A weekend in Idyllwild, California: Nature hikes, wine flights, and artsy shops





Take Idyllwild’s name as a hint. This mile-high Riverside County spot is equal parts chill hideout and nature refuge. Perched high in the San Jacinto Mountains that split the Inland Empire from Coachella Valley, Idyllwild is surrounded by 360-degrees of pure alpine wilderness.
Steve Perez, park ranger and site manager for the Idyllwild Nature Center, knows just how special Idyllwild is. Before becoming a park ranger, he had a desk job in a District Attorneys’ office. While the work was interesting, Perez says cubicle life was “extremely stifling and detrimental to my mental health.” After taking a shot and applying for a seasonal park ranger position, he left his 9-to-5 behind, eventually becoming a permanent ranger at the center. Now, he says, every day is a chance to “provide environmental literacy through exhibits, programming, and more.” Perez’s favorite part of the gig? Bringing out a love of nature in visitors from every kind of background, and part of that means leading through representation. “I feel really fortunate to lead a museum and trail system and be able to represent my agency, generation (millennial), cultural heritage (Mexican-American), and queerness.”
Though it’s just over two hours from LA, Idyllwild holds onto its off-the-beaten path vibe. Perez proudly calls it “the epitome of the quirky southern California mountain town.” And thanks to its modest snow, it never draws big skiing crowds. Instead, you’ll get rock outcroppings carved by the sea; ravens surfing wind bluffs; and wildlife like bobcats, coyotes, and deer wandering by.

Where to start? Perez is a pro at matching trails with people. Nature newbies and people who need accessible paths, he says, will do well on the trail network at the Idyllwild Nature Center. “We have trails and viewpoints that range from easy, stroller-capable to moderately strenuous.” Want something a little longer? The Summit Trail, which takes off from the Nature Center, “is a gorgeous two-hour or so hike that takes you from Yellow Pine Forest to Chaparral and offers a decent but not overly exhausting workout.” It’s also dog friendly. And for the challenge-seekers? “The South Ridge Trail that leads to Tahquitz peak is my go-to for a great workout….Over three miles and climbing 2,300 feet plus in elevation, it is not for the faint of heart.” But even if you stay in your car, you’ll be treated to jaw-dropping nature. Perez says the Palms to Pines Highway that comes in from the east is “second-to-none in terms of views and stunning changes of biomes and scenery.”
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Whatever your route, turn off the phone and tune in. “Being immersed in nature offers people a quiet space where they get a chance to examine the things they are carrying with them,” notes Perez. “Huge trees, stunning views and singing birds have a way of putting things in perspective. I tell people to take this opportunity to put their cells on silent and disconnect while they are in the park. Nature does the rest.”
Ready to power off your phone and power up your senses? Here’s our game plan for a nature-inspired Idyllwild weekend.
—Christine Sarkis, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide
Editor’s Note: For the latest on Covid, visit the official California COVID-19 Information Page.
Things to do
Nature rules in Idyllwild. Here’s where to celebrate the outdoors.

Set off on an adventure in Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness
Talk about a five-star review: Famous naturalist John Muir once called the view from Mount San Jacinto “the most sublime spectacle to be found anywhere on this earth.” High praise! But wander the conifer forests, stroll the brimming meadows, and scale rocky outcroppings, and you may find yourself agreeing with the guy. The park, headquartered in Idyllwild, is also known as the wonderland waiting at the top of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway.
Have a mindful moment at Lake Fulmor
Pack a picnic and head to Lake Fulmor for the type of reset that only a mountain oasis can give. Stroll the trail that winds around this jewel of a lake, taking in its dense forest and sparkling water. On still days, the water does a mirror trick, doubling the trees, rocks, and nearby hills and mountains. Picnic tables provide the perfect lunch setup, and a little pier gives you the chance to walk out onto the lake. Looking for an excuse to linger? Bring along a fishing pole (and your fishing license), and plop yourself down on a shore for a screen-free afternoon.

Brush up on local wildlife at Idyllwild Nature Center
Consider this your master class on Idyllwild’s land. A mix of rangers (including Perez) and volunteers maintain exhibits and answer questions about the area’s original inhabitants, the Cahuilla people; the European settlers; and plants, animals, and minerals of the San Jacintos. On Memorial Day weekend, you can hit up the annual Wildflower Show to see and smell over 100 species of native wildflowers. Other fun stops: the native-plant gardens and a birding deck outfitted with automated feeders—plus all of the nature trails that take off from the Center.
Sip award-winning wine at Middle Ridge Winery
California grapes meet French oak barrels at Middle Ridge Winery. Winemaker Chris Johnston has a passion for fruit-forward wines that has earned him awards and a devoted following. Even better, the downtown Idyllwild tasting room feels like a big welcoming barn, loaded with art and music, making it the perfect spot to pull up a seat, dive into a local scene, and chat with fellow wine-lovers.
Greet the sunset at Indian Vista Scenic Overlook
Bring on all the oohs and ahhs by ending the day with a spectacular sunset. Where exactly? Indian Vista Scenic Outlook, an accessible paved overlook about nine miles from Idyllwild along the Palms-to-Pines National Scenic Byway. The best views are just a short walk from the parking area, which makes it an easy add-on to a day crammed with activities. You’ll get cool views of the desert below–plus plenty of mountain panoramas. Stick around post-sunset, and you just might spot wildlife including lizards, hawks, and gray foxes.
Where to eat and drink
Fuel your adventures with meals that range from hearty to hippie.

For a local gathering spot to delight all diets, Cafe Aroma
“Bistro, gallery, social club” reads the sign outside this cafe, and Cafe Aroma really means that last bit. The staff here is big on welcoming people and that extra care goes a long way, especially right now. The Italian-fusion menu changes with the seasons, and offers plenty of gluten-free and vegan options–there’s even cheery color-coding on the menu for easy browsing. People jockey for space on the homey outdoor deck, so it’s worth booking ahead. Or just planning to grab a drink, mingle, and enjoy the wait.
For classic comforts with a forest-kitch twist, Gastrognome
Need a reminder you’re in a quirky mountain town? Hightail it to Gastrognome, whose name brings together high-minded gastronomy and—yes— fairytale gnomes. Grab a seat under the evergreens on the patio on warm days, or cozy up in one of the fireplace-warmed rooms inside on cool nights. The menu includes classics like burgers, Beyond burgers, and BLTs; steakhouse faves like ribeye and filet of beef; and playfully named dishes like the French-dip-like Gnome Dip.

For regional Italian and wood-fired faves, Ferro
Modern Italian food, a big welcoming deck and yard, and the heavenly smells drifting from the outdoor wood-fired pizza oven make Ferro a favorite—especially in the hearts of hungry hikers. To do it right, gather your friends, kick it off with a cocktail, and spend the evening working your way through the all-out Italian menu from antipasti through primi, and secondi to pizza. Expect everything from carpaccio to wild-boar pasta (and a whole amari menu), and save room for the authentic gelato at the end.
For mile-high wine flights, Leanna’s Idyll Awhile Wine Shop and Bistro
Buckle up for a tasting flight that will take you on a tour of California. Leanna’s wine list covers all the heavy-hitting spots like Napa and lesser-known regions like Santa Lucia. (European wines are also sprinkled in for good measure). Pair a flight with a charcuterie-and-cheese board, a flatbread for the table, or just admit you’re hungry and order one of the tempting sandwiches or salads. Leanna’s also has a great beer list, a mix of domestic microbrews and Belgian, German, and even Icelandic brews.
For a blissed-out dark-chocolate break, El Buen Cacao
Tourist town fudge shop it’s not—El Buen Cacao is the real deal. Husband-and-wife owners Jessica and Erik have a passion for dark chocolate that has earned them a following way beyond Idyllwild. Swing by their HQ for a chance to chat with them and obviously sample their fair-labor bean-to-bar chocolates. It’s also the place to order a chocolate drink, like the Mexican hot chocolate, the classic house hot chocolate, or the super-decadent and rich sipping chocolate. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, so you can kick back and savor all the chocolatey goodness.
Places to stay
Find that perfect rustic-but-not-too-rustic spot for a good night’s sleep.

For national-park vibes and panoramic views, The Grand Idyllwild Lodge
The Grand Idyllwild Lodge goes big on the drama—starting with the waterfall that greets you on arrival. Picture windows in the lodge's living room frame the San Jacinto Mountains, and a wrap-around porch on the Craftsman-style building serves up more stunning views. The Lodge’s seven suites pile on the comfort—complete with beds that earn rave reviews and luxe linens. Daily breakfast plus an onsite spa, gym, and sauna give guests bigger-hotel amenities without the crowds. Other perks include a cozy library and nine-hole putting green, making it easy to unwind without going anywhere.
For a hot take on alpine chic, The Creekstone
A little modern, a little mountain, The Creekstone is an adorable new boutique hotel that looks right at home in its storybook digs. Many of the nine suites feature an electric fireplace, and each has its own vibe thanks to statement furniture pieces and bold wallpaper. This property is the playful kid-sister to The Grand Idyllwild Lodge. But parents, take note: Despite the fun decor, rooms max out at two occupants, so they aren’t family-sized.

For woodsy bed-and-breakfast charm, Strawberry Creek Inn
Just as sweet as the name implies, Strawberry Creek Inn lets you live out your small-town daydreams in a rambling wood-shingled B&B. Cozy rooms with fireplaces are tucked into the eaves, and a two-course hot organic breakfast is set out each morning. Outside under the tall pines, stretch out in a hammock. Or grab a book, settle into an Adirondack chair, and enjoy the sound of the breeze in the treetops.
For vintage furnishings and classic cool, The Fireside Inn
Rewind and unwind at The Fireside Inn. For a half century, this Idyllwild staple has been welcoming travelers with its throwback rustic charm. But that’s not to say it hasn’t been spruced up, adding details like organic sheets and Wi-Fi. A garden area with a grill means you can kick back and barbecue, then cozy up with a fire in the evening. (Every room has its own wood-burning fireplace.) And since many units have their own kitchens, you can save a little money making your own meals, or pack up a picnic before you hit the trails.
For your own cabin and creekside sleeps, Quiet Creek Inn: Surround yourself with Ponderosa pines, manzanita, and wild roses at Quiet Creek Inn. Studio and one-bedroom cabins dot the seven-acre property, and private decks overlooking Strawberry Creek give an ongoing show of local wildlife starring deer, rabbits, and bobcats. The cabins themselves have all the right touches: ultra-soft linens, kitchenettes, free Wi-Fi, premium cable, and on-demand movies. But let’s be real: While the cabins are part of the appeal, it’s really the sunlight-dappled creek, wildflowers blooming along its banks, that keep people coming back.
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