Why we love San Francisco’s Presidio

“It's also …” could be the official mantra of the Presidio of San Francisco. Today, it’s a 2.3-square-mile national park made up of coastline, forest, bluffs, and incredible Bay and Golden Gate Bridge views. But it’s also part of larger San Francisco, filled with buzzy restaurants, creative companies, amazing public art, museums, and hotels. And it’s also a place loaded with deep history, first as the ancestral homeland of the Yelamu; then as a site of Spanish and Mexican colonization; then came the Gold Rush; its years as a military base; and finally its national-park era.

Where can you hear the backstory of the land? Ask an archeologist. Kari Jones is a Presidio archaeologist who spends much of her time at the park’s dig site. As a storyteller with a spade, Jones can set the scene with a single item. Just ask her about the "trade beads" found in the Presidio. "Trade beads are what the Spanish settler-colonists brought with them to induce Indigenous people to perform work at the Presidio,” she says. In eight years of digging, only two have been found, but they’re a great example of a single object that tells a big story.

When she’s not working or talking to visitors, Jones loves to walk the park’s many paths and trails. “My latest favorite is the Tunnel Tops to Battery Bluff to Crissy Field loop back to our archaeological site,” she says. You can also stop by the archeological site in front of the Presidio Officers’ Club on Fridays April through October to see the archeologists in action. They’ll chat with you and answer questions. “We’re also very good at giving directions, if that’s all you need!” Jones says.

And for a quiet breather, Jones insists you can’t beat El Polin Spring. “When people ask me what this place must have been like hundreds or thousands of years ago, I often respond that I don’t know but suggest they go and find the spring itself, close their eyes, and listen to the water. That’s as close as I ever get.”

Ready to mix equal parts fun activities and total chill in one of San Francisco’s most beautiful spots? Here are our top suggestions for things to do plus where to eat and stay in and around San Francisco’s Presidio.

—Christine Sarkis, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

Nature rules here, but it’s not the only game in town.

The new Presidio Tunnel Tops is big news. That’s because a giant highway used to separate the beautiful grounds of the Presidio from the waterfront. Now, a walk in the park gets you between Presidio and water in a few short minutes. And what does it look like? Well, picture 14 acres of native plants, meandering paths, incredible views, and a two-acre nature-inspired playground for kids. While you’re there, stop by the Presidio Visitor Center, which is packed with activity suggestions and has a pretty great gift shop to boot. And don’t forget to stop by at sunset, when you can grab a seat and savor one of the world’s best views (as long as it’s not foggy)—the sun setting behind the Golden Gate Bridge.

It’s not a contest, but Baker Beach is San Francisco’s best beach and here’s why. First, it sits just outside the Golden Gate, angled in a way that delivers these amazing views—and a next-level backdrop for pics. Second, sometimes you can spot harbor porpoises playing in the water just off the beach. And this beach is a quick drive from the main part of the Presidio. Though it can get crowded on weekends, it never stops feeling like a hidden gem. Note: The far northern end of the beach is (unofficially) a clothing-optional space.

Need an excuse to go for a nature walk? Set off on a treasure hunt to find landscape artist Andy Goldworthy’s Wood Line sculpture. From the Main Post, follow the Lover’s Lane path up to the eucalyptus grove, where you’ll find a gently sloping 1,200-foot wavy line built out of tree trunks. The Presidio has the largest collection of Andy Goldsworthy works on public view in North America. If you’re up for a challenge, you can see all four of his works—Spire, Wood Line, Tree Fall, and Earth Wall—in a single three-mile hike. (Rangers at the visitors’ center can help you out with a map.)

What does it take to dream up dancing trees and flowers, magic kingdoms, and Mickey Mouse himself? At this museum in one of the old barracks facing the Presidio’s Main Parade Lawn, you can follow Walt Disney’s path from amateur high school cartoonist to entertainment icon. Learn about Walt and the rise of Disney with audio from the man himself, plus thousands of objects, rare footage, and interactive galleries. The non-profit museum also hosts workshops, movie nights, and other fun programs like animation festivals.

Love the springy feel of the trampoline? Get a rush from big bounces and airborne moments? Then a Presidio weekend won’t be complete without a session at House of Air. This super-fun spot across from Golden Gate Beach attracts a mix of kids and grown ups (that’s our way of saying you’re not going to feel out of place when you bounce so high you let out a shout of joy). There are open-jump times, pick-up trampoline dodgeball, and trampoline classes, plus a climbing wall if you’re in the mood for a less bouncy adrenaline rush.

Surprise! There’s a number of great dining options in this urban parkland.

Retro but not gimmicky, clubby but not dark—that’s the magic of Presidio Social Club. One of the first eateries to open here after the army base converted to a national park, this restaurant plays up the 1940s officers’ club vibe with classic cocktails like its “shaken not stirred” martini and nibbles like oysters and deviled eggs. Those mid-century inspired dishes meet modern faves—don’t miss the seasonal antipasti and burrata plate. Low-slung leather banquettes, a light-drenched wall of small paned windows, and a long marble bar add to the polished period mood. And on sunny weekend mornings, the large patio is the ultimate Presidio brunch spot, and the perfect excuse to start the day with olive oil cake.

This buzzy gastropub sits at the border of the Presidio right by the Chestnut Gate into the city, so you can expect a mix of Presidio chill with big-city energy. There’s always a wide variety of craft beers; and some of the restaurant’s fruit, veg, herbs, and olive oil comes directly from George Lucas’ Skywalker Ranch. (The Presidio is also home to Lucasfilm.) Bonus: Because of the Lucas connection, Sessions also serves wines from Skywalker wineries including Skywalker Vineyards in nearby Marin and Chateau Margüi in Provence.

You’re strolling along the water, watching the kiteboards pop along the Bay, when you suddenly realize: San Francisco is a LOT colder than L.A. Then you spot the Warming Hut, a cheery clapboard house that’s perfectly positioned to get you out of the chilly wind and into a hot cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate. There’s also snacks (yay!) plus some national park merch. And yes, they have sweatshirts.

A transplant from Union Square, Colibri has picked up on that officers’ club vibe so specific to the Presidio, with plenty of exposed beams, candles, and brick detailing. Grab a table inside or stay cozy underneath the heaters on the pretty little patio, sipping a fire-roasted-jalapeno-infused macho margarita. Then taste your way through the Central-Mexico-inspired dishes like pan-seared duck in green mole.

The heart of the Presidio is the giant Main Parade Lawn, aka the perfect picnic spot. The clipped grass and a gentle slope here gives everyone a clear sightline to the Bay. All these acres of picnic perfection were made even better when the Presidio’s daily food truck pop up debuted last summer. A rotating cast of some of the Bay Area’s best food trucks show up every day of the week from 9-ish to 5-ish. On any given day you might find pupusas, shave ice, chili crab fries, or margaritas.

With two options in the park and plenty more just beyond, you’ve got options.

Tucked away where the forest meets the Main Post, Inn at the Presidio is a restful spot that invites you to linger … on the front porch rocking chairs, out next to the cozy firepit, or simply in your room swaddled in a plush robe. This Georgian Revival-style building was the officers’ home back when the Presidio was an army post. And though it's now a LEED-certified boutique hotel, that history lives on in decorative touches like black-and-white photos, vintage maps, antique light fixtures, wall-mounted bugles, and even burlap-bagged hair dryers in rooms.

In its former life as an army barracks, the Lodge at Presidio housed army bachelors. These days, it’s a super-central boutique hotel with rooms that look out over the Main Parade Lawn and Presidio Tunnel Tops. It’s also the closest hotel in San Francisco to the Golden Gate Bridge. A gorgeous patio out back gives the perfect spot to enjoy the free happy hour drinks and nibbles, warm yourself around the fire pit, and gaze at an impressively up-close view of the bridge. Rooms hint at their history, but still have modern comforts and cozy vibes, just what you want on foggy evenings.

You don’t have to stay in the Presidio to make it the star of the weekend. Just off Lombard Street—about a 20-minute walk (or short drive) from the Presidio—sits Hotel Del Sol. This spot, a reimagined 1950s motor lodge, is blasted with bright colors and a playful spirit. Nothing is particularly fancy, but everything is fun, from the orange accent walls and Pop art in the rooms to the vibe in the shared courtyard, lawn, and heated pool. Stays include Wi-Fi, Google Chromecast, and a daily continental breakfast.

A stay at Cavallo Point Lodge just across the Golden Gate Bridge gives you one of the world’s most beautiful drives to and from the Presidio. Nestled into the space below the bridge on the Marin side, you’ll get a Presidio-like feel plus great city views from here. Choose from Colonial Revival rooms featuring vintage architectural details or go modern with contemporary hillside rooms or suites with radiant heat floors, roaring fireplaces, and floor-to-ceiling windows. Either way, you’re a quick drive (or bike ride) over the Golden Gate Bridge back to the Presidio.

If you’re the type that loves “playing house” when you’re on vacation, you can pretend to be a local with a stay at Pacific Heights’ Laurel Inn. This JDV by Hyatt property is tucked into a residential neighborhood and has 18 rooms with a studio apartment set-up that comes complete with a kitchenette. City views, freshly brewed coffee at the ready, and afternoon cookies every day round out that day-in-the-life feeling. It’s homey, low-key, and close to both the Presidio and other neighborhood spots like Golden Gate Park.