An insider’s guide to fall in Vermont

Let’s be honest: Almost every fall lover has Vermont on their wish list, whether for the changing leaves, the cozy B&Bs, or the seasonal treats like cider donuts or maple syrup (the Vermont clichés are often the best part, in my opinion). But here's the thing. Not everyone knows where to go for the best version of those things, or how to experience them without the crowds.

Thankfully, as a Vermonter, I do—and I’ve rounded up what I’ll call some “not as well known but possibly even better” spots to help you enjoy fall in Vermont like an insider.

All Vermonters know the best fall colors aren’t found on the roadside. If you really want to see some gorgeous leaves, you’ve got to lace up your hiking boots and hit the trails. Mount Mansfield in Stowe, Camel’s Hump in Waterbury, and Bald Mountain in Woodford have some great leaf peeping, but also worth checking out are more off-the-beaten-path options. My favorites are Shrewsbury Peak in the Killington area, Moss Glen Falls in Stowe, and Windmill Mountain in Townshend.

I live in Stowe (one of the most popular places in the entire state for foliage) and here's my best-kept secret: the best hikes in the area are around Sterling Valley. There's a short jaunt to a beautiful waterfall, but for the perfect half-day hike, I like to do the Upper Gorge Loop. It may be missing an iconic lookout spot, but the trails are never crowded, and you'll see plenty of pretty leaves. Keep your eyes peeled for historic home sites, too.

A tip: No matter where you hike, the trails will likely be crowded midday and into the afternoon. That’s why I like to set my alarm early and do a sunrise hike instead. Just bring a headlamp or flashlight if it’s still dark when you start. And don't forget a water bottle.

Apple cider donuts are king in Vermont during the fall. You can’t go wrong with a bagful from Cold Hollow Cider Mill in Waterbury, especially if you also get the house-brewed cider. But plenty of locals will claim their favorite donut comes from a little gas station or general store, so don’t be afraid to follow those hand-written signs on the side of the road.

I also love the apple fritters from North Country Donuts in Morrisville—they’re roughly the size of your head and worth every sticky finger. Heads up, though: it’s only open Friday through Sunday.

It tends to get busy with both locals and tourists, but Woodland Baking and Coffee in Stowe is a must for croissants, Danishes, and other treats made with Vermont whole grains. And Red Hen Baking Co. in Middlesex is the place to go for fresh, hearty bread as well as sandwiches like the turkey with cranberry.

And no visit to Vermont is complete without a creemee. This soft-serve ice cream–like treat is more of a summer thing, but there are plenty of stands and shops that sell it well into the fall. The most authentic spots serve just one flavor: maple. Elmore Sugarhouse on Lake Elmore is my favorite, and it’s open through October 15.

Vermont and craft beer go together like peanut butter and porters. If you want to try a ton, base yourself in Burlington, where there’s a high concentration of excellent brewers, both old school and more modern. Switchback, Foam Brewers, and Zero Gravity are some of my top picks.

Not a beer drinker? Don’t worry, there are still plenty of drink options across the state. Vergennes (pronounced VER-jens) has Shacksbury, a cidery that I love for its organic ciders like the Deer Snacks. There’s also Fable Farm Fermentory in Barnard, where you can try cyser (apple mead) made with birch sap, raw honey, sumac, yarrow, elderflower, and dandelions.

For a “can’t find it anywhere else” experience, head to Barr Hill, a distillery in the state capital of Montpelier that makes gin from local honey. Tour the facility, and don’t leave without visiting the on-site bar for a Cat’s Pajamas, a honey-flavored cocktail made with Barr Hill’s signature barrel-aged gin.

We all idealize Vermont’s quaint bed-and-breakfasts. And while there’s definitely something special about spending the night in an old farmhouse and waking up to freshly baked scones, it’s also nice to check in somewhere a bit more modern—with amenities like organic bedding and gourmet dining.

Hill Farm by Sagra in the southern Vermont town of Manchester is a real-deal, old-school dairy farm that’s been converted into a luxurious inn. I love the stylish rooms in the main farmhouse, but you can also book one of the cottages (with a full kitchen and living room) if you need more space. Make sure to have at least one dinner at the on-site restaurant (the chef used to work at Blue Hill Stone Barns in New York), and say “hi” to the resident alpacas.

Another of my favorite stays is The Farm House, an 1800s farmhouse turned rental home in the picture-perfect ski town of Stowe. It’s right off Main Street and has six bedrooms, plus an outdoor fire pit, bicycles, and tons of games that make it perfect for group getaways. It's a real secret, though—the owners manage it themselves (in addition to my favorite home goods store in town).