Getaway to Cape Cod: lobster rolls, biking paths, and pretty beaches

I’ve been vacationing on Cape Cod for as long as I can remember. When I was a little kid, my dad said that you could expect good weather if you spotted a boat as you crossed over one of the two bridges separating this 70-mile-long peninsula from mainland Massachusetts. These days, my daughter, Lucy, helps scan the Cape Cod Canal for boats as we arrive.

My parents always dreamed of living here full-time and (lucky for me) eventually decided to buy a house in Harwich, just minutes from the center of Chatham. I’ll be back in future issues to explore other areas, but for this issue of The WeekEnder, I’m sharing my insider’s guide to this pair of towns right near the elbow of the Cape. And I have to give credit where credit is due. I sometimes think that my dad should have been a travel writer because he was an expert in sleuthing out the best spots — the latest restaurant, a cool new shop, a secret beach, a great hike. We recently lost my dad, but I credit him with helping me and my family create a lifetime of memories on Cape Cod, from squirt gun boats that are a blast no matter how old you are to the best lobster rolls on the planet.

Not much has changed here since I was little — and things have been getting back to normal, despite the pandemic. In the summer, the local band still plays every Friday night in Kate Gould Park in Chatham and the Squire is still the hangout of choice in the center of town. But there are some new visitors to town, namely, the great white sharks that now make this area their summer home and have become an unexpected tourist attraction. (A tip: Sign up for the Sharktivity app to track sightings while you’re here.)

So with summer just around the corner, join me for a weekend escape to the Cape. And know that even if you don’t spot a boat when you cross the Sagamore or the Bourne Bridge, there will be happy days ahead with this list in hand.

The CBI (as everyone calls it) is a grand dame from 1914 that provides travelers and locals with the quintessential Cape Cod experience. There’s nothing like dinner at the farm-to-table Sacred Cod in the main inn (my family goes here every Christmas Eve). And when the weather’s nice, you’ll find my crew devouring the best lobster rolls around at the Beach House Grill, an open-air restaurant set alongside the sand dunes. For the sporty crowd, the CBI has sailing, fishing, and lobstering trips. Or if you’re really brave, you can buckle up for a private expedition to try and spot great white sharks. The hotel’s oceanfront location can’t be beat, plus, it’s a stone’s throw from downtown’s quaint Main Street.

Honorable hotel mentions

Luxury meets family-friendly at the Wequassett. Mom and dad will appreciate the spacious suites, while kids will love the pirate ship playground, beach bonfires, and movie nights under the stars. Educational yet fun-filled programming — on land and sea — is available for toddlers up to age 12, ensuring the whole family gets a vacation.

This cheery beachfront motel is set on a sandy stretch between Chatham and Harwich. Choose from a standard suite, townhome, or house, all with a private sundeck and easy access to the beach.

With its central location, this colonial-style hotel is a prime place for anyone who wants to enjoy Chatham’s boutiques, restaurants, and festivals.

If you’re into food and wine, book a stay at this upscale Relais & Chateaux hotel in the center of town with a wine bar (32 options by the glass), an al-fresco terrace for cocktails by the firepit, and an onsite fine-dining restaurant (more on that in a few).

This captain’s estate turned bed and breakfast has 16 uniquely designed rooms spread across the main inn, a cottage, and a carriage house. Nestled on two beautifully manicured acres, the romantic retreat is for adults only, and gourmet breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the rate.

This family-owned motel on the outskirts of downtown is simple and clean, with a heated outdoor pool and easy access to the best of the area.

These days, there’s so much more to dining on Cape Cod than fried clam shacks. Here’s my hit list.

Hangar B Eatery in Chatham - The red flannel hash, the lemon ricotta pancakes, the huevos rancheros. I love everything on the menu at this breakfast spot overlooking the runways at the Chatham airport.

Larry’s PX in Chatham - You don’t come here for the high-quality food. You come to this low-key diner because it’s a flashback to old-school Cape Cod, the place where fishermen gather for eggs and bacon and a cup of hot coffee.

Corner Store in Chatham - The breakfast burritos are reason enough to pop by the Corner Store. Note that the hours are limited and only open Wednesday through Sunday.

Mac’s Chatham Fish & Lobster in Chatham - Casual, quick, and classic: This offshoot of a popular Wellfleet restaurant serves the freshest fish dishes, such as shrimp fried rice with sambal to seared local sea scallops with sweet corn, roasted heirloom tomato, and bacon. Order your meal and grab a picnic table outside.

Chatham Squire in Chatham - Right in the center of town, the Squire is a long-standing Chatham standby and a Begley family favorite. There’s a quiet dining room, but we prefer the lively bar area, which is plastered with license plates and has kid-friendly video games in the back room and live music. Great for lunch or dinner.

Drifters in Chatham - I’m counting the days until my favorite gastropub from Brooklyn (Maracuja) opens this new location with tapas-style coastal cuisine, craft cocktails, and natural wines at 2462 Main Street in the old Talkative Pig space. (Note that the website wasn’t live at press time.)

Del Mar Bar & Bistro in Chatham - The vast menu ranges from seafood to wood-fired pizza to steak. Enjoy live jazz on select summer evenings, and be sure to make reservations well in advance — Del Mar is popular for a reason.

Pates Restaurant in Chatham - Modern New England cuisine (peking duck tacos, everything-crusted ahi tuna with garlic fried snap peas and mango-chili salsa), plus a libations team that has spot-on cocktail suggestions.

Buca’s Tuscan Roadhouse in Harwich - This low-lit Tuscan-themed restaurant is one of my family’s go-to spots. We’re obsessed with the wild boar pasta bolognese topped with heavenly helpings of whipped ricotta cheese and the prosciutto-wrapped artichokes stuffed with gorgonzola and mascarpone.

The Impudent Oyster in Chatham - Before kids came along and we started going to the Squire, this was my family’s place in Chatham. Locals love this seafood spot in an old church that’s been around for 40 years — and visitors will quickly see why. Every dish is perfection, and the hospitality is unmatched.

Cuvee at Chatham Inn in Chatham - Dinner here is an experience. The talented team of chefs whips up creative four- and seven-course menus; expect dishes like lobster with cauliflower, citrus, and brandy cream. Or go all out with the three-hour chef’s table experience: a 10- to 12-course dinner served right in the kitchen.

Twenty-Eight Atlantic in Harwich - Every dish from noted chef James Hackney’s coastal menu is thoughtfully crafted with organic flavors and a beautiful presentation. The award-winning restaurant is beloved for its fine dining experience. If you time it right, weather-wise, you can enjoy your meal on the veranda overlooking Pleasant Bay.

The Candy Manor in Chatham - I can’t come to Chatham without a stop at the Candy Manor, which has been making homemade chocolate treats since 1955. The selection varies based on the season, but there are a few things that never change, like my personal obsession, the Ritzie: two Ritz crackers with peanut butter in the middle, all dipped in chocolate.

Sundae School in Harwich Port - Ice cream and summertime go hand-in-hand. Make a beeline for Sundae School to cool off with one of its famous ice cream sundaes with all the toppings and take some selfies with the old-fashioned hats that they give out for free.

Marion’s Pie Shop in Chatham - A range of homemade pies, from razzleberry (blackberry, raspberry, and apple) to cran peach praline, just like mom used to make. And have you ever heard of a clam pie? It’s like a chicken pot pie but with clams, and it’s a speciality at Marion’s.

The Port in Harwich Port - Take in live music or play a game of corn hole or ring toss while you sip on one of the Port’s famous martinis or an epic Bloody Mary.

3 Monkeys Street Bar in Harwich Port - Let the bar make you a creative cocktail using its wide selection of Japanese whisky at this buzzing spot that also has a global Asian-inspired menu.

There are dozens upon dozens of salt and freshwater beaches throughout Chatham and Harwich. These are a few of my favorites.

Lighthouse Beach in Chatham - Set right in front of Chatham’s iconic lighthouse, this is one of the most beautiful beaches on earth. The parking is limited, so we just come to take a quick stroll along the sand or gaze out over the famous “break,” where the ocean broke through the barrier island.

Oyster Pond in Chatham - This saltwater beach has warm, calm water — ideal for little kids — which is why everyone in town calls it “Children’s Beach.” Parking is free, but it fills up quickly.

Red River Beach in Harwich - With its location on the Nantucket Sound, the water is warmer earlier in the season. Families flock here for the soft sand, tidal marshes, and ice cream trucks. The long parking lot stretches along the beach, so it’s a quick stroll from your car to the sand.

Jackknife Beach in Chatham and Harwich - My family will probably be annoyed for revealing this hidden gem of a bayside beach. But this is my gift to The WeekEnder readers. You don’t need to pay to park here. And if you’re feeling adventurous you can buy a non-resident shellfishing pass from the Harwich Harbormaster at the Saquatucket Municipal Marina and go clamming a couple of days a week.

From lovely hikes to great fishing holes, this area is full of natural wonders.

Monomoy Island National Wildlife Refuge in Chatham - Wildlife lovers will want to take a hike through this refuge to catch a glimpse of migratory birds, horseshoe crabs, and grey seals. The protected area encompasses a variety of habitats, including salt and freshwater marshes, dunes, ponds, and ocean.

Mitchell River Bridge in Chatham - My grandfather and my dad used to take my brother and me fishing on this wooden bridge when we were kids and now we take my daughter and my niece. You can buy a $10 saltwater fishing license online from the state and get rods and supplies at Chatham Bait & Tackle, which also offers guided fishing charters.

Cape Cod Rail Trail in Chatham and Harwich - This flat, long biking trail snakes along a 19th-century rail line and winds past cranberry bogs, marshes, and kettle ponds.

Thanks to all the amusements here, it’s no wonder the Cape is a childhood dream.

Grand Slam Entertainment in Harwich Port - Squirt gun boats, batting cages, and even a short zip line — it doesn’t get much more fun than this.

The Trampolines in West Harwich - This outdoor trampoline park is the perfect place for the kids to, ahem, jump their jiggles out.

Shark Center in Chatham - With so many great white sharks calling Cape Cod waters their home, budding marine biologists will get a kick out of the Shark Center’s exhibits.

Band Night in Chatham - One of my beloved childhood memories is going to the old-fashioned Friday night concerts in downtown's Kate Gould Park. Did we mention that they’re free?

Cartwheels of Cape Cod in Dennis - Granted, there’s a go-kart place in Harwich Port, but when the kids are clamoring to ride the go-karts, my family prefers this location in nearby Dennis.

If shopping’s your thing, you’ll find plenty of options in the center of Chatham and Harwich Port — ideal for rainy day entertainment.

The Chatham Home in Chatham - When I’m dreaming about how I’d decorate my own beach house if I had an unlimited budget, I head to this coastal-chic store for styling ideas.

Ducks in the Window in Chatham - Something you never knew you needed? The world’s largest selection of rubber duckies. Perfect for the young at heart.

The Squire Shop in Chatham - Don’t steal your beer glass at the Squire: Head across the street to buy one and get yourself a souvenir hat and a T-shirt while you’re at it.

Ben Franklin in Chatham - A classic five-and-dime store that I’ve been coming to since I was a little kid.

Dr. Gravity’s Kite Shop in Harwich Port - Stock up on all your beach gear — yes, kites included. Serving families (including my own) since 1976.

Sativa in Harwich Port - My friend’s cousin owns this eco-chic gift shop just a block away from the Nantucket Sound, as well as the fashion-forward Solis next door. You’ll find something for everyone on your list.