10 must-try dishes in Key West

One of the biggest misconceptions about Key West is that Jimmy Buffett, the late, great, salty Shakespeare of pop music and the unofficial mayor of this island city, wrote “Cheeseburgers in Paradise,” about the place. Not so (it was written about his boat, The Euphoria). But the Conch Republic, as Key West is known, didn’t care and pretty much adopted the song as its own.

When I did indeed eat my first cheeseburger in the early 90s in Key West, it was at Buffett’s Margaritaville restaurant, a tacky, sticky, sudsy tourist trap that’s still there. Over the years through my many visits, I’ve noted some changes in the restaurant scene, but not many. Key West likes to keep it old school. But don’t let that fool you.

While there are no Michelin-starred restaurants on the island—yet—the food here is stamped with a fabulous fusion of Floridian and Caribbean flavors (some used to call it “Floribbean” back in the day) with a tasty twist that makes it uniquely Key West.

The scene may be pretty casual—flip flops and Crocs are as fancy as the footwear gets—but there’s nothing casual about experiencing some of the best dishes you’ll ever have, right there in, yep, paradise.

But, like Buffett, save the cheeseburger for the boat. The following are some of my favorite Key West eats.

What to Know: Cuba’s close–a mere 90ish miles from the Southernmost Point, but why bother, when you can shimmy up to this adorably kitschy food truck restaurant that that just so happens to serve the island’s best Cuban sandwich Located in a lush, tropical setting near a pool and under a chickee hut, this casual Cuban spot is padrisimo (Cuban slang for great)!

My rec: Go for the Cuban Mix, voted number one by locals. It will put your hunger to rest with a magnificent mix of roasted mojo pork, serrano ham, Swiss cheese slathered with mustard aioli on a perfectly pressed piece of Cuban toast.

What to know: So back to that cheeseburger in paradise. Long story short, a frita is a street food throwback to 1930s Cuba, a beef and pork patty seasoned with Spanish spices, topped with a zesty sauce and crispy, fried julienne potatoes, all under a Cuban bun.

My rec: At the old school walkup window, you can either stick with the traditional—yes, you can add American cheese but try the Manchego instead—or even a vegetarian version with a Portobello mushroom standing in for the meat. Or go nuts and order the Confused Frita featuring the traditional Frita burger decked out in onion, Frita sauce, mojo pork, Caribbean slaw and magical fried potatoes. There’s nothing confusing about this dish other than whether or not to order another one.

What to know: This no-frills, off-the-beaten-path Key West mainstay named after a Cuban town named after the island’s indigenous Siboney peoples, has been serving some of the best home-cooked Cuban fare to locals since 1984.

My rec: If you must do one big, hearty meal while in Key West, let it be El Siboney’s roast pork dish, a heap of tender shredded roast pork, slow cooked and bathed in mojo (a marinade of citrus, garlic, cilantro and spices). You can choose from about 900 base varieties—white rice and black beans, yellow rice and black beans, yucca, plantains, mashed potatoes, salad, and more.

What to know: For those who will travel anywhere for good food, brace yourself for the extremely rustic, waterfront Hogfish Bar & Grill on Stock Island (“A Great Place If You Can Find It,” they say—take an Uber). It’s not the prettiest drive you’ll ever take near Key West and the spot wins no awards for service, but it’s a path worthy of your time.

My rec: You haven’t had a fish taco until you’ve had a fried hogfish one. A mild-flavored white fish with a scallop-like-consistency, the hogfish is caught nearby with a spear. (A warning: the restaurant sometimes runs out, so call ahead to make sure they’re stocked up for the day). Wash it down with some Florida Keys Brewing Co. Red Ale and maybe throw in a side of beer-battered onion rings. While there is plenty of seating under a huge chickee hut, it tends to get very loud, crowded and claustrophobic, so I recommend waiting for a table outside along the water.

What to know: Sure, seafood spots on Key West are almost as ubiquitous as those tacky t-shirt shops, but this one is the real deal, with some of the freshest dishes around. A market and café reminiscent of an old fashioned gas station, Eaton Street has just a few seats under an overhang outside. A tip: its online biz is booming for those who aren’t lucky enough to go in person.

My rec: While the lobster roll is remarkable I’d say skip that and go straight for the grilled lobster tail, something you’d find in fancier spots around town for a lot more. For $25, you’ll get a huge tail, simply served with butter, crunchy coleslaw and salty plantain chips.

What to know: Ahhh, resplendent Louie’s Backyard, a favorite spot for so many, even the Key West legend Jimmy Buffett. Tucked away on the ocean in a residential neighborhood, Louie’s is a hot spot for fine dining. The dining room feels a bit more buttoned up than the outdoor bar, but my favorite spot is upstairs at T. Unlike the main floor, this area doesn’t take reservations and offers the same spectacular water views as downstairs—some would say even better views if you’re lucky enough to snag one of the tiny tables on the deck.

My rec: As much as I love the gourmet popcorn and the truffle fries, don’t miss the conch fritters with hot pepper jelly. A Key West staple, conch fritters are elevated here from average bar food to conch-filled fluff balls of lightly fried batter with an explosion of flavor and spice.

What to know: On a quiet street near the Bahama Village, Blue Heaven was once host to cock fighting, gambling, and Friday night boxing matches refereed by none other than Ernest Hemingway. Today it’s one of Key West’s most popular spots for Bloody Mary’s, mimosas and breakfast. The inside is very cool—a former dance hall and bordello upstairs—but outside dining in the backyard is a huge draw here. Just be prepared to wait for a table.

My rec: It’s all about the Blue Heaven Benedicts—choose from veggie, ham, bacon, sausage, beef tenderloin (!), Key West shrimp, or the most popular—lobster, where chunky hunks of crustacean top perfectly poached eggs. But wait, don’t finish yet, because a side of pillowy banana pancakes, even if you share with the table, are also a must.

What to know: A modern local—and locals’—bistro, Seven Fish proved its staying power over two decades ago when it opened with the mantra, “Simple. Good. Food.” And while the fresh ingredients and seafood may seem simple, there’s nothing simple about the food here.

My rec: Go for the Thai curry snapper—a piece of sauteed yellowtail served with sushi rice. If you’re not in the mood for fish, I recommend the meatloaf with mashed potatoes and gravy—not exactly the quintessential Key West dish, but worth it anyway. Save room for the Key Lime pie—locals insist it’s the best in town.

What to know: Café Marquesa is Key West fine dining and its best. A white-tablecloth, romantic, special occasion kind of restaurant, the 50-seat bistro isn’t stuffy, but you will be stuffed after a memorable meal here. Inside tip: If you give them 48 hours’ notice, they’ll hook you up with the Golden Hour menu. You can choose three selections—smoked salmon, finger sandwiches, baked brie, deviled eggs, and more, with an option to add on stone crab or caviar—and receive two cocktails each— like sake lychee spritzer and strawberry lemongrass spritzer.

My rec: The pork Osso-Bucco…just you wait. The kitchen has turned out a few iterations, but the best I’ve tried is the crispy version over mushroom risotto.

What to know: If you’ve had enough seafood (and booze) to swim back home, and you’re craving some good vegetarian food, hit up Garbo’s Grill. It’s a hidden, husband-and-wife-run food truck located at Hank’s Hair of the Dog Saloon, one of Key West’s coolest watering holes. And while some food trucks are just filler for your next shot, Garbo’s takes its food seriously.

My rec: The veggie Cayo Bowl is unforgettable. It’s a colorful, crunchy mix of cabbage, carrots, cilantro, jalapenos, mango, grilled mushrooms and onions, topped with house Caribbean dressing or a citrus soy dressing (for the vegans). Meat eaters can add beef to it, but I say go with the pure veggie version.