All Articles A first-timer's guide to the Island of Hawaii

A first-timer's guide to the Island of Hawaii

Tips and tricks for tackling your first vacay to Hawaii.

By Mark Sullivan4 Mar 2024 7 minutes read
Hawaii's Kilauea Caldera at Twilight
Kilauea Caldera
Image: Kevin Thrash/Getty Images

The Island of Hawaii has everything that Oahu and Maui have—plus a little bit extra. The mountains here are huge, hundreds of feet taller than any you'll find on those other islands. And the peaks of the highest one, Mauna Kea, are dusted with snow. (Bet you didn’t imagine snow on your Hawaiian holiday, did you?)

Then there are the beaches. They’re ranked among the best in the world, with sand that runs the gamut from silky gold to inky black and even glittering green. (The last type is incredibly rare; only three other beaches in the world have this type of volcanic sand.)

But you’re probably headed here for the chance to see glowing lava fields or gaze down into a caldera at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Four of the region's most active volcanoes are on Hawaii Island, and you have a better chance of seeing an eruption here than anywhere else in the islands. Another top reason to visit the island.

There’s a ton to do on the Island of Hawaii, as the locals call it (you may also hear it referred to as the “Big Island,” which is more of a tourist term, or simply “Hawaii Island’), especially if you’re a lover of the outdoors.

Here’s everything you need to know for your first trip there.

Must-sees on your first trip to Hawaii Island

When to go

The Island of Hawaii enjoys year-round tropical weather, with highs of around 85 degrees from May to October and 78 degrees from November to April, with temperatures about 10 degrees cooler at night, and dipping down even lower the higher up into the mountains you go.

The wettest months are November to March, but rain is often localized, and it could be sunny just a short drive away. From December to March—especially mid-December to January—the island attracts masses of mainlanders looking to escape winter weather. There's another influx in the summer months of June and July.

If you'd prefer to avoid the crowds, consider the shoulder seasons of spring (April and May) and fall (September and October). Temperatures are still warm, the humidity is low, and rainy days are rare.

Budget enough time

With more than 250 miles of coastline, there's a lot to explore on the Island of Hawaii. Make sure you build enough time into your schedule to see everything. Five to seven days is a good place to start; less time than this and you're going to have to start crossing things off your must-see list.

Tip: Like a lot of first-timers, you might be tempted to split your time between two islands. If you have less than two weeks, don’t do it. That extra travel day will cut into your limited vacation time. Instead of seeing a bit of two islands, focus on one.

How to get around

You’re probably wondering whether to rent a car. We say go for it, as it will make getting around much easier. With just a couple of major roads — one follows the coastline, the other cuts directly across the center — Hawaii Island is a cinch to navigate. It's nearly impossible to get lost.

What if you don't want to rent a car? Uber and Lyft are a decent option for getting to your hotel or a nearby restaurant, but they're not an ideal way to see the most distant sights. Without wheels of your own, your best bet is to book with a tour company to get around the island.

Tip: Locals tend to give you directions using just two terms, either Mauka (toward the mountains) and Makai (toward the ocean). Pretty soon, you'll be using this lingo to explain your island path, too.

Which coast should you pick?

Pololu Valley Lookout, with views of lush green cliff along ocean
Pololu Valley Lookout
Image: Colleen Bradley/Getty Images

The Kailua-Kona side of the island—the leeward side that's protected from the strongest winds—is where you'll find the best beaches, along with a wide range of surfing, sailing, and other water sports. It's also a good base for visiting the Pololu Valley and other sights on the island's northern tip. Because of these advantages, most of the island's accommodations are clustered along its western coast.

The windward side of the island, which includes Hilo and other areas near the east coast — is also popular. It's not near the beaches, but it serves as a gateway to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Since seeing bubbling lava is probably why you came to Hawaii Island, it's smart to stay in the lodges around the communities of Hilo or Volcano.

Tip: split your time between both sides of the island. You'll cut down on travel time when you're headed out to see the sights and give yourself more freedom to explore.

Travelers say: “Splitting the Island up into different days of driving is a very good idea. A north drive to Pololu, A Waterfall day over to Hilo, a south trip to the Volcano are good general days of driving.” —@K0na_Girl808

Maximize your chances of seeing some lava

Whether you'll see an active lava flow depends on if there have been any recent eruptions of the Kilauea or Mauna Loa volcanoes. The good news is that they are two of the most active volcanoes in the world, spewing forth every two or three years. In the past couple of years, Kilauea has been especially active, with eruptions sometimes taking place two or three times a year and lasting from a few weeks to a few months.

You can't predict when these volcanoes will erupt. A few weeks before your trip, check the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park website for information on current conditions. You might find some roads are closed or access to some hiking trails is limited, so plan accordingly. Then check again when you arrive and adjust your itinerary as necessary.

Travelers say: “The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is probably THE place everyone comes to visit while on the Big Island, and it is totally worth it. We were glad to have our Gortex jackets to protect us from periodic rain showers during the February rainy season, but the views, steam vents, sulfur flats, a lava tube and miles of exercise were all still totally worth it.” —@Walter C.

If your trip coincides with an eruption, your chances of seeing rivers of lava or the glow from the caldera are pretty good. Park rangers are your best source of information on where the best vantage points for whenever the lava happens to be flowing. Booking an excursion with a tour company means you won't have to navigate roads in the dark. (Yes, nighttime is when you'll get the best views.)

When there's an eruption, your tour options increase. Helicopter tours allow you to gaze straight down into the lake of fire in the caldera. A favorite company of Tripadvisor readers is Safari Helicopters, which offers tours over the island throughout the year. If the lava is tumbling into the ocean, boat excursions are a great way to see this spectacular sight.

Best ways to see the lava

Other things to see

Hawaiian green turtles relaxing at Punaluu Black Sand Beach on the Big Island
Punaluu Black Sand Beach
Image: MNStudio/Getty Images

Even if there's not a current eruption, there's plenty to keep you occupied in and around Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Above ground, you can hike to the summit of the Mauna Loa, the slightly less active of the island's two volcanoes. You can even stay overnight in a cabin on the edge of the crater. And the island's highest peak, the cinder-covered Mauna Kea, is a great spot to watch the sunset or take in more stars than are likely to see anywhere else.

Below ground, the Thurston Lava Tube is among the most popular sights in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. It's a very short in-and-out trip (although if you have claustrophobia, it may still seem a bit too long). If you want to get some real spelunking experience, head a bit off the beaten path to the miles of twisting caves at Kilauea Caverns of Fire.

You don't even have to break a sweat to see some breathtaking sights. Head down Chain of Craters Road from Volcano to see the rocky coastline and the gravity-defying Holei Sea Arch. And a drive to the Punaluu Black Sand Beach on the southern coast takes you to a palm-fringed beach where you're likely to see green sea turtles dozing and catching a few rays.

Travelers say: “Cannot stress enough...get [to Thurston Lava Tube) early..make this the first stop of the day, and be there when it opens. The parking lot gets full and then you have to drive over to an overflow parking lot and hike down from there. Just be there early and enjoy this wonderful attraction in Volcano National Park” –@Moushumi M.

Where to eat

You usually don’t need to make a reservation for most restaurants on Hawaii Island. The island is pretty chill, and even the fanciest places aren’t that fancy.

The tower of ahi tuna that you’re served at Jackie Rey’s in Kailua-Kona is just one of the dishes that seems to defy gravity. Everything on the menu tastes like it was swimming around that morning. Da Poke Shack doesn’t sit right on the beach, but you can definitely see the waves from the front door. This popular takeout joint in Kailua-Kona serves some of the island’s freshest fish. Take yours to one of the picnic tables on the water’s edge.

On the other side of the island, Hilo’s Cafe Pesto sits across from where the waves crash against the rocks. There are plenty of Italian dishes on the menu, with pork raised on the island in the bolognese sauce and freshly caught jumbo shrimp in the risotto.

Where to stay

Outdoor pool with surrounding loungers and palm trees, next to the beach
Mauna Lani, Auberge Resorts Collection
Image: Management/Tripadvisor

In Waimea, the elegant Mauna Lani has a pretty swimming pool tucked away under the palm trees. You might like it here so much that you never make it to the beach, which is literally just down the path. The common areas are incredibly inviting, but if you’re looking for some solitude, there’s that here as well. This is one of our favorite places to stay on the island.

The Royal Kona Resort, which resembles a cruise ship, puts you right on Kailua Bay. The more than 400 rooms are open and airy, with views past the palm trees to the ocean.

If you’re looking for something that’s less on a grand scale, the Inn at Kulaniapia Falls has just over a dozen simply furnished rooms. It’s set back in the greenery, just a short walk from a waterfall.

Mark Sullivan
Mark Sullivan is a longtime travel and lifestyle corespondent. He has written dozens of articles and has contributed to more than 200 travel guides.