Our go-to guide to Sicily hotels

While The White Lotus’s second season majorly renewed interest in Sicily, there’s so much more to this complex Mediterranean island than Taormina’s hilltop idyll. The beauty of Sicily lies in its diversity, from the basalt shoreline at the base of Mt. Etna and the limestone cliffs along the southeastern coast to the rich farmland inland.

I first visited in 1998 and made a seaside village outside Catania my full-time home in 2018. You could spend a lifetime—and I intend to—learning the nuances of this magical place that countless civilizations have called home over the centuries. And where you decide to sleep—whether it’s a restored historic villa, a country farmhouse, or a modern urban oasis—will greatly impact your impression of Italy’s crown jewel. These five Sicilian hotels are some of my very favorites.

In the heart of Catania’s historic center, where (partially) organized chaos is the rule of the land, Habitat offers an urban oasis. Created by hospitality-minded architects—part of the building houses a studio—the whole ethos of the space is built on sustainability, respect for the past, and total immersion of the senses. Once you enter the main door, just steps from the Bellini opera house, you’re transported into a calming Mediterranean courtyard with an aromatic vertical herb garden. Without fail, I can feel my whole body relax the moment I step inside.

Room scene: The vibe is industrial luxury–meets–historic preservation in the property’s 16 rooms, where contemporary furnishings accentuate the building’s historic features. If you can, book a Sky Deluxe room on the top floor, which features velux windows built into the roof for you to take in the cityscape.

Restaurant report: The hotel’s attached restaurant, Materia Spazio Cucina, is a destination in and of itself. Chef Bianca Celano is a leader in modern Sicilian food, working with small producers, keeping an eye on sustainability, and pulling from centuries of tradition to produce stunning dishes that surprise the palate. On a recent visit, I was wowed by the delicate croaker (or ombrina)—a sustainable Mediterranean alternative to sea bass—with oregano and tuna garum (a fermented fish sauce) that was served under a blanket of grilled lettuce.

Don’t miss: Make time for one of the hotel’s curated experiences, such as a visit to Catania’s bustling fish market with chef Celano followed by a cooking class.

Who should go: Urbanites, architecture buffs, and food lovers.

It’s all barefoot chic at Principe di Salina in the heart of Sicily’s Aeolian Islands. White curtains billow along the edge of the open-air living spaces filled with art and objects collected from the owner’s extensive travels. A heated infinity pool looks out over the sea, with views of the Panarea and Stromboli on the horizon. And the hospitality perfectly balances top-notch service with familiar intimacy—when I visit, I feel as if I am staying at the villa of a favorite aunt and uncle. It’s the sort of place where sometimes I don't leave the hotel except to head out on a boat ride.

Room scene: Each of the 12 sun-drenched double rooms—all awash in white—features a small private terrace overlooking the Aeolian Sea, maiolica tiles, locally-made furnishings, and blackout curtains. Two top-floor suites are recent additions, each with lounge areas and large private terraces that are perfect for morning coffee or a sunset cocktail.

Restaurant report: If you’re hungry, the hotel has you well covered: breakfast, lunch, aperitivo, and dinner. This is a family-run property, and at dinnertime, la mamma (Silvana) cooks up a lovingly prepared set menu that combines Sicilian tradition with the highest quality raw ingredients (herbs from the garden, just-caught fish, and hand-crafted pastas). Once a week, they host a special pizza night. Bonus: all the breads and pastries are made in-house.

Don’t miss: Stop for a bit of shopping at the small ground-floor boutique where daughter Anita’s exquisite taste shines.

Who should go: Sun seekers, arbiters of style, and people who want to step out of the fray without going completely off the grid.

Spread out over 1,500 acres in the heart of the Madonie mountains, Susafa offers a breath of fresh air. This stunning fifth-generation farmhouse retreat was first constructed in the early 1700s and a stay here is filled with immersive experiences that will help connect you with the land. In the orchards, you can pick cherries in the morning and then learn to make a cherry crostada (a shortcrust pastry filled with fresh cherries and homemade cherry jam) in the afternoon. Participate in the grain harvest to collect stalks of heirloom Sicilian wheat, which is milled to make the hotel’s bread. Collect olives for their house-label oil. Hike to a picnic under shade trees (part of the family’s dedication to reforestation of the surrounding hillsides). During my last visit, I alternated laps in the pool with laps around the adjacent organic garden, where head gardener Calogero gladly identified the produce and aromatics grown on-site.

Room scene: You won’t find any bold colors in the property’s 18 rooms (which includes eight suites). The immersion into nature and focus on limited environmental impact extends into the guestrooms. The light-filled chambers utilize all natural materials, open directly onto gardens, and rely on renewable energy.

Restaurant report: The restaurant, located in the Masseria’s old granary, serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and also hosts daily hands-on cooking classes, from pasta to cannoli.

Don’t miss: Stargazing. There’s zero light pollution in the area and Susafa has constructed small platforms in the fields where you can lie down and have an incredible view of the night sky with the sensation of floating in space.

Who should go: Sustainability disciples, families with kids over age 12, and anyone who prefers a nature walk over a beach chair.

When I find myself in Sicily’s southwestern corner, I always stop at Maharìa, a boutique hotel in Menfi tucked inside Palazzo Planeta (from the second half of the 18th century). This property delivers a welcome taste of style without sacrificing budget. On my first visit, I couldn’t stop taking photos of the mammoth 100-year-old bougainvillea vine that winds its way from the interior courtyard on the ground floor to a blooming rooftop canopy.

Room scene: The four basic rooms, all located off the upstairs terrace, provide little in the way of luxury, but they’re an incredible deal. There may not be many bells and whistles, but the palazzo is stunning and it’s located in an area surrounded by hotels hitting the $600+ nightly range. It makes for a great place to lay your head after a day of hiking or biking.

Restaurant report: An airy café anchors the back courtyard where baristas pull coffee, and fresh baked goods are available for breakfast and lunch. The well-curated enoteca stocks an impressive selection of more than 200 wines. At dinner, head to the terrace restaurant for local seafood, housemade pastas, and a wine list stacked with boutique producers.

Don’t miss: Take in the expansive art collection on-site and pay a visit to the Maharìa Shop, where you’ll find a well-curated selection of ceramics, clothing, jewelry, and gourmet food products from local artisans.

Who should go: Wallet watchers, culture hounds, and wine enthusiasts.

On the slopes of Mt. Etna (Sicily’s active volcano), this restored masseria from the 19th century stretches over five acres, surrounded by 30-year-old vineyards and gardens rich with native plants. I am continually wowed by the tranquility of Quinto Arco, which is best experienced from the infinity pool with its views stretching down to the Ionian Sea. This intimate little inn, the passion project of Martina Grasso, is where hospitality meets winemaking.

Room scene: It’s all about elegant simplicity in the five spacious guestrooms, where massive windows open onto small balconies with views of Mt. Etna’s summit or onto the vineyard-covered countryside.

Restaurant report: At breakfast, you’re treated to Sicilian specialties such as granita with brioche, typical cakes from the nearby town of Santa Venerina, and a bounty of fresh fruit and Sicilian citrus. There’s no lunch or dinner service on-site, but the Grasso family also owns 4 Archi, just 10 minutes away, where I always go for my fill of rustic fare (hearty meats, arancini made with local kohlrabi, and pastas with wild fennel pesto).

Don’t miss: Visit the restored palmento—a traditional Etna structure for making wine—where the inn hosts tastings of its eponymous red wine atop parquet floors constructed out of old wine barrels.

Who should go: Oenophiles, nature lovers, and garden fanatics.