Conquering Lisbon's museum maze like a pro

While you may have to wait in line for a transcendent custard tart in Lisbon (worth it), one thing that sets this city apart is the fact that its museums are highly accessible—unlike so many other European capitals. No lines snaking around the corner, no elbowing tourists to get a glimpse of a Renaissance painting, and no sky-high ticket prices.

That’s not to say Lisbon is void of travelers—quite the opposite. I’ve visited regularly over the past decade, and from my first experience while traveling in college (when Lisbon was a calm and quaint city), to watching it explode into a serious hotspot, it’s been wild to see the transformation.

Now when I go to Lisbon, apart from checking out the latest exhibitions (and taking part in my favorite travel activity, non-stop eating), I’m all about exploring the aesthetic minutiae of the city, like finding a tile design I’ve never seen before or snapping a photo of some new street art. It's all this that makes the city so special and this museum guide is a great starting point—whether it’s your first visit or your 10th. A heads up: I’ve also thrown in an exhaustion rating system for good measure because: marble floors and hills.

Yes, you come here for the art, but the architecture and location of this museum alone is worth the visit. Set right on the riverfront in Belém, the permanent and rotating collections are divided into two sections. One is a repurposed electrical power station—not your typical Portuguese architecture, but it’s the perfect industrial backdrop for the museum’s contemporary art exhibitions. The second is a newer, eye-popping complex, with an undulating white-tiled structure and a dramatic, sweeping entrance ramp. It’s a riveting collision of contemporary art, architecture, and technology. Pick and choose what you want to see depending on how much time you have, but I highly recommend you make your way downstairs to see the reproduction of the original electric plant. It's eerie to imagine what it was like to work in a factory back in the day.

Tip: After your visit, I recommend checking out the fusion-style plates at Maat Café & Kitchen. Grab a table on the terrace at the water’s edge, sip a bright Macchu Pisco cocktail, and dig into fresh oysters and a plate of scallops with crispy Jerusalem artichokes.

Calouste Gulbenkian is a Turkish-Armenian oil magnate who was born in 1869 and amassed one of the largest private art holdings in history. His collection includes contemporary art works and antiquities like Armenian ceramics, but as a plant nerd, I come for the gardens. They were designed to serve as both an outdoor exhibit and a green oasis in the city, with plenty of secret areas to discover (the architect totally nailed it).

Tip: Guided tours are available in English every Monday at 11am for €15, but I’m all about using the free audio guide on the Gulbenkian Museum app and saving my euros for lunch at the traditional restaurant less than a mile down the street, O Nobre. You’ll probably be the only tourist in the dining room.

Part of the museum is closed for renovations, so check ahead of time.

Jose Berardo is the modern-day version of Calouste Gulbenkian. A well-known collector and prominent banker, he scooped up more than 900 works from big names in contemporary art: Picasso, Warhol, Miró, and Bacon, along with noteworthy Portuguese artists like Maria Helena da Silva and Helena Almeida. He no longer owns the collection, but his name lives on at this surprisingly understated museum in Belém’s cultural center. The design of the place isn’t anything to write home about, but it’s my favorite spot to check out Modernist masters like Dali.

Tip: This museum feels super intimate but the temporary exhibitions change regularly, so you’re always likely to find something new. Don’t ignore the black-and-white sculpture at the entrance of the building, L’Arbre Biplan (The Biplane Tree), which was created by renowned French artist Jean Dubuffet in the 1960s.

Lisbon’s MNAA is more than just a collection of artifacts from around the world—it tells the history of Portugal’s past. While you could run off to check the boxes on the most well-known works, like the St. Vincent Panels, seeing the museum as a whole—like a Portuguese history book—is the real sell here. Since you can’t take in thousands of years of history all in one day without exhausting the whole family, head to the exhibition on the second floor (which is really the 3rd floor in this part of the world). It highlights ancient art from the “Discoveries” period, when Portugal was first navigating the world.

Tip: Take a rest in the garden cafe of the museum afterwards and enjoy the views of Tajo River. The traditional food served here isn’t bad but I’d go for a galão (a Portuguese version of a latte) or a locally made Super Bock beer instead.

It may seem like a strange stop unless you’re a puppeteer, but this museum dedicated to puppetry is surprisingly fascinating and tucked away in the lively Santos neighborhood. Okay, there’s an undeniably creepy element to the whole thing, but it’s artfully imaginative and great for both adults and kids. Bonus: it's a quick walk through, which means less complaints from the little ones.

Tip: On the last Sunday of the month the museum offers interactive workshops for kids. I recommend you grab a pick-me-up afterward at Buna Specialty Coffee just a five-minute walk from the famous Green Street.

While you could easily visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, I recommend another option: a street art tour. Because the reality is that Lisbon’s famous tiles are best seen and understood on the streets (which is why I always come home with a phone full of tile photos). I'm a big fan of City Guru, the very first street art tour in Lisbon, which is like a fluid, outdoor museum. A Lisbon street artist takes you through four different neighborhoods where you’ll see how styles and symbols vary based on each area’s history and social makeup. Without a guide it would be impossible to find all this art, much less catch the nuances.

Tip: Wear comfortable walking shoes. The best street art is often found at the top of steep hills marked by old cobblestone steps, which you'll need to climb.

This small museum in Alfama celebrates fado culture—in all its magnificent tragedy (for those who don't know, Fado, which translates to “fate” in Portuguese, is a spontaneous and passionate music style that was born in Lisbon in the 1800s). A collection of posters, photos, paintings, and an exhibit on the evolution of the Portuguese guitar, all work together to tell the story of fado. It’s a small museum, but take the time to stop at the listening areas and use the audio guides, which are included in the affordable €5 ticket. With special audio guides also tailored to kids, it’s an easy stop for the whole family.

Tip: Do yourself a favor and experience fado music live before hitting up the museum. Check out my favorite fado show, Maria do Mouraria—an intimate private home where you’ll also get to sample traditional Portuguese dishes like grilled sardines and a fava bean salad.