San Miguel de Allende guide: Hot springs, tequila tastings, and more

Though Mexico’s idyllic coastlines are getting a lot of attention right now, San Miguel de Allende deserves a spot at the top of your travel wish list. This beguiling city nestled in the country’s central highlands captures visitors’ hearts in a major way thanks to its perfectly preserved historic architecture, Bohemian vibe, and ample selection of impressive dining establishments and hotels. Plan a trip and prepare to fall hard.

There’s no bad time of year to visit San Miguel de Allende, but by far the best time to visit is in the autumn, when rainfall is low and the events' calendar is packed. Starting on September 6 with Mexican Independence Day, a string of fiestas make the months leading up to Christmas feel like one long party. Don’t miss the festivities for the city’s patron saint, Saint Michael the Archangel, which begin on September 29 with the parade of mojigangas—giant whimsical puppets—or the Day of the Dead celebrations in early November. As a city filled with artists, San Miguel really excels at theatrical attire.

San Miguel de Allende is a design lover’s dream. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, the city’s landmark buildings exemplify Baroque and neo-Gothic architectural styles distinct from the rest of Mexico. Perhaps its most famous is La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, a gorgeous, pale pink gothic church.

This design diversity is underpinned by a lot of fascinating history and the best way to learn all about it is with a guided walking tour. Book this private tour and experience the town’s beauty and charm by getting the lay of the land and insider info on what to see and do directly from a local. The tour usually includes stops at the Mercado Centro, the aforementioned La Parroquia, and other highlights.

It may not have a beach, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t serious relaxation to be found in San Miguel. At La Gruta (“the grotto”), a hot springs spa about 20 minutes outside of town, several pools and man-made caves draw throngs of locals and in-the-know tourists. Looking for some high-end pampering? The Live Aqua Spa at the Live Aqua Urban Resort offers a full menu of treatments, plus a large pool with swaying hammocks to chill in afterwards, while the Sense spa at the luxe Rosewood San Miguel de Allende features a massage lineup using techniques inspired by practices of the region’s indigenous Otomi people.

Beautiful weather and inimitable architectural aesthetics make rooftop dining an excellent choice in this town. You’re pretty much guaranteed beautiful views from the top of any building in San Miguel de Allende, but a few reservation-worthy spots include Quince Rooftop, an award-winning restaurant serving up sushi and mouth-watering cocktails while a resident DJ plays; Fatima 7, a veggie-friendly Mediterranean restaurant with a view of Templo de San Francisco; ATRIO, which serves Mexican-Asian fusion cuisine right next to La Parroquia; and Luna, an ambient tapas bar at the Rosewood. The fourth floor terrace of Trazo 1810 at Hotel Casa 1810, which is accessed through an art gallery, also feels like a quintessential San Miguel dining experience.

For a high-end tequila experience (no cheap shots in sight), book a tasting session at Casa Dragones. Founded by former MTV CEO Bob Pittman and the Mexican tequila entrepreneur Bertha González Nieves, Casa Dragones is billed as high-end sipping tequila, perfect for pairing with food or drinking neat. The San Miguel tasting room seats six people in a beautifully decorated space, and provides an education that will alter the way you drink tequila for the foreseeable future.

As one of the best preserved colonial cities in Mexico, San Miguel de Allende is composed of distinctive, colorful buildings dating back to Spanish rule. Many of these old buildings have been meticulously restored and turned into elegant hotels and B&Bs blending modern Mexican decor with historic architectural bones.

Casa Delphine is owned by American jewelry designer Amanda Keidan, who bought and revamped an old five-room hotel and updated the interior using her professional eye for design. The result—which opened in 2019—is a zen-like environment with a distinctly social atmosphere, thanks to the giant dining table which plays host to curated community dinners and events.

San Miguel de Allende’s first luxury hotel, Belmond’s Casa de Sierra Nevada, is composed of an ensemble of noteworthy 17th-century buildings decorated with antiques and traditional tiling. Situated right in the center of town, the hotel is well positioned for meandering the cobblestone streets, but a step through the ancient front door and a leafy courtyard offers immediate tranquility.

Good for more than just a spa day, the Travelers’ Choice Award–winning Rosewood San Miguel de Allende turned a 16th-century Spanish colonial mansion a little further out of town into a hacienda-style hotel. Wood-beamed ceilings, stone arches, and a rich color palette give the property a classic Mexican feel and rooms come with their own outdoor space—be it balcony, terrace, or rooftop.