3 perfect days in Malta

Malta is an eclectic, thrilling mix of Italian, Arab, and British influences (Union Jack souvenirs, red telephone booths, left-side driving and all). But as I learned during a weeklong vacation there, the mashup of cultures and civilizations makes for a totally unique and unforgettable trip. The Mediterranean archipelago is one of the few places I’ve ever visited where you can hit the beach, explore 16th-century palazzos, go for a spin in a colorful Luzzu fishing boat, and see ruins that predate the Pyramids of Giza—all before 1 p.m.

There’s a lot to see, which can make Malta a bit intimidating for first timers. But fear not: I’ve put together the ultimate three-day itinerary that combines all the best-known sights plus under-the-radar recommendations and tips from seasoned Tripadvisor travelers. Let’s dive in!

Get your bearings in Malta’s alluring capital, Valletta, a fortified city built by the Knights of Saint John in the 16th century. You might recognize its stunning architecture and honey-hued streets from Game of Thrones and films like Gladiator and Troy. But Valletta is more than a photo op—it’s a fascinating portal into ancient civilization. Beeline to Fort Saint Elmo to learn about the role of the iconic clifftop fortress during the Great Siege of 1565. Touring the fort’s ramparts, barracks, and underground tunnels is a thrilling immersion into Malta’s history.

From here, walk 10 minutes to St. John’s Co-Cathedral—the archipelago’s most impressive church—which was built in the 1570s as a place for the Knights’ worship. The Baroque interiors will stop you in your tracks, but the real treasure is a huge painting of John the Baptist by Caravaggio. Did you know it’s the artist’s largest painting, and the only one he ever signed? Tip: Leave your heels at home—stilettos are forbidden to protect the marble floor!

Your final sightseeing stop before lunch is Valletta’s City Gate project—a master plan dreamed up by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Renzo Piano, who reimagined the new City Gate, the Parliament building, and the Royal Opera House, which was destroyed by bombs during WWII. The revitalization is a stunning mix of old and new. I recommend checking the theater’s schedule in advance to catch an open-air performance of popular operas like Aida.

Fuel up at Valletta’s Legligin bistro, which specializes in hyper-local dishes like fish soup or slow-cooked rabbit with creamy mustard and tarragon. While the setting is rustic, the five-course lunch menus are seriously gourmet—and don’t sleep on the wine pairings!

Next, get a slice of authentic Maltese life by exploring the Three Cities: the harborside towns of Vittoriosa, Senglea, and Cospicua, located directly across Valletta’s Grand Harbour. You can take an Uber there, but for an unique experience, I recommend zipping across the water in a traditional Luzzu fishing boat. It whisks you from the base of Fort Lascaris to a dock near Boiler Wharf.

In Vittoriosa, history buffs will want to make a beeline for Fort St Angelo and the Malta Maritime Museum to learn about the island’s military heritage. St. Lawrence’s Catholic Church is another can’t miss; the Roman-Baroque icon was designed by Malta’s most prominent Baroque architect, Lorenzo Gafà.

The other two cities, Cospicua and Senglea, were heavily bombed during WWII, but there are still beautiful landmarks to seek out. Cospicua, the largest of the Three Cities, has winding streets, a beautiful marina, and impressive fortifications, while Senglea arguably has the best view of Valletta from the photogenic Safe Haven Gardens.

Malta is one of the smallest wine-producing countries in the world, with less than 2,000 acres of vineyards. Still, it’s one of the only places where you can try local grapes like girgentina (a white variety) and gellewza (a red variety). Learn more about the country’s fascinating wine culture at Marsovin in Marsa, just outside Valletta. The 75-minute tour includes visiting the 400-year-old cellars and sipping the winery’s best-known bottles, including a sparkling wine produced using the Méthode Traditionelle, a.k.a the double fermentation process used to make Champagne.

Hungry? Drive 15 minutes to the elegant Corinthia Palace hotel, home to Bahia restaurant, where guests can choose from á la carte or tasting menus with dishes named after different local cities and landmarks. The Comino entrée, which takes its name from the small Maltese island, features miso-glazed pork collar with fennel kimchi and yuzu aioli. Meanwhile, the harbor town of Msida has inspired a risotto topped with local pecorino cheese and a drizzle of black pepper oil.

From Valletta, it’s a 30-minute journey to the walled city of Mdina—Malta’s one-time capital—whether you rent a car or take public transit (look for the number 51, 52, or 53 bus). Once you arrive, stroll the labyrinth-like streets in search of St Paul’s Cathedral, which features paintings by the Italian Baroque artist Mattia Preti. Next-door Palazzo de Piro, a 17th-century mansion home to two museums—the Mdina Cathedral Museum and the Museum of Tools, Trades, and Traditions—hosts art exhibitions and jazz performances regularly. Don’t leave without stopping to enjoy a coffee in the panoramic courtyard.

If you’re not tired of museums, continue to Palazzo Falson Historic House to marvel at decorative arts, including Venetian glassware and Oriental carpets. Or, make your way out of the walled city, pausing to take a breather in the small square of Pjazza Mesquita, which you may recognize from Game of Thrones.

Just outside of the Mdina Gate is Step 15, a casual bistro on Saqqajja hill with tables scattered on a scenic terrace that overlooks the palm-studded countryside (be sure to call ahead to reserve an outdoor seat). Settle in for a long, leisurely lunch, ordering fresh Mediterranean fare like burrata with pistachio pesto or local sea bass with sloe gin and citrus jam.

Once you’re fueled up, it’s time to explore Rabat, the town adjoining Mdina, where the main attraction is St Paul’s Catacombs, a Roman burial site covering 2,000 square meters. While I wouldn’t recommend this attraction to those with claustrophobia, it is a fascinating underground world—and the largest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta.

Prefer fresh air? Drive 20 minutes to the coast to take in the water views and limestone cliffs that make up the Blue Grotto, one of Malta’s most postcard-perfect landscapes!

For more seaside scenery, consider spending the rest of your day in the coastal town of Sliema, a popular vacation spot in the northeast of Malta. Stretch out on Balluta Bay Beach—an eye-popping stretch of sand backed by the magnificent Knisja tal-Karmnu church—or stroll the boardwalk connecting Sliema and the neighboring resort town of Saint Julian’s.

You’re in luck: If you’re celebrating a special occasion, I have just the place for you. Drive 10 minutes northwest of Sliema to Madliena Lodge, a romantic hilltop restaurant with a sprawling outdoor terrace and sweeping views of the sea. It’s worth going at dusk just as the sky becomes streaked with pink. On colder nights, you can choose a table indoors in a covered courtyard next to a wood-burning fireplace. Savor Italian specials like homemade gnocchi with charred octopus and preserved lemon, then top it off with Sicilian ice cream.

Malta is made up of five islands: Malta (the largest), Gozo, Comino, and the uninhabited islets of Kemmunett and Filfla. If you’re feeling active, you can easily do Gozo (the second largest island) and Comino (the smallest) together by joining an organized boat tour. However, it’s worth noting that many travelers dedicate at least one full day to discovering the charms of Gozo, which is home to dozens of beaches and scuba-diving sites as well as around 46 churches.

The ferry from Malta to Comino takes approximately 30 minutes. Once you’ve arrived, you’re mere steps away from the island’s most iconic sight: the world-famous Blue Lagoon, a natural pool with turquoise waters and rocky shores. Spend the morning there, soaking up the sun and grabbing casual bites from the food trucks parked at the site (there’s everything from ice cream to burgers). Or, lace up your hiking boots and hit the trails that wind around the car-free island and lead to attractions like Santa Marija Tower, built by the Knights in 1618 and famous for its cameo in the Count of Monte Cristo.

Dedicate your afternoon to exploring the neighboring island of Gozo. In 2017, the island’s most photographed natural landmark—the limestone arched Azure Window—collapsed into the sea; however, Gozo still offers plenty of attractions in the form of salt pans, wineries and breweries, and the alluring capital city of Victoria. Oh, and did I mention all the churches?!

Though most guidebooks recommend renting a car, you can cross off many of the top sights via the public bus or the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing bus, which makes 14 scenic stops over the course of 2.5 hours. You can pick it up at the Mgarr Harbour ferry terminal but be advised that service ends each day at 3:45.

If you’re doing a self-guided day trip, I recommend starting with lunch at one80 Kitchen, conveniently located at the Mgarr Yacht Marina. There, tuck into crowd-pleasing plates like linguini vongole, Gillardeau oysters, and shellfish towers on the panoramic terrace, overlooking the boat-lined harbor.

Then, take the 301 bus a half-hour to Victoria, where the main attraction is the jaw-dropping hilltop Citadel. There are a series of chapels within the complex as well as an archeology museum, but most visitors come for the stunning bird’s-eye views.

After, hop back onto the 310 bus and make your way to the island’s Xwejni Salt Pans, a working salt farm where you can take in the lunar-like scenery and buy some salt to take home. Fun fact: Three salt farmers tend to these salt flats, which consist of shallow square pools along Gozo’s northern coast.

I recommend taking the ferry back to Malta around sunset to bask in the golden hour lighting. Once you’ve freshened up, make your way to the Michelin-starred Harbour Club for a memorable last meal. Set inside an 18th-century warehouse overlooking Grand Harbour, this high-end restaurant has one of the city’s most enviable perches, plus interiors crafted from the deck of a ship. The main allure? The creative, beautifully plated dishes, each of which are named after a different street in the Maltese capital. Your order: Old Theatre Street (charcoal-fired calamari with green curry and wild chard leaves), followed by Strait Street (local pork filet with za’atar and spiced carrots), and the St. Ursula Street (coffee brioche doughnuts).