All Articles The second-timer's guide to Paris

The second-timer's guide to Paris

Canal cruises, less-crowded museums, vegan macarons, and more.

By Margot Bigg20 Mar 2023 4 minutes read
Panoramic aerial view of Paris cityscape and Saint-Eustache Church
A panoramic view of the Paris cityscape, featuring the Saint-Eustache Church
Image: Alexander Spatari/Getty Images

Paris is one of those enchanting places that keeps people coming back again and again. The French capital simply has too much culture, history, and elegance to pack into one trip—and even if you were able to see most of Paris’s iconic attractions on your first visit, there’s much, much more to uncover.

Ready to let Paris captivate you all over again? Follow this guide for a deeper dive.

You’ve been to the top of the Eiffel Tower, now go to Montparnasse Tower’s observation deck

There’s no better place to see Paris in all its panoramic glory than from the Montparnasse Tower, which was the tallest skyscraper in the country from when it was built in the early 1970s up until 2011. From your vantage point on the tower’s 656-foot-high indoor observation deck, you’ll be able to see the city’s most recognizable landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame Cathedral. There’s also an open-air rooftop terrace at the top of the tower for those who want to photograph the city without windows getting in the way.

You’ve taken a sightseeing cruise on the Seine, now ride through the Canal Saint-Martin locks

Canal Saint Martin, Paris
Canal Saint-Martin, Paris
Image: espiegle/Getty Images

Taking a boat ride down the Seine River is a quintessential Paris experience, but it’s certainly not the only way to enjoy the city’s waterways. If you want to see a different, less-touristed side of town, you need only float down the Canal Saint-Martin, which stretches for nearly three miles from the Seine to the Canal de l’Ourcq. Most cruises start near the Seine, passing through an eerie subterranean section of the canal before resurfacing in a trendy stretch of the 10th arrondissement that’s dotted with brasseries and boutiques. Cruises then continue onward, ferrying visitors through locks and under bridges before terminating at the Bassin de la Villette in the 19th arrondissement.

You’ve strolled through the Luxembourg Gardens, now hike through the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

A longtime favorite of Parisian joggers and picnickers, the hilly, 61-acre Parc des Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement has miles of paved footpaths, making it an excellent place to get your steps in while surrounded by nature. Park features include a grotto with a man-made waterfall and a massive artificial lake, where ducks and other waterfowl come to swim. In the center of the lake is a craggy island, crowned by a Roman-style temple and accessible via two bridges (including a suspension bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel of Eiffel Tower fame).

What one traveler thought about the Parc des Buttes-Chaumont:

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"This is not on the regular tourist track but we came after a day at a museum. …We got picnic supplies right outside the Metro stop and walked to the park, which was so full of Parisians. It was fun to feel like we were surrounded by locals. …There was that ball game being played at the top (beside the public toilet) and tons of picnickers and families playing."

You’ve lined up for lunch at L’As du Fallafel, now dine on Indian with a French touch at the Passage Brady

L’As du Fallafel in the Jewish Quarter is beloved for its massive fallafel pitas, but on your second trip to Paris, skip the line and head to the Passage Brady in the 10th arrondissement for a decidedly different meal. This 19th-century iron-and-glass arcade is full of Indian restaurants, many of which offer seating right in the arcade. While you’re sure to find familiar dishes like tandoori chicken and palak paneer, extensive wine menus and naan stuffed with Laughing Cow cheese will remind you that you are still very much in France.

You’ve experienced the Louvre, now check out the Petit Palais

Petit Palais, Paris
Petit Palais, Paris
Image: Pierre Antoine

Originally constructed for the 1900 Universal Exhibition, the Petit Palais is a spectacular example of Beaux-Arts architecture, with a grand, dome-style entryway and wings that wrap around a semicircular courtyard. The structure houses the City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts, where you can easily spend hours browsing an extensive collection of art dating from the pre-Christian era through the early 20th century—without the crowds (or ticket prices) of the Louvre. Noteworthy pieces in the free-to-view permanent collection include Claude Monet's “Sunset on the Seine at Lavacourt, Winter Effect” and Albrecht Dürer's “Knight, Death, and the Devil” engraving.

What one Triapavisor user had to say about the Petit Palais:

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"I love museums but a museum for free? I had to see it for myself. The building is stunning, as many buildings in Paris are, and the permanent collection is free for all visitors. The highlight for me was the collection of Impressionists. I noticed both locals and tourists alike strolling through the building, many with young children."

You’ve feasted on macarons at Pierre Hermé and Ladurée, now try a plant-based take at VG Pâtisserie

Chocolates at VG Pâtisserie
Chocolates at VG Pâtisserie
Image: Courtesy of VG Pâtisserie

If you’ve been to Paris and have a sweet tooth, you’ve probably had your fill of macarons at popular spots like Pierre Hermé and Ladurée, both of which offer the sweet treats in seemingly every color and flavor imaginable. On your second visit, try a vegan twist on the famous dessert at VG Pâtisserie, which has been making authentic macarons without dairy or eggs since 2016. Don’t miss the macaron lychee coco rose, made with fresh lychee and pink coconut cream.

You’ve marveled at the Notre-Dame Cathedral, now admire the Church of Saint Eustache

Built in the 16th century, the massive Church of Saint Eustache on the Right Bank is noteworthy for its mix of architectural styles, with its Flamboyant-Gothic exterior and interiors that merge Renaissance and classical details. Once inside, remember to look up. You’ll see vaulted ceilings and Doric columns adorned with intricate sculptures as well as centuries-old religious murals and vibrant stained glass. The church is also known for having one of the largest pipe organs in the country, which you can hear in action during free Sunday concerts.

You’ve taken a day trip to the Palace of Versailles, now head north to the Château de Chantilly

Chateau de Chantilly
Chateau de Chantilly
Image: vladj55/Getty Images

While many visitors to Paris consider it a must to visit the grandiose Palace of Versailles, relatively few make it out to the Château de Chantilly, only an hour from the city by car or train. Here, you'll find sprawling lawns, impeccably maintained princely suits (some of which feature the same gilded touches found in Versailles), and a gorgeous, two-level library decorated with frescoes and floor-to-ceiling walls of old tomes.

What one reviewer though about Château de Chantilly:

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"I have been to France more than a dozen times, but never knew about Chateau Chantilly. This is a spectacular place: amazing architecture, royal history, art collection, stables, and grounds—all within a short distance of Paris. While it doesn't have the cachet & is smaller than Versailles, I think that you actually get a better experience: no hours-long lines or jostling conveyor-belt style through the exhibits and rooms."

The chateau is also the site of the Musée Condé, which houses France’s second largest collection of antique paintings (after the Louvre), including the 15th-century “Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry” (among the world’s best-known and best-preserved illuminated manuscripts).

Margot Bigg
Margot Bigg is an award-winning journalist and editor specializing in travel and the arts. She grew up in the US and the UK and spent much of her adult life living overseas, first in France, where she earned an MA in European Studies from Sciences Po Paris, and then in India, where she worked as an editor for Time Out Magazine. Margot's stories have appeared in publications around the world, including including National Geographic Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Rolling Stone, Lonely Planet, Afar, VICE, and The Times of India. She’s also the author of three India guidebooks for Moon Guides and has co-authored guidebooks on India, Oregon, and U.S. road trips for Fodor’s.