6 coastal Portuguese towns for a summer escape
From the Venice of Portugal to the surfing capital of Nazaré.
Thanks to increased flight service, trendy new hotels, and unrivaled art institutions, Lisbon and Porto are emerging as some of the most popular (and easiest and most affordable and friendliest) European city escapes. But for a true taste of the country’s magic, explore its surprisingly diverse coastline, home to surfing hubs for extreme adventure seekers, hamlets with centuries of architectural history, and stylish beach escapes attracting the global fashion set.
From either of the major cities, you’re only a short drive to the Silver Coast, or Costa de Prata, which stretches between them. Ahead, six towns in the Costa de Prata and beyond to visit on your next summer getaway.
If you’ve watched the HBO docuseries 100 Foot Wave, you might already be familiar with this fishing village, about a 90-minute drive north of Lisbon. Thanks to Europe’s largest underwater canyon, waves here swell to gargantuan proportions, making beaches like Praia do Norte a pilgrimage spot for daredevils. In fact, Sebastian Steudtner, an acclaimed German surfer, broke the record for the highest wave ever surfed: an adrenaline-pumping 86 feet. You can get in on the action with lessons (on decidedly smaller waves!) from outfitters like Surf 4 You.
Beyond adventure sports, the town still has a traditionalist streak, and you might spot older local women wearing embroidered flannel skirts made bulky by layers upon layers of petticoats. And at the no-frills Rosa dos Ventos, which is decked out with black-and-white photos and antique trinkets, you’ll be welcomed like family over simple seafood dishes like buttery clams and grilled squid, served with chilled vinho verde.
Where to stay: Nature lovers shouldn’t miss booking a few nights at Ohai Nazaré Outdoor Resort, a quirky retreat within the Iberian Peninsula’s largest pine forest with glamping tents, bungalows, and a swimming pool made out of recycled shipping containers.
Tip: If you’re coming in the summer, don’t expect to see 10-story-tall waves, as they peak in October and November. Regardless of season, you can check wave conditions (and get live views) on sites like Surfline before you make the trip.
History runs deep in this town on the banks of the Gilão River, about a three-hour drive from Lisbon on Portugal’s sunny Algarve coast. On a short stroll, you can take in a medieval castle atop archaeological remains dating back to the eighth century BC, a Moorish-era bridge, and the Renaissance Igreja da Misericórdia, decorated with elaborate blue-and-white azulejo tiles.
Just outside of town sit the salt pans of the Ria Formosa Natural Park, which attracts an abundance of gorgeous bird life, including bluethroats, European bee-eaters, and greater flamingos. Their splashing around may inspire you to take a dip, and you’ll find white-sand beaches a quick ferry ride away on Tavira Island. Once home to a historic tuna-fishing industry, the island now welcomes sun seekers to its laid-back seafood spots.
Where to stay: In these parts, you can even sleep in a bit of history: The Pousada Convento de Tavira occupies a 16th-century convent that once housed cloistered Augustinian nuns.
At about 20 miles due west of Lisbon, Cascais emerged as a see-and-be-seen seaside resort in the late 19th century, popularized by King Luís I and the nobility who decamped here seasonally. During World War II, the glammed-up former fishing village welcomed exiled nobles and royal families from across Europe with open arms, and their palatial residences have now been reborn as museums (like the Museu Condes de Castro) and grand hotels. To immerse yourself in the world of early-20th-century nobles and spies, swing by the modernist Casino Estoril, which was the inspiration for Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel Casino Royale.
Where to stay: For a taste of palatial glamor, bed down at the Albatroz Hotel, which started life in 1873 as the Duke of Loulé’s palace, or the Grande Real Villa Itália, which sits in the former home of King Humberto II of Italy.
Few Portuguese towns have changed their fortunes as dramatically as Comporta, a once-rustic rice-farming community that has been remade as a celebrity-magnet. Located about an hour south of Lisbon, Comporta comprises seven hamlets stretching between the dolphin-filled waters of the Sado Estuary and the Atlantic Coast. In recent years, the dunes and seafood shacks have welcomed the likes of Phillipe Starck, Christian Louboutin, and even Madonna. But despite its A-list visitors, you’ll encounter a barefoot-chic vibe throughout the area. Master the look yourself at locally owned boutiques like Rice and Lavanda.
Where to stay: Among the newer openings in the area are AlmaLusa Comporta, which is brimming with art by local makers like photographer João Trindade, and the Sublime Comporta Country House Retreat, a wellness retreat with dreamy pools surrounded by more than 40 acres of mature pine and cork trees.
Widely known for its connection to seafaring history and Age of Discovery, this windswept corner of the Algarve is a landscape of geographical extremes: Cabo de São Vicente is the southwesternmost corner of the European mainland, marked by a little red lighthouse and sheer cliff faces where white storks precariously build their nests. Despite its larger-than-life reputation, Sagres is also home to decidedly more down-to-earth creature comforts, like Laundry Lounge Sagres, a laundromat that doubles as a funky café where you can order nourishing breakfasts to the soundtrack of live blues, reggae, and bossa nova.
Where to stay: Post up at the modernist Memmo Baleeira Hotel, where you can sign up for yoga and meditation retreats.
Tip: If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, use Sagres as a jumping-off point for the Rota Vicentina, a network of biking and hiking trails that comprises two routes: The 163-mile Historical Way, which stretches up the Algarve coast through cork forests, and the more challenging, 141-mile Fisherman’s Trail, which hugs the Atlantic along cliffs and sandy terrain.
Renowned for its Art Nouveau architecture, this coastal city in the Centro Region, about an hour south of Porto, is often called the Venice of Portugal, and it’s not difficult to see why: Aveiro sits on a lagoon, its streets are crisscrossed by a series of canals, and its waters are plied by gondola-like barcos moliceiros, colorful boats that were historically used for seaweed harvesting.
If you enjoy Portugal’s famed pasteis de nata tarts, be sure to try the town’s very own confection: ovos moles de Aveiro, or “soft eggs.” Formed into nautical shapes like shells, fish, and boats, they have the consistency of a Catholic communion wafer filled with a sweet, eggy paste. Learn about their holy history (they were invented by nuns) and pick up a box at Oficina do Doce, a museum where you can also make your own confections.
Where to stay: Spot barcos moliceiros from your room at the Hotel Moliceiro, which sits adjacent to the launch point for scenic boat tours and remains surprisingly quiet, despite its proximity to Aveiro’s action.