The solo traveler's guide to Taos

In 2015, I spent a month driving from Virginia to Phoenix while moving across the country. I fell in love with New Mexico and spent about a week exploring it, swinging through Albuquerque and other spots. I only spent one night in Taos at that point, but I loved the city’s hip vibe. On this return trip, I flew to Albuquerque then drove straight to Taos so I could maximize my time there. Another selling point? Taos is the closest major city to Ojo Caliente, a remote outdoor hot spring that’s been in use for more than 100 years.

I only planned three things about a month out: reservations for dinner at ACEQ Restaurant, hot air ballooning, and a visit to Ojo Caliente. Unfortunately the hot-air ballooning was canceled because of the wind, but I did get to enjoy a stunning sunrise over the Rio Grande.

I’ve been traveling solo for a long time, and the easiest way for me to plan is by looking at geography. I picked museums that were close to each other, then ranked them by my level of interest. I visited the Millicent Rogers Museum first since I love jewelry, and then headed to downtown Taos to see some others.

Like most solo travelers, I spent quite a bit of time chatting with servers, baristas, and museum staff. The most interesting person I met? Sol Lothe, the owner of Rio Grande Balloons and former solo skydiver. He dished (to this committed celebrity real estate fan) about all the celebrities who have called Taos home, including Julia Roberts and Donald Rumsfeld.

When I’m traveling by myself, I like to save on hotels; I don’t tend to spend a ton of time in the hotel, and I’m typically only there at night. On this trip, I spent about $100 a night on a cabin at the Taos Goji Eco-Lodge & Farm Retreat. Direct flights from Phoenix to Albuquerque are also cheap and plentiful.

Conversely, I love to splurge on food and experiences. At Ojo Caliente, I indulged in decadent truffle fries and fish tacos at Artesian, the on-site restaurant. And though it can be costly, hot air ballooning is such an incredible experience—when it doesn’t get canceled.

I wouldn’t necessarily say that I felt unsafe, but I did feel out of my element. Taos is somewhat rural, with lots of two-lane roads with limited Wi-Fi and cell service. As someone who lives in a city, it can be unsettling to not be around other people for long periods of time, especially when I’m on my own. When I drove to Ojo Caliente, I worried that my cell service would disconnect, and I’d be lost without anyone to ask for directions. Just in case the GPS went out, I saved screenshots of the directions to my phone.

I’m someone who doesn’t love returning to destinations, but sometimes returning to a place is just what I need. The last time I was in New Mexico, my beloved Chihuahua, Autumn, was traveling with me. I was at a crossroads back then. I decided to move to Arizona to try to become a full-time writer, and I was scared about the future. Autumn’s endless love helped me survive some hard times, launch my career, and move to a state where I knew no one.

She passed away this April, and I was nervous about what kind of emotions this trip would stir up. I was at yet another crossroads, living without her after more than 12 years of companionship. But I felt her presence not long after I got off the plane. In the airport I spotted a long-haired Chihuahua puppy that looked just like her, right down to the small patch of white fur under the dog’s chin. It was such an unbelievable coincidence. I cried in the rental car at her memory, but I also felt comforted by seeing that puppy. I felt like I was on the right path.