Discover the breathtaking landscape of Death Valley

Dipping ever so slightly into Nevada, on the very eastern edge of California, sits Death Valley National Park. This is a place of extremes—the National Parks Service doesn’t mince words, calling it the "hottest, driest, and lowest national park" in the nation. But as Abby Wines, a management analyst at the park, knows all too well, it's also a place of such immense beauty that it will make you catch your breath.

"I think one of the things that really draws people to this place is the peacefulness of it," says Wines, who requested a transfer to Death Valley nearly 20 years ago, seeking out its zen-like vibe. She believes city-dwellers are drawn by its peaceful energy because in the desert, "there's no noise at all. You come out here, park your car, and just hike to a random canyon that you see and be completely alone. The park is a refuge for us in this crazy, chaotic life."

Coming here, Angelinos can swap out congested streets for smooth, sandy dunes, jagged mountains, dazzling salt flats as far as the eye can see, and—if the conditions are right—an explosion of wildflowers in spring. It's also a place where you can find life where it shouldn't exist at all, including several regional species you won't find anywhere else on earth, proving you can not only survive but thrive in this harsh environment.

Despite the name, Death Valley has a softer side. As Wines says you just need to time your visit before the heat of summer sets in, so you can experience it all at its best. This, she says, is when the air will wrap you in a warm (but not too oppressive) hug, the sun stays out just a little longer to let your adventure continue into the evening, and the whole park feels like it’s springing back to life.

"I feel it the closer I get to the park," she says. "It's a very physical reaction. It makes my heart feel light."

Ready to lighten your heart and feel that desert calm? In this edition of The WeekEnder, we're taking you through the must-see scenic spots, the diners and dives that make for a stellar desert meal, and the most comfortable accommodations so you can experience Death Valley at its best.

—Stacey Leasca, SoCal’s Senior WeekEnder Guide

See all the life that Death Valley has to offer.

Did you set foot on a martian planet? Nope, you’re just visiting Badwater Basin. Here you’ll find blinding white salt flats straight to the horizon. This region of the park lays claim to being the lowest point in North America, sitting 282 feet below sea level. And though it looks inhospitable, it’s actually home to some pretty cool flora and fauna, including a snail species only found here.

Love a good mystery? Then head to The Racetrack. Its dozens of massive rocks, some weighing close to 700 pounds, appear as though they’ve been dragged across the flat by someone—or something. Scientists did crack the case back in 2014: The rocks do indeed move, thanks to a small amount of water—just a few centimeters will do. That water freezes during the chilly winter nights, creating “windowpane” ice that shoves the rocks around. Mystery solved.

Sneak in a little human history along with all your natural history by checking out the Charcoal Kilns. Their beehive-like structures, which tower some 25 feet high, were used by the Modock Consolidated Mining Company in the late 1800s to create fuel for nearby smelters. Though long abandoned, the kilns are in remarkably decent shape, giving a good picture of what work here was like hundreds of years ago. They’re also super easy to access as they sit just a short walk from a parking area.

Surprise! Death Valley does have water. But one of the only places you’ll find it is along the Salt Creek Interpretive Trail. The quick, .5-mile boardwalk trail takes visitors through a salty marsh area, home to the Salt Creek Pupfish, which only live in Death Valley. The pupfish has adapted over the millennia to survive in the super-salinated waters, which you can learn more about with all the trail signs. Just be sure to stay on the boardwalk, as this is a hyper-sensitive environmental area.

See the park’s best features all in one shot on a scenic trip down Artist Drive. The nine-mile, one-way road takes visitors through several canyons with looming mountains hovering on either side. You’ll coast past Artists Palette, which looks like it’s splashed with pastel paint hues. The drive also takes guests past Badwater, the Devil’s Golf Course, and the Racetrack all in one go.

Kick it Old West-style at Death Valley’s coolest watering holes.

The Panamint Springs Resort Restaurant isn’t the place to go for a lengthy menu. But what it lacks in quantity, it makes up for in quality, with simple dishes like Angus beef Burgers, fish and chips, and easy chicken tenders that are ideal for kids and kids at heart. And, if you see a pizza on the menu, get it. Plus, it’s got salads, in case you’re craving some greens.

Those on the hunt for a beer—and a little old-timey outlaw atmosphere—will love the Badwater Saloon. The saloon looks like it hopped right out of the Old West, with its rustic wooden doors, high bar, and wagon wheels strewn about the place. But don’t worry, no one is going to challenge you to a dual. The only thing they sling here is a great beer, including its private Death Valley label beer. If there are non-beer drinkers in the group, the bar does have an extensive wine and cocktail list, too, and even serves a light lunch if you’re hungry.

Want a proper meal to go along with the beers at Badwater Saloon? Head next door to the Toll Road Restaurant. Just like its sister pub, the restaurant is kitted out with throwback details, including a stone hearth, rich wood walls and ceilings, and plenty of wagon pieces hanging on the walls. Though it looks low-key, the food certainly hits a high note. Come here for burgers (including a tasty chipotle black bean burger), mushroom pasta, and even a grilled flat iron steak with herb garlic butter and fingerling potatoes for good measure.

This destination, like the others on this list, looks like a relic from a past era, a prospector pitstop on their way to the California gold rush. Here, you’ll find old-school paraphernalia like “wanted” posters on the walls and plenty of cattle skulls hovering overhead. It’s the perfect place to hunker down for a meal after adventuring all day and refueling with bites of barbecued ribs, pasta dishes, and wild Alaskan salmon, all washed down with a beer or a whiskey.

Those really feeling the heat in Death Valley can find the perfect end-of-day cooldown at The Ice Cream Parlor. This time, instead of going back to the Old West, this spot takes you back to the 1950s with a pitch-perfect recreation of a soda shop. Perch on the deep green swivel chairs and ask the soda jerk to grab you a scoop or even make you a frosty, tall, and super bubbly ice cream float.

Unwind in total comfort at these classic getaways.

The Inn at Death Valley has been welcoming guests since 1927 and underwent a multi-million dollar renovation in 2018 to restore it to its former glory. The owners took every measure to recreate the rooms as they were when the hotel’s doors first opened, right down to getting custom art deco furnishings made to match. Common spaces are just as glam, including a palm garden, an oversized pool, and atmospheric art sprinkled across the property, including Frederic Remington statues in the lobby.

Those traveling with the whole gang will appreciate Ranch at Death Valley. This former real-life working ranch was also transformed and now includes rooms done up in mid-century decor, including standard rooms that are great for couples and superior rooms with two queen beds for families. (This is also home to The Fiddler’s Campground for those rolling in with their own RV.) Guests of the ranch and the camp can splash around in the spring-fed pool, book a tee time on the golf course, or visit the stables to take a horseback ride or pet the ponies.

Stovepipe Wells Village may not come with the frills of the hotels listed above, but where it does have an advantage is location, location, location. The hotel sits in the middle of Death Valley National Park, giving guests instant access to its famed attractions. And it still comes with everything you need for a solid stay, including comfortable beds and a fully stocked General Store. Plus, it’s the home of both the Badwater Saloon and Toll Road Restaurant, so you have food and drink options at the ready.

Get a sense of what life was like in Death Valley during its golden era with a stay at Amargosa Opera House. The hotel and opera house, built in 1924, sits at the one-time town center. It too maintains much of its original charms, including antique Victrolas, a well-loved fireplace in the common area, and worn-in couches. Guests can also go on daily tours of the gorgeous opera house and look up to see the original murals adorning every wall, straight up and over the ceiling.

If you consider pitching a tent under the stars as one of the best parts of visiting America’s national parks, come to Furnace Creek Campgrounds. Here campers will find plenty of spaces for their tent or RV, along with fire rings for roasting s’mores at night, bathrooms, and perhaps most coveted of all in this area, excellent cell service.