the-grid islands, elegant mansions, and historic lighthouses. The knowledgeable captain and crew were excellent at pointing out marine animals. The wildlife was a major highlight—we saw bald eagles, harbor porpoises, and seal colonies (dozens of these curious creatures swam near to check us out). Tip: Wear warm clothes and a waterproof jacket in case of rain. The excursion departs from a dock behind the Atlantic Oceanside Hotel (parking is free, and they offer free pick-up from hotels downtown).

After disembarking, celebrate your final night at Salt & Steel, one of the hottest tables in town. Chef Bobby Will sources high-quality seasonal produce for his farm-to-table fare. The customizable four-course tasting menu is a great option. I still dream about the truffle cacio e pepe, the Maine cheese board, and the charred Spanish octopus with roasted garlic polenta. Remember to wash it down with one (or two) of the bartender's creative cocktails.

Worthy detours along the way

Know Before You Go


Bar Harbor is more crowded in summer and fall (it's a popular leaf-peeping destination). The shoulder seasons (late May and early October) are calmer. In the winter, restaurants, shops, and tours are closed, and many roads have detours due to slick conditions.



As is common in most places, weekends are the busiest. Remember: Some restaurants close on Sundays and Mondays. Go mid-week, when it's quieter, and businesses are open.



Because Bar Harbor borders Acadia National Park, many cafés, diners, and coffee shops open early in the morning to cater to hikers. Restaurants stay open until about 9 p.m., while shops typically have 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. hours.



For New England elegance: Sitting on a bluff steps from downtown, Bar Harbor Inn is a classic Maine stay with pleasant amenities, such as an infinity pool and a serene spa. I particularly love its Reading Room Restaurant in the waterfront rotunda. (Make reservations in advance to secure a window-side table.)

For cozy comfort: You'll feel right at home at The Inn on Mount Desert. On a leafy side street in Bar Harbor, this family-run B&B oozes charm with its small library, fire pits, bocce ball courts in the garden, and rocking chairs on the front porch. I appreciated the macarons and tea at check-in and the homemade cookies and hot chocolate in the evening.

For old-school ambiance: Bass Cottage and Ullikana Inn share a property near Frenchman Bay. Set in an 1885 Tudor Revival home, Ullikana's suites are updated with fireplaces and terraces. Meanwhile, Bass Cottage is a historic Victorian B&B with thoughtful touches like Molton Brown bath products and happy hour with wine, cheese, and fresh fruit.



By car: Having a car allows you to explore the area independently, without waiting at busy bus stops.

By bus: The free Island Explorer bus connects all the communities on both Mount Desert Island and the Schoodic Peninsula from mid-June until the end of August. The Bar Harbor/Bangor Shuttle is a private service that operates from June through October (reservations are required). Public transit is limited in the off-season.

By ferry: Bar Harbor ferries cross the bay to Winter Harbor on the Schoodic Peninsula. (You can bring your bike onboard.) The CAT high-speed car ferry connects Bar Harbor to Yarmouth in Nova Scotia, and the journey takes three-and-a-half hours.