See Florence one step at a time
Pack your walking shoes and hit the streets.
Florence is all beauty. Walk anywhere and you'll stumble on a Renaissance palazzo or a drop-dead gorgeous view of the Arno. It's a fact Florentines are deeply proud of—and despite all the tourists (and there are a lot), it’s so worth exploring. I know because—lucky for me—I'm married to an Italian and come here often.
The city is compact and super easy to navigate on foot (the downtown historic center doesn't even allow cars). And on my treks around town, I’ve discovered tons of great finds, from the hidden to the iconic. So put on your Tuscan leather loafers (this is the home of brands like Ferragamo and Gucci, after all) and let's stroll.
Walk 1: Iconic landmarks and standout food
Your stops
Total walking time, 3 hrs, slow pace
1. First: to peek behind the elaborate marble façade of the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella. This was the city’s first great church (completed in 1360!), but—trust me—what you’re truly here for is the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, just around the corner. It’s the oldest pharmacy in the world, and it stocks beauty products made from ancient formulas created by Dominican friars. (I’m obsessed with must-haves like the potpourri sachets made from herbs and flowers picked in the Tuscan hills.)
2. From the basilica, follow Via Vecchietti to the clothing shop Flow Store, housed in a 13th century building, of course. Kim and Kanye put it on the heat map, but mere mortals can shop for up-and-coming Italian labels like shoemaker Gianna Meliani and womenswear designer Jeija, as well as vintage books and accessories. The Pecchioli family who owns Flow have been called the Medicis of fashion and they also have a cool concept store Gerard around the corner.
Travelers say: "Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella dates back in 1221 Florence and has an interesting story. Besides the products, which smell wonderful, you can find here old tools used for manufacturing perfume and other cosmetic products."—@mirunavrn
3. If you’re into fashion, you’ll love my next stop: the Gucci Garden, which carries special-edition pieces available nowhere else in the world. It’s also home to the 50-seat restaurant, Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura. This is one of the most coveted reservations in town and turns out the famous “Tortellini Walking on Broth” dish, but my advice: Save your appetite for one of my favorite insider spots (more on that later).
4. Walk north toward my go-to coffee stop, La Menagere, passing by another Florence icon: the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (you know the one). The Cathedral—along with its marble bell tower, the Campanile di Giotto—looks as intricate and delicate as a pop-up paper card. A tip: The lines to go inside are insane, so if you want to check out the duomo and its cupola, make sure you pick up skip-the-line tickets beforehand.
5. La Menagere isn’t just a café, it sells stunning floral designs and has live music, too—it’s a whole vibe. Grab a cappuccino or my go-to cocktail: Agave Punch, a creamy tequila-based concoction. If you love markets, you’ll be tempted by the nearby Mercato di San Lorenzo with its street food, florists, cheesemongers, and vintners spread over two levels. This used to be the place to buy Florentine leather, but be careful with the fakes. My trusted source is a little stand in the market called Giorgio 1966 Leather Factory.
6. Good thing you saved your appetite: My top spot for lunch, Cibrèo Caffè, is just a 15-minute walk away. Grab a table outside and order the standout cibrèo, a rustic Tuscan chicken recipe cooked with an egg that Catherine de’ Medici loved.
Travelers say: "Located on the peripheries of the central city, [Cibrèo Caffè] and [the] adjoining restaurant of the same name cater to the local neighborhood and consequently have a friendlier and easier vibe. Like most Italian places, this cafe is not going to move at American speeds, so if that's a requirement, you should look elsewhere."—@scottkH9606RD
7. The oldest market in Florence, Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, is just around the corner (everything is walkable in this city) and I love to go there to people-watch. It’s also fun to learn all about Italian food from the chatty vendors (and here’s the good news—travelers can get by with little to no Italian).
8. Take a moment to swing by the Basilica of Santa Croce, then head to the concept store Société Anonyme, where you’ll find cool new brands from all over Europe like Closed Official (a German handmade denim company) and Henrik Vibskov (a Danish fashion designer, artist, curator, and musician).
9. End the day with an authentically Florentine experience: Teatro del Sale, where you can dine on dishes from Cibrèo (just across the street) and check out seriously good plays, comedians, and musicians, from jazz guitarists to one of the best harmonica players in Italy.
Hotel pick: I’m a huge fan of the Four Seasons because it’s got the most magical garden—it’s perfect for an aperitivo at the end of the day (even if you’re not a guest). Another great (and more affordable) favorite in the area is NH Collection Firenze Palazzo Gaddi. Its rooftop bar Palazzo Gaddi has a dazzling perspective of the city and Brunelleschi’s famous dome.
Walk 2: History and intrigue: the Vasari Corridor
Only a little bit more than half a mile in length, the Vasari Corridor is one of the most exclusive walks in Florence—jam-packed with history and intrigue. It’s been closed since 2016, but good news: You can take a private tour with a company like All Around Florence, and I highly recommend it. (Rumor has it that some time in 2023 the Vasari Corridor will be reopening to the public from Tuesday through Sunday.)
Your stops
Total walking time, 2hrs, slow pace
1. Most travelers start their visit in the Uffizi Gallery, but the official (and best) entrance to the Vasari Corridor is at Palazzo Vecchio, the medieval town hall that’s now a museum. A small bridge connects Palazzo Vecchio to the Uffizi, where you’ll go through a private door and enter an elevated passageway lined with all the masters, from Rembrandt to Reubens.
2. The Vasari takes you along the Arno river over the famed Lungarno degli Archibusieri. Turn left and you’ll cross the Ponte Vecchio, literally above the gold shops that span the bridge. (Talk about a bird’s-eye perspective.) Don’t miss the Mannelli Tower—a killer photo-op panoramic of the Arno and city.
Travelers say: "[Ponte Vecchio is] crowded, of course! But walk along the river towards the bridge for some photographs and wonderful views of this most famous bridge. It used to be a fish market where the fishermen would deliver the fish to the tiny shops along the bridge. Now all of these are rather expensive jewelery shops. But the views are amazing!"—@Tracy L
3. After crossing the Ponte Vecchio, slip into the Santa Felicita church, where the Medicis used to attend private mass. There’s a small chapel inside designed by Brunelleschi that’s worth a peek.
4. The corridor officially ends at Palazzo Pitti, but exit at the Boboli Gardens, instead. This is one of the few gardens in Florence–and it’s stunning. Relax for a bit, but make sure you’ve got water; because it’s hot in summer. For lunch, I’m all about the nearby Olivia, a small farm-to-table bistro that uses olive oil made on the owners’ Frantoio di Santa Téa farm.
Hotel pick: The Vasari Corridor takes you right through the Palazzo Guicciardini, which has been transformed into a boutique hotel with frescoes everywhere. The rooms can be a little noisy, but their massive size makes up for it.
Walk 3: Off-the-beaten-path Oltrarno
For decades, travelers would only cross the Arno River to explore the Boboli Gardens or Palazzo Pitti and quickly return to the other side. Now, the Oltrarno district—which literally means “the other side of the Arno”—has become the city’s hip quartiere. This side is the real deal: Locals go about their daily lives and you’ll find tons of artisan workshops and tiny bars and restaurants in gorgeous Renaissance buildings.
Your stops
Total walking time, 3hrs, slow pace
1. First stop: Dolcissima, my favorite pastry shop and a serious Oltrarno institution. My go-to order is the cantuccini (similar to a biscotti) with a glass of vin santo, a Tuscan dessert wine.
2. Make your way along Costa San Giorgio, a narrow cobblestone street and head toward the Bardini Museum. Most visitors skip this under-the-radar place, but it reminds me of the Frick in New York and the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston, filled with eclectic collections of everything from carpets to a room full of Madonnas. Bonus: There’s never a line to get in, and the ancient garden has one of the best views of the city.
Travelers say: "Piazza Michelangelo, which also has a terrific view over Florence, is often crowded with tourists. Villa Bardini is a more romantic place which allows you to admire Florence in a more intimate way! Beautiful alleys and terraces."—@dt_mon
3. Get ready for a steep 15-minute walk uphill to Forte Belvedere for another mind-blowing city view. And if you want more panoramas, head to Piazzale Michelangelo. The Arno, the basilica—it’s all a picture-perfect snapshot from this neoclassical piazza with a giant replica of Michaelangelo’s David in the center. My advice: Go at sunset when most of the tour buses are gone.
4. It’s aperitivo time. Head back down to the Santo Spirito area and get a table in the greenhouse at Le Serre Torrigiani. The perfect drink for this setting: the Basilico cocktail, made with basil-infused mezcal and bergamot.
5. For dinner, two of my favorite spots for pasta with cinghiale (a Tuscan wild boar ragu) and a fiorentina steak—both absolute musts if you’re a meat eater—are Angiolino Ai 13 Arrosti and Trattoria del Carmine in San Frediano. You could always eat inside, but I recommend one of the tables that spill out into the Piazza del Carmine.
A tip: If you happen to be walking around on a Sunday, you’re in luck: Piazza Santo Spirito turns into a market filled with one-of-a-kind antique furniture. (And don’t worry about lugging it on the plane: The vendors are set up for shipping stuff home, though keep in mind that it’s not cheap.)
Hotel pick: If you prefer to be in the quieter Oltrarno, Palazzo Guadagni is your best bet. Its Loggia Rooftop garden bar alone is worth the stay and an ideal spot to take in a Florentine sunset after a day of exploring.