3 perfect days in Lagos

Take my advice: If you’re coming to the Algarve region, put a stop in Lagos on your itinerary. The seaside town is big on beauty, with golden-sand beaches, secluded coves, and cobblestoned streets that form a postcard-perfect backdrop. Add to that its 2000-year-old history and you’ve got more than enough to keep you entertained for three days.

The best part about Lagos is that you can reach almost everything on foot. This itinerary covers all the highlights, from historic landmarks in Old Town to the best sunset-viewing spots along the cliffs. I’ve also included plenty of advice from fellow Tripadvisor users, so you know these recommendations are the best of the best.

While it’s tempting to head straight to the beach, get your bearings first by wandering around the Old Town. Take a walk along the waterfront promenade on Avenida dos Descobrimentos, catching a glimpse of the boats heading out into the harbor.

You’ll soon spot the crowds heading through the arched entrance to the Mercado Municipal de Lagos. This century-old market is where many locals go to stock up on fresh produce, especially early on Saturday mornings. Fishmongers take over the ground floor, while the stalls upstairs are filled with fruit and vegetable vendors. The Algarve grows some of the country’s sweetest oranges, and I always get some for myself here, along with organic honey and locally pressed olive oil. Don’t miss the colorful mural depicting the goods sold at the market next to the steps leading up to the rooftop cafe.

After exploring the market, venture south towards the Museu Municipal Dr. José Formosinho. Founded by a Portuguese archaeologist, this museum is a mishmash of items, many dating from the Neolithic to the Roman era. But I add this museum to the list because it gives you admission to the adjoining Igreja de Santo António. Behind the church’s unassuming exterior is an impressive Baroque interior filled with gilded carvings, fresco ceilings, and brilliantly colored Portuguese tiles. It’s one of the most eye-popping spots in town.

Feeling hungry about now? Head a few doors down to Mar d’Estórias. Housed in a former Renaissance chapel (there are a couple of period details here and there), this pretty little restaurant focuses on seafood dishes like codfish cakes and octopus salad. For dessert, my favorite is the Dom Rodrigo, a regional sweet made with egg yolk, sugar, and almonds. More than a restaurant, Mar d’Estórias is also home to a gallery, gift shop, and a rooftop bar.

After lunch, walk a few minutes north to the Mercado de Escravos. In the 15th century, Lagos was home to one of Europe’s first slave markets. Now converted into a museum, this building with an arched stone entrance covers this dark chapter in Portugal’s history. The exhibits aren’t as illuminating as they could be, but I think the museum is a good introduction to this period.

Head back towards the waterfront, keeping an eye out for the olive trees lining the Jardim da Constituição. In the center is the Castelo dos Governadores, a medieval castle with what remains of the walls that once encircled the entire town. Look for a small, ornate window in one of the facades. Legend says that this is where Portuguese King Sebastião said his final prayers before heading off to battle in Morocco. (Things didn’t go well for him there, and the Spanish soon ruled Portugal.)

LAGOS OLD TOWN AREA TOUR OPTIONS

If you want a sneak peek of the beach before dinner, head south to the sandy Praia da Batata. This is the beach where locals go when they just want to cool off. The closer it is to sunset, the prettier the views will be. Back in town, it’s time for dinner at No Pátio. The best tables are on the terrace beneath a trellis covered with bright pink bougainvillea. The grilled tuna and the caramelized goat cheese are among my favorite dishes.

No Pátio is located near Rua 25 de Abril, Lagos’s bustling nightlife strip. Kick off the evening (or wrap up a night) with a beer at Mynt Bar, where you’ll often catch live performances on the raised stage. From here, you have your pick of dozens of nearby bars.

Lagos is the jumping-off point for many boat tours across the coast. Make your way to the Marina de Lagos, where you’ll find boats heading to nearby sea caves like the spectacular Algar de Benagil, with its ceiling open to the sky.

You could also cruise out to the dramatic headland of Ponta da Piedade, famous for rock formations jutting out of the ocean. The curious shapes formed by the waves and the wind over the years have earned themselves nicknames like “The Elephant” or “The Titanic.” If you’re lucky, you may even spot a dolphin or two on your way here. Whichever tour you choose, you’ll most likely return in about an hour and a half.

MARINA DE LAGOS AREA TOUR OPTIONS

Back on dry land, take a stroll around the marina before grabbing a bite at one of the surrounding restaurants. I recommend Tasca da Lota for the delicious grilled fish. In the summer, the large glass doors are flung wide open so that you can smell the fresh sardines from miles away. The charcoal grill is right by the entrance, so you can watch the staff at work. Order the fish of the day, then kick back in the casual dining room under a tangle of fishing nets.

Cross the bridge to the other end of the stream, then take a 10-minute taxi ride (or 15-minute bus ride) to Praia Dona Ana, one of the best beaches in Lagos. Sheltered by sandstone cliffs, it has calm turquoise waters and soft golden sand. It’s a popular spot for families because of the seasonal lifeguards, convenient parking, and nearby cafés.

You can also continue a bit further south to Praia do Camilo. (There’s a path along the cliffs, but it can occasionally be closed). Be sure to wear sunscreen, as most of this stretch is exposed. Camilo Beach is a much smaller cove accessible via a long wooden staircase. Standing at the top, you get a great view of the water below. It’s best to head here at low tide, when there’s more space. Camilo Beach is also a prime spot for snorkeling, as the sea is fairly calm.

Keep walking south for another 15 or 20 minutes to reach the Ponta da Piedade. You may have seen it from a distance on your morning boat trip, but this headland is even better close up. It’s among the best spots to watch the sunset in Lagos. Stretch your towel along the top of the cliff and watch the golden rays take over the sky. Pack a bottle of wine (you can pick up a Portuguese wine, like Fiuza or Herdade do Peso, for less than a fiver at the supermarket) and a sweater, because it can get windy as soon as the sun goes down.

Then return to Praia do Camilo to grab a seafood dinner at O Camilo. A favorite of mine, this restaurant has been in the same family for over 40 years and is still going strong. Order clams and oysters harvested from the nearby Ria de Alvor as a starter, then move on to the grilled golden bream or sardines (when in season).

Kick off your third day with breakfast at Black and White, near the Old Town. This minimalist space is known for its specialty coffees, so I like to start with a flat white while I browse through the menu. If I’m in a savory mood, I usually go for the brioche stuffed with fried eggs, avocado, and hash browns. But if I’m after something sweet, I always go for the stack of pancakes with streaky bacon.

You’ll need all the energy you can to tackle today’s hike along the coast. Pick up where you left off yesterday near Ponta da Piedade, then make your way along the cliffs to Praia do Porto de Mós, one of the longest beaches in Lagos. Surrounded by a tall headland, this beach stretches as far as the eye can see. On a clear day you can see all the way to Sagres, on the western tip of the Algarve. The farther you are from the center of the beach, the smaller the crowds will be in summer.

Alternatively, you can skip the hike and hop on the train east to Meia Praia and spend the morning relaxing by the beach. This is also a prime spot for surfing, and there are a couple of schools here that can hook you up with lessons if you feel like chasing the waves.

Head back to the center of Lagos and treat yourself to a seafood feast at Marisqueira O Perceve. Most ingredients on the menu come from this stretch of the coastline, including barnacles, oysters, prawns, and limpets (that last one is a snail with a conical shell). Take my advice and order one of the traditional dishes like cataplana do mar, a seafood stew cooked in a clam-shaped copper pan.

After lunch, consider a trip to Monte da Casteleja, a winery that specializes in organic wines. It’s a 10-minute drive from the center, but well worth the trip. There are guided tours from Tuesday to Thursday that take you through the vineyards and into the winery for a tasting. Be sure to book one in advance, as it’s a popular place.

Return to your hotel to freshen up, then head back to the marina for a drink and some tapas at the waterfront Southwest Bistro. Take a seat on the terrace or beside the window for the best views of the boats in the distance. I like coming here with friends so that I can try several different dishes in one go. Some of my favorite small plates include the olive tapenade and the goat cheese gratin. They also have a great selection of burgers (including vegan options), plus mouthwatering chocolate brownies.

If you’re feeling homesick, head to Ol’ Bastard’s. The Brits have left their mark on the Algarve, and this fish-and-chips spot is proof of that. Order your meal British-style (with salt and malt vinegar), Australian (paired with a salad), or American (topped with cajun seasoning). If you’ve had your fill of fish, they also serve some mean tacos.

WINE-TASTING TOUR OPTIONS