Weekend guide to adventure-packed Stowe

There’s no arguing that Jake Burton Carpenter, the godfather of the modern snowboard, put the sport on the map. And he had just as much of an impact on Stowe, the Vermont mountain town where he lived for almost three decades before he passed away in 2019. On Stowe Mountain, one trail — Jake’s Ride — was named after him last year, though he didn’t like to admit how much he liked the easy green run. “It’s not the most challenging trail, but it’s a beautiful cruiser with the most beautiful views,” says Donna Carpenter, Jake’s wife and chair of the Burton board of directors, who we spoke to this month. “Twice he said to me, ‘Donna, when I go, this is the one I want my named after me.’”

Meanwhile, at the Matterhorn — Jake’s go-to après ski spot — the staff wears shirts with one of his favorite sayings: “Have as much fun as possible.” That sentiment defines what it’s like in Stowe, whether you live here or are just passing through for a long weekend escape. “When you’re on the chairlift, you forget about your problems, you forget about what needs to be done, you’re just in the moment,” says Donna, who shares Jake’s passion for Stowe, thanks in large part to Mount Mansfield, the highest peak in Vermont. “This is a mountain that you could explore forever.”

Another thing going for it: “Stowe is a real town. It was a farming community long before it was a skiing community and it still has these roots.” FYI, that quote is from another passionate local who just happens to be a von Trapp. Yep, like that family. After escaping from Nazi Europe, Sam von Trapp’s Sound of Music grandparents bought land on a hilltop in Stowe, then set up the Trapp Family Lodge, a hotel that looks like it’s straight out of the Alps. “This place resonated with them — from the hardworking, self-reliant, outdoorsy people to the mountains,” says Sam. “It reminded them of Austria.”

In past WeekEnder editions, we’ve taken you skiing in the Catskills and explored the Adirondacks. Now we’re heading to Stowe to embrace nature with late winter skiing and early spring adventures — and to stay safe. Unless you’re thoroughly vaccinated, the state has strict rules about quarantining and testing before you come here on a vacation. When you’re in Vermont, there are rules about masks, social distancing, and more — and people respect the rules. “Everyone wears masks and it’s about protecting your neighbors, your community,” says Donna. “I’ve appreciated this state the past year more than ever.” And we guarantee that with this guide to Stowe in hand, you’re going to appreciate it, too.

-Laura Begley Bloom, New York's Senior WeekEnder Writer

With 120 wooded acres, Topnotch offers endless ways to enjoy the great outdoors. Think: hiking trails that wind through the surrounding countryside, endless biking paths, an equestrian center with everything from horseback lessons to pony rides, and one of the top tennis centers in the U.S. No getting bored here. There are also heated pools and hot tubs inside and out, farm-to-table cuisine at Roost restaurant, craft cocktails, and an outdoor firepit (be sure to order a s’mores kit). Besides the main hotel, where you can chill out in a comfortable loft-like room, Topnotch has two- and three-bedroom Resort Homes that are ideal for people who want to spread out and get away from it all.

Insider Tip: Topnotch is home to a sprawling spa where treatments include house-made aromatherapy oils and even a CBD massage for your dog. Pro-tip: Show up early and make a day of it. Spa guests get free use of the facilities, which includes an impressive gym, hot tubs, relaxation room, and more.

Honorable mentions:

Mountaintop hotel from the legendary Sound of Music family that is the next best thing to being in Austria. While there aren’t sing-alongs right now, you can meet some actual von Trapps (hint: Sam spends a lot of time at the on-site Nordic Center) and taste authentic European-style bites.

Stowe’s only ski-in ski-out luxury resort isn’t just for skiers: The property also features a Bob Cupp-designed golf course, a performing arts center, countless hiking and biking trails, and a village with shops and restaurants.

This old-school Vermont inn was given an overhaul by a California-based hotel group, transforming the property into a sleek (and affordable) basecamp for everything Stowe has to offer.

There’s something for everyone at this charming resort, but we’re partial to the new Sleds & Beds package, with a dogsled ride under starlit skies that ends around a bonfire.

Stowe is all about the outdoors — and then some. “It’s a place where you can push yourself physically, then also have a high-quality meal or attend a high-level concert,” says Sam von Trapp. Here’s a small sampling of the culinary highlights. But some advice: Be sure you book tables before you go. Due to COVID, the state currently requires reservations at sit-down restaurants and there’s reduced capacity, too.

Dedalus - On first glance, it might look like a wine bar, but hidden away at the back of this gourmet store is a prepared foods counter with the best breakfast sandwiches in town.

Matterhorn Restaurant - Fireplaces. Fresh sushi. Killer wings. What seems like a million beers on tap. It all adds up to the quintessential spot to put up your boots after you roll off the slopes.

von Trapp Bierhall - After a day of skiing, there’s nothing like a plate of wienerschnitzel and spätzle, accompanied by a frosty lager brewed onsite at this von Trapp-owned beer hall.

Doc Ponds - All-around crowd pleaser named after a persuasive doctor who testified at a court hearing in 1876 that lager was nutritious and non-intoxicating (cheers to that).

Piecasso Pizzeria & Lounge - New York-style pizza at a local favorite that has been named one of America’s top slices by Travel + Leisure.

The Cliff House - It doesn’t get much more dramatic than this panoramic restaurant atop Mount Mansfield that’s only accessible by the bright red Stowe gondolas.

Solstice - At this rustic-chic ski village restaurant, the dishes (with produce from the chef’s herb and vegetable garden) are as dreamy as the views overlooking Spruce Peak.

The Dining Room at Edson Hill - Set in a country inn, this farm-to-table restaurant is one of finest dining experiences in town.

Crafts and Vermont seem to go hand in hand — so it’s no wonder this is a hot spot for craft beer, too. “Craft in general in Vermont is highly valued and craftspeople are drawn here — whether it's to make beer or cheese or a piece of handmade furniture,” says Jen Kimmich, cofounder of The Alchemist, a local cult brewery that’s currently only doing curbside orders for now. But get in line — people come here from miles away to stock up their Heady Topper IPA. Want to sit down and have a Vermont brew? Check out these Stowe spots.

Idletyme Brewing Company – With its massive fireplace and cowhide-covered banquettes, this brewpub is as stylish as it gets. Have a flight of beers, brewed right onsite.

Stowe Public House - This pub specializes in Vermont brews and is set on Main Street right next to Stowe’s often-photographed steepled church. The next-door bottle shop sells beer to go.

Rock Art Brewery in Morrisville - Want to explore beyond Stowe? It’s worth the 20-minute drive to check out this nearby craft brewery, one of the first in the area.

The topline: There’s a reason why Stowe gets so much attention. Not only is the main ski area located on Mount Mansfield — the tallest peak in Vermont — Stowe was the birthplace of East Coast skiing, with the first-ever chairlift in the Northeast. And the snow is epic: an average of 314 inches of natural powder each year.

Best runs: In total, Stowe has 116 trails served by a dozen lifts, plus more mile-long lifts than anywhere else on the East Coast. The most advanced trails are on Mount Mansfield, a.k.a. Stowe Mountain (that’s where you’ll find Jake’s Ride). Across the road is the beginner-friendly Spruce Peak, also home to the ski village. Stowe’s signature red gondolas connect the two areas. Want to find the best back-country run? Donna Carpenter recommends Bruce Trail. “It’s as good as anything out west,” she says.

Lift tickets: Due to COVID, the mountain has new rules about social distancing and limited capacity in order to keep its guests safe, which means that tickets can sell out fast — especially on weekends. Owned by Vail Resorts, Stowe is part of the Epic Pass group and passholders get special privileges. For more information, see Stowe’s ticketing options page.

Gear: Equipment is available for rent on the mountain, but these days, we recommend bringing your own gear or renting from an outfitter in town like MountainOps.

Dining and drinking: Stowe wants to make sure you’re happy and well-fed. Besides a duo of high-end restaurants — The Cliff House and Solstice (see above) — a great spot for lunch is WhistlePig Pavilion, from the Vermont rye whiskey maker. (Don’t miss the raclette cooked over the open fire.) Then there’s the Skinny Pancake (a crêperie), the Waffle House, plus outside igloos and pergolas and more. Want to have a drink? Check out the Line House (which used to be an invite-only speakeasy) or the Hourglass Bar & Lounge at Spruce Peak Lodge.

That’s not all: There’s so much to do in the ski village, from a skating rink in winter to hiking once spring arrives, plus a performing arts center that is known for serious cultural events and shopping, too. (We love the Pantry, a general store selling Vermont products and light bites.)

You name it — you can probably do it in Stowe, which is known for its skiing but truly a year-round adventure destination. Here’s the lowdown on some of the top things to do this winter into spring, along with some tips from the locals.

Cross-country skiing - It’s no surprise that Sam von Trapp is partial to the Trapp Family Lodge’s on-site Nordic center, with 37 miles of groomed trails. “My father started it in 1968, and it was the first full-service cross-country ski center in the United States,” says Sam. “It’s a point of pride for us.” Sam’s tip? Don’t miss the Slayton Pasture Cabin, a rustic waystation where skiers can take a break and warm up by the fire.

Snowmobiling - Got a need for speed? Explore the area with Snowmobile Vermont, which runs a 25-mile journey through the Mount Mansfield State Forest that is suitable for both beginners and advanced snowmobilers.

Winter hiking - Stowe proves that hiking isn’t just a warm-weather sport. In winter, you can hike to dramatic frozen-over waterfalls. One of the most beautiful: Moss Glen Falls, a series of cascading waterfalls.

Mountain biking - RJ Thompson is the cofounder and executive director of the Stowe-based Vermont Huts Association, a company that is building a network of rentable back-country huts throughout the state. He admits that he was attracted to Stowe, in large part, because of its biking. “Stowe has an incredible single track mountain bike trail network that leads right into town,” he says.

The Gravel Grinder - For early spring biking, there’s nothing like taking one of the local Gravel Grinder routes, says Jen Kimmich of The Alchemist. “It’s not competitive and it’s on roads they call the Gravel Grinder because the trails aren’t ready yet,” she says.

Running - RJ Thompson is also a trail runner. His location of choice: “What I like to do is wake up early and get a run in at Cotton Brook, which is a nice little spot.”

Hiking - The Long Trail runs up and down Vermont, but one of the most stunning sections crosses right over the top of Mount Mansfield. And guess what? It’s a shockingly easy climb, and the rewards are great: 360-degree views of the area.

Horse-drawn carriage and sleigh rides - Another favorite adventure for Sam von Trapp? The horse-drawn carriage and sleigh rides from Gentle Giants, which has two locations in town (including one at the Trapp Family Lodge). “It’s as good as it gets,” says Sam.

Dogsledding - Or maybe you prefer getting pulled around by Siberian huskies? Umiak Outdoor Outfitters offers dogsledding rides led by experienced mushers.

Bowling - According to Adam White, the director of communications at Ski Vermont, it is also worth heading inside to check out Stowe Bowl. “It’s a European-style bowling alley that’s very modern with bowling pins on strings,” he says. “It’s quite the scene.”

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