3 perfect days in Albufeira

The resort town of Albufeira was once a low key fishing village where my family would spend lazy summers clamming and beach bumming. Now it’s one of the largest coastal escapes in the Algarve with luxe hotels, glitzy marinas, and bars restaurants and clubs open until the wee hours. But this isn’t to say Albufeira's old charms have gone. It still has the freshest seafood I've ever tasted and the most beautiful stretches of sand bordered by craggy rock cliffs and white-washed villas.

The three-day itinerary below combines the old Albufeira with the new, highlighting some of my favorite spots along with those loved by fellow Tripadvisor travelers.

Albufeira’s Centro Histórico has changed a lot over the years, but there are still traces of its Moorish past if you know where to look. Wander around the streets near the Porta do Norte city gate and you’ll find what remains of the Muralha do Castelo, the last bits of the city walls. Nearby is the Porta Sant’Ana, another entrance to the city, next to which you’ll find a building with a facade covered in seashells.

Further down, at Praça da República, are a few houses dating back to when the city was a Moorish stronghold, along with the Museu Municipal de Arqueologia. This small archaeological museum displays many of the treasures found in the area, including the remains of a mosaic floor from the Roman era.

From here, you can walk to Rua 5 de Outubro. Paved with traditional black and white cobblestones, this street is now packed with souvenir shops. Some can be a bit tacky, but Pau de Pita at Number 60 sells an impressive selection of Portuguese ceramics and artisanal soaps.

It’s time to grab some lunch. Luckily, there’s no shortage of options in the area. For a traditional meal, head to the family-run Solgamba. You can’t go wrong with the grilled fish dishes. My favorite is the robalo (sea bass), but you can also try the sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) or lulinhas fritas (fried squid). The three-course menu do dia is a great deal for lunch.

Alternatively, you can try an array of Indian dishes at Spice Lounge. Start with the crispy onion bhaji, battered and fried to perfection, then move on to the chicken xacuti, a Goan-style coconut curry. (My family is half Goan, so I order this one a lot). Both places are surprisingly affordable for spots so close to the beach.

Once you’ve had your fill, walk south towards the Esplanada Dr. Frutuoso da Silva. From here, you can usually catch the Elevador Do Peneco—an actual elevator—down to the beach at Praia do Peneco. Even if the lift isn’t working, it’s still worth heading here to admire the sea views from the top. You can also reach the beach via a tunnel at the end of Rua 5 de Outubro, which is why some people call this Praia do Túnel (Tunnel Beach). Its central location makes it a popular spot for families. There are many facilities here, including showers, restrooms, and a handful of cafés.

Linger over a drink by the beach or try Sal Rosa on the street above to take in the sweeping views. The colorful cocktails make it worth the climb. Afterward, make your way east to Praia dos Pescadores, a slightly wider beach than Praia do Peneco. This is where the town’s pescadores (fishermen) used to unload their boats after a day at sea. Wrap up your afternoon by taking in the sunset from the top of the cliffs at Miradouro do Pau da Bandeira (an escalator gets you there in no time).

You can easily spend hours on the beach, as many of the nearby bars host sunset parties in the summer. The rest of the year, you’re best off heading to the center of town for a drink. The bars along Rua Cândido dos Reis and Avenida 25 de Abril are your best bet. The Dominos Bar is always pretty lively, but I prefer to skip the crowds and hang out with a local crowd at the family-run O Paulo.

Stop for dinner at Uzonj, where you can grab a table in the open-air dining room and sample favorite local dishes like robalo grelhado (grilled sea bass). The signature dish, the mildly spicy chicken piri-piri, is always cooked perfectly.

If you’re up for a night out on the town, head to Rua da Oura—also known as the Strip—a street where the bars and clubs are open until the wee hours. Try Legends Bar (look for the neon sign and the party that’s spilling into the street), 33 Sports Bar (where there’s a pub-like atmosphere and the game is always on TV), or Chicago’s Lounge Bar (where the walls are as brightly colored as the cocktails). Party-loving Tripadvisor readers give a thumbs-up to all three.

You had a taste of the beach on Day One, but the real gems are a bit further along the coast. One of my favorites is Praia de São Rafael, where the crystal-clear water and cream-colored sand are backed by rugged cliffs. Depending on where you’re staying, you may be able to walk to this beach just west of the city center. Most likely, you’ll have to get a ride. Bus 8 drops you off along the cliff. From there, it’s about a 15-minute walk down to the sand. It’s a great beach for sunbathing, but if you get restless you can always rent a kayak or a stand-up paddleboard to explore the nearby caves.

There is a single restaurant on the road above Praia de São Rafael, but it can be hard to get a table there. Instead, head a few minutes north to Estrada das Sesmarias, where you’ll find an array of lunch options. There are fine-dining spots like Sal Maris, a seafood restaurant where each dish looks like a work of art, and more traditional venues like Margem Sul, where the fish comes in ample portions. I especially like the polvo à lagareiro (octopus drizzled with a generous amount of olive oil). The dining room is decorated with antique farm tools, giving it a homey feel.

You’ll need to fuel up for a hike along the Reserva Natural Caminho da Baleeira, just west of Albufeira. This nature preserve takes you through the region’s wild side, with many paths leading to secret coves like Praia do Arrifão. Starting at Praia de São Rafael, you can walk east along the cliffs, enjoying the ocean views all the way to Ponta da Baleeira. Be sure to wear proper walking shoes if you’re planning to walk down to the beaches below. Once you’ve reached Ponta da Baleeira (it takes about 30 minutes), take a look back at Albufeira’s whitewashed houses.

From Ponta da Baleeira, it’s a 20-minute walk north to the Marina de Albufeira. (If you’re wiped out, you can always get a taxi.) Many boat parties depart from the marina in the summer, but even in the off season you can enjoy a pleasant walk along the promenade, spotting a mix of yachts and fishing boats docked by the port.

For dinner, head to the nearby Windmill. Housed in an old stone building, this 12-seat restaurant is one of the most romantic destinations on this part of the coast. Start with the goat cheese crème brûlée with honey caviar, then move on to the risotto with clams, white wine, and coriander — a contemporary take on a traditional clam dish called amêijoas à bulhão pato. Be sure to book well ahead and ask for a window seat looking out toward the bay.

Take a short break from the beach and drive 30 minutes inland (or hop on Bus 10) to the town of Loulé. Arrive early if you want to catch the Mercado de Loulé, the town's bustling market, in action. (It’s closed on Sunday.) The building itself is worth admiring with its striking architecture, featuring Moorish-style windows and red onion domes.

Take a stroll around the town’s medieval-era Castelo de Loulé (it’s worth it for the views from the ramparts), then grab lunch at Bocage, a local favorite. The exposed wooden beams and brick walls give it a traditional feel, as do the meals served on terracotta plates made especially for the restaurant. The fish comes straight from the local market, but the grilled black pork is among my favorite dishes here.

You’ve seen the beaches to the west of Albufeira, now it’s time to explore the east side. If you’re driving, it’s only a slight detour from Loulé to Praia da Falésia. Otherwise, it’s less of a hassle to head back to Albufeira and get a taxi from there. There are several entry points to this stunning beach, which stretches for nearly four miles. Backed by towering orange cliffs, it’s among the most picturesque beaches in the world. That’s not just my own opinion—it’s on list after list of beautiful beaches. Tripadvisor readers also rank it as one of the “best of the best.”

Take the steps down to the water, or stay at the top and enjoy a hike along the cliffs. If you decide to do the hike, it’s best to start near Praia dos Tomates further west and then finish at Praia do Barranco das Belharucas just in time for sunset.

Once the sun goes down, you can stick around Praia do Barranco das Belharucas for dinner at O Golfinho, a family-run restaurant overlooking the beach. It’s hard to beat the location of this place on the edge of a cliff. I like coming here for the views, but also for the delicious seafood. I’ll usually start with the garlic prawns, then choose between the octopus or one of the grilled fish dishes.

If you’re ready to splurge, head to Al Quimia inside the Epic Sana Hotel. Run by acclaimed Chef Luís Mourão, the restaurant offers three different tasting menus (including a vegetarian option) that bring the produce of the Algarve front and center. Although the dishes change with the seasons, I recommend the large deep-sea shrimp if they’re on the menu. On a warm day, cool off on the terrace facing the gardens.