4 amazing, self-guided walks in Munich
See the city one step at a time.
I am firmly of the opinion that the best way to explore a city is on foot, and Munich is no exception. I have spent well over a decade living here, and while I love to head to the mountains for a proper hike, the city is ideal for those wanting to stretch their legs. It’s a small city—locals call it a “large village”—and it’s full of parks and pedestrian-only areas that make strolling a joy. Even better, there are beer gardens, beer halls, and cafes aplenty to break up a long wander, giving you the chance to recharge the batteries and soak up Bavarian life.
And if the weather’s poor, Munich’s public transport network is very good—trams, buses, the metro, and suburban trains all run very regularly until the early hours of the morning. You know, just in case that beer hall break turns into something more.
The historic tour: Munich's Old Town
Home to impressive old architecture, huge beer halls, lederhosen, and dirndls, Munich is famous for its traditions and customs. Marienplatz, the main square, is the perfect starting point to delve into Munich’s complex history.
Your stops
Total walking time: three hours, slow pace
- Marienplatz has been the city's center since Munich was founded in 1158. The Gothic-Revival New Town Hall has a quaint glockenspiel with life-sized figures, which reenacts scenes from Munich’s history at 11 a.m., 12 p.m., and, in the summer months, at 5 p.m.
- From Marienplatz, head east for a couple of minutes until you reach the Frauenkirche with its two green, onion-shaped domes. Keep an eye out for the dent at the church’s entrance, known as the Devil’s Footprint. Legend has it that the devil himself once walked around the church, gleeful at the apparent lack of windows (at a certain angle, the church’s columns shield the windows). When he realized he was wrong, he stomped in fury. There are plenty of traditional Bavarian restaurants around the church, should bellies be rumbling. I love the Augustiner Klosterwirt for their pfannkuchensuppe, pancake strips served in a hearty beef broth.
- It’s a 10-minute walk from Frauenkirche to the Residenz Palace, the former royal palace of Bavaria’s monarchy. It’s a labyrinth of rooms, with an opulent Hall of Antiquities, a theater, 10 courtyards, and a breathtaking treasury. You can rent out audio guides to help make sense of the web of rooms and you should set aside at least an hour or two to explore properly.
- From there, it’s just a couple of minutes to Odeonsplatz, home to the marigold-hued Theatine Church, which is open to the public. The imposing Feldherrnhalle loggia (fenced off from the public) is also nearby, which is where Hitler’s unsuccessful Beer Hall Putsch took place in 1923.
- Head south for 10 minutes to the Hofbräuhaus, and round the walk off with a cool beer and traditional Bavarian fare. Despite its touristy reputation, it’s a brilliant place to make friends with locals—sit at one of the long tables for a lively evening.
Hotel pick: Conveniently located a stone’s throw away from the Hofbräuhaus, the comfortable four-star Platzl Hotel is one of the most traditional Bavarian hotels in the city—the staff wears lederhosen and dirndls and weisswurst (Bavarian veal sausage) is on offer at breakfast.
The art tour: The museum quarter
Munich’s Kunstareal, or museum quarter, is in the Maxvorstadt neighborhood of the city, just north of the city center. Here, you can find something for everyone: culture, history, geology, and art. This tour, in particular, takes you to Munich’s main art galleries. Try to visit on Sundays, when many galleries charge just 1 euro in entrance fees.
Your stops
Total walking time: three hours, slow pace
- Start at Lenbachhaus, famed for its collection of Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) artworks. The museum used to be the residence of artist Franz von Lenbach—over the years, the mustard villa has been renovated and adapted to hold an extensive contemporary art collection, including paintings by Wassily Kandinsky, Paul Klee, and Olafur Eliasson. Make time after exploring the galleries to visit the garden, which offers peace and tranquility in the middle of the city.
- The Alte Pinakothek is around a 10-minute walk away. It’s one of the oldest galleries in the world, founded in 1836, and houses a vast collection of Old Master paintings. The building was damaged in World War II but has been restored with visible “wounds” that remind of Germany’s past. With around 700 artworks from the likes of Leonardo da Vinci, Velázquez, and Raphael, it’s a feast for the eyes. Minna Thiel, just across the street, is a laid-back, outdoor cafe/bar that serves good coffee and snacks.
- The airy Pinakothek der Moderne is just across the road, and there are plenty of parks by both museums should you need a short break. It’s a contemporary art museum home to a great deal of art by Pablo Picasso and Max Beckmann, among others. Check out the Futuro flying saucer in the park outside, a fun installation designed by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen in the 1960s.
- Your next stop, Haus der Kunst, is a 15-minute walk away but be sure to stop by the modern art–filled Museum Brandhorst on your way for a photo op. It’s hard to miss—36,000 colorful ceramic rods adorn the exterior. Meanwhile, the design of the imposing Haus der Kunst, located at the southern tip of the English Garden, is decidedly different and an example of Nazi architecture. Today, the museum is dedicated to showing diverse contemporary art from around the world. The Goldene Bar, on the ground floor, is a great place to stop for a snack and a drink before heading out to the standing wave next door to watch the surfers show off their skills.
Hotel pick: Ruby Lilly has a fantastic bar (try the whiskey sour), but don’t skip the small rooftop terrace in the summer to watch the sunset. Rooms are modern and minimalist and the staff are very welcoming.
The nature tour: Munich’s west side
From the world’s biggest beer garden to a Baroque palace and beautiful botanical gardens, this nature trail is best saved for spring or summer days with balmy weather. Start at lunchtime, so you can feast in the beer garden.
Your stops
Total walking time: three hours, slow pace
- Hirschgarten is the world’s biggest beer garden, with 8,000 seats. Grab a plate of sausages, a maß (liter) of beer, and sit and watch the deer roam in the park next door. I love their obatzda—Bavarian cream cheese—eaten with a giant pretzel.
- From here, head east out of the park—you’ll pass a boules court and playground on the way—via Winfriendstraße to a side entrance to the Nymphenburg Palace park. It’s a gorgeous, green stroll up to the palace itself (in total, it’ll take around 30 minutes from Hirschgarten, and there are plenty of benches in the park for breaks). The Baroque palace was built in the 17th century as the summer residence for the Bavarian monarchy and today houses a museum with well-preserved interiors. (You can snag tickets online before you walk over or buy them at the cash desk.)
- From the palace, it’s another 15 minutes to the botanical gardens. For a small entrance fee, you can stroll around the greenhouses (my favorite is the one filled with dozens—if not hundreds—of cacti) and the expansive gardens. In winter, the butterfly exhibition is well worth a visit—hundreds of exotic butterflies can be seen in a heated greenhouse.
Hotel pick: Set between the Nymphenburg Palace and Hirschgarten, the Hotel Kreimhild is an unassuming gem. It’s family-run, rooms are spacious, and, although it’s a way out of the city center, the hotel is well connected—it’s a five-minute walk to a tram stop.
The foodie tour: City center and Glockenbach district
When you think of Bavarian cuisine, what do you think of? Sausage, sauerkraut, and pretzels served alongside a stein of beer? While Munich is proud of its culinary traditions, the city has so much more to offer. There’s an impressive third-wave coffee scene, lots of great craft beers, and chefs who are reinventing Bavarian fare. On this afternoon walk, snack your way through it all in the city center.
Your stops
Total walking time: two hours, slow pace
- Start your culinary tour paying your respects at the city’s beer and Oktoberfest museum, which offers guided tours in both German and English. It’s located in one of Munich’s oldest buildings, dating back to the 14th century, meaning that lots of ducking is in order if you’re tall.
- Next, head to Viktualienmarkt, Munich’s oldest outdoor marketplace. There are a host of stalls here, from traditional butchers selling weißwurst (Bavaria’s traditional veal sausages, eaten with sweet mustard and pretzels alongside a wheat beer for breakfast), to fruit and veg stalls, cheesemongers, and florists. Caspar Plautz is one of the more recent additions, selling a range of potatoes and some exquisite lunches. I also love to grab a coffee from tiny third-wave coffee shop SWEET SPOT after lunch.
- From the market, head south past the Schrannenhalle—a huge indoor marketplace that houses Eataly, the Italian gourmet store with a lovely bar inside. Carry on down Blumenstraße and take a left—you’ll arrive at one of the best specialty coffee roasters in the city, Man versus Machine.
- Gärtnerplatz, the center of the Glockenbach district, is a seven-minute walk away. The grassy roundabout is always decorated with beautiful flowers and it’s a popular spot for locals to meet and drink a beer on a summer’s evening. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants in this area—the Deutsche Eiche has consistently good food, including a spectacular schnitzel.
Hotel pick: A stylish boutique hotel in the uber-cool Glockenbach district, The Flushing Meadows’ rooms are all very different, designed by artists from around the world. It has a lovely rooftop bar (I love their vermouth and tonic) and top-tier ambiance.