All Articles One day in Sydney

One day in Sydney

Sydney Hero Image
By Emma Sloley 12 Dec 2022 3 minutes read

When I first moved to Sydney over a decade ago, I was blown away by its eye-popping beauty. The city is the best of Australia distilled into one long stretch that's blessed with wildly gorgeous scenery, fringed by sandy beaches, and full of cultural and culinary gems. It's also got a seriously laid back vibe, which means locals don't take themselves. People commute in flip-flops, breakfast stretches into the afternoon, homegrown celebrities take the bus (like Cate Blanchett famously did to an awards ceremony a few years back), and the oceanside swimming pools are open to all. There's so much to explore here, it's impossible to fit it all into a day, but you'll have a blast trying.

The Morning

Trust me, every morning should start with breakfast at Humble Bakery in Surry Hills, an inner-city neighborhood with working class roots and lots of swagger. The bakery is owned by Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz, two rockabilly, inked-up chefs, who made their name with nearby grill hotspots Porteño and Bodega. Pull up a stool at the communal table and order a flat white with a side of nostalgic Australiana in the form of a lamington (a square sponge cake dipped in chocolate and coconut flakes) or a finger bun topped with hot-pink icing.

Humble Bakery

From there, it’s a 10 minute stroll to my favorite art venue, the Brett Whiteley Studio. One of Australia’s most famous artists, Whiteley was a prolific painter and his former workplace and home feels just as he left it, with unfinished paintings, postcards, sketchbooks, and all. 

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Brett Whiteley Studio This smaller Sydney gallery space never disappoints. It showcases works by the artist, whose diverse materials and techniques include painting, drawing, sculpture, mixed media and printmaking. The upstairs studio space has been totally preserved...

To experience more Aussie creativity, head to nearby Paddington, where you'll find some standout clothing boutiques. Start with Parlour X, a one-stop-shop for haute brands like Isabel Marant and Balenciaga along with homegrown labels like Bassike (stock up on their soft cotton t-shirts). Then make your way to the Paddington Markets for Australian-made artisan goods, clothing, and accessories—some of the country’s biggest designers got their start here.  

You'll hopefully be hungry by now and lunch is in Bondi, the beachside suburb with the famous public swimming club Icebergs. The lap pool overlooking Bondi Beach is unreal, with layers of blue (sky, pool, ocean) and waves crashing against the side. You cannot leave Sydney without going for a dip. If you’re feeling like a meal splurge, join the high rollers at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, with its dramatic water views. But for a more budget-friendly hang, nearby Porch and Parlour keeps it casual with grilled cheeses and kimchi open sandwiches. My go-to is the “one hander,” a milk bun with fried egg, bacon, coleslaw, and relish.  

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Porch and Parlour Delicious pea pancake & avocado meal and very good coffee. Excellent coffee. Very welcoming staff. A lovely shelter on a windy day. Thanks lads.

All fueled up, put on your kicks and take the Bondi to Coogee Coastal Walk. It perfectly captures what makes Sydney so uniquely alluring: the clifftop trail is both urbane and wild, with knockout vistas of iconic beaches, café pit stops, Aboriginal rock carvings, and public artworks during the Sculptures by the Sea exhibition every spring.


 My favorite Sydney beaches and pools


The Afternoon

The Circular Quay port is the jumping-off point for exploring Sydney Harbour, home to the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, and the Museum of Contemporary Art (dont's miss its incredible indigenous art collection). While you could spend all day hopping on and off ferries, my destination of choice for a relaxed afternoon is Manly. The charming northern suburb has the good looks and lowkey vibe of a resort town, with an open-air pedestrian mall lined with surf shops, pubs, and ice cream stores. Once you've checked that out, skip the crowds on Manly Beach and take the trail to the quieter Shelly Beach, a sheltered rocky cove where the swimming and snorkeling are first-rate. And if you’re feeling hungry, I love nearby Sunset Sabi for handmade gyozas and sashimi plates. 

Sunset Sabi
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Sunset Sabi Tried the special starter of scallops, the shitake mushroom tacos and definitely need to save room for dessert....Enjoyed every mouthful and the attentive service.

The Night

Sydney is a food-and-wine-obsessed city, and the sheer diversity and number of restaurants can be daunting. You’ll find the haute tables, of course, but also hole-in-the-wall Thai and lunch-only ramen, too. I recommend you skip the flashy, big-night-out spots for a cozy neighborhood joint like Red Lantern. Set in a chic terrace house in Darlinghurst, the kitchen whips up Vietnamese-inspired street food and wok-tossed dishes to share. I love the turmeric and corn cake with blue swimmer crab and the lemon cured kingfish with rice paddy herbs.

Red Lantern
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Red Lantern Exceptional food and service. I recently had a fantastic evening here with my wife. Some of the best Vietnamese food I’ve had and I live in in South East Asia! Definitely worth a visit and book in advance.

You can always call it a night post-dinner, but why not catch a performance at the Belvoir Street Theatre? The legendary space in the back streets of Surry Hills always has something interesting going on, from musicals to comedy shows. Then go for a late-night drink and cheese plate at Dear Sainte Eloise. It's a stylish wine bar with excellent pours from Australia and Europe and always a good scene.


Only-In-Sydney

No matter what you choose to do in Syndey, the best experiences come with inredible views. So here are 10 ways to see the city from high above, above, close up, and in the distance.


The Hotels

If I could live at the Park Hyatt Sydney, I’d happily move in later today. You just have to see the views of Sydney Harbour from the suites and you're sold. Here are four other traveler favorites that are just as sweet.

  • Out of the Box & Amazing
    It’s rare to find a place where location and accommodation align with an individual feel. The Old Clare, as the name suggests, has character and plenty of it. The rooms are very spacious and well...
  • Absolute Brilliance.
    Twhat an amazing funky and hospitable hotel, they accommodated an early check-in and managed my bags till my room was ready,, took care on setting up my room and even managed to ensure I was well...
  • Found a gem
    Traveled from the US and booked this last minute. So glad we did. Perfect location, great service and funky rooms. Bars and restaurants in there were buzzing. We highly recommend to stay there if...
Emma Sloley
Emma Sloley is a former editor at Harper’s Bazaar Australia whose travel writing has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, New York magazine, Departures, and Virtuoso Life, among others. She is the author of the novel Disaster’s Children and is currently at work on her second book.