3 perfect days in Split

Dubrovnik may get the spotlight, but if you ask me, Split is Croatia's real star. I’ve been coming to the Dalmatian Coast way before it was considered cool and here’s the truth: The famous sapphire seas and swaying palms along Riva Promenade in downtown Split are just the beginning.

Dalmatia’s largest city rewards travelers who like to venture out and explore. The ancient city has lived many lives, from serving as the capital of the Roman Empire to later heydays under Byzantium and Venice. And they’ve all left their marks. This three-day itinerary takes in all the history plus more modern attractions like great seafood spots and breezt beach bars, with help from Tripadvisor users along the way.

On your first day, make a beeline to the city’s biggest attraction: Diocletian’s Palace. Trust me, it’s a good idea to go as early as possible, for two main reasons. To beat the heat—and the crowds pouring off the cruise ships that are often in port.

Diocletian was born anonymous and poor. But as a superstar soldier, he rose quickly through the Roman ranks. When both the emperor (Carus) and his son (Numerian) were killed in battle, his compatriots declared him head of the empire. As emperor, he moved the capital here to his hometown, built a huge palace (big enough to house a garrison of soldiers), and ruled from 284 to 305 AD.

Today, the ruins that remain still occupy about half of Split’s Old Town. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and large enough to spend a whole day (plenty of people do that). Marvel at massive marble blocks, Egyptian columns, and the mausoleum of the late emperor himself.

Kinoteka is my preferred place to fuel up before an afternoon of exploration. It’s tucked into a 500-year-old courtyard that was once part of a noble palace. It specializes in upscale twists on Croatian favorites, including fresh seafood—I highly recommend the prawn risotto.

Then, wander. It’s best not to follow a formal list of attractions to see and do. Rather, just get lost in the narrow lanes and surprise tunnels and lovely squares. That being said, it’s worth making sure you check a few boxes. You’ll stumble upon parts of the palace—they’re interspersed with all the other buildings.

You’ll pass through the Peristyle, which was once Diocletian’s main courtyard. (You don’t want to linger—by this time of day, it will be crowded!) It’s definitely worth taking some time at St Domnius Cathedral, built in the 7th century and regarded as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the entire world still in its original structure. The on-site Treasury includes relics from the church’s namesake saint, as well as very old chalices, books, and vestments. Climb the 200 steps to the top of the adjoining Bell Tower—the whole sweep of the city will be beneath your feet.

WALKING TOUR OPTIONS

Walking down the Riva—the city’s main promenade—you feel like you’re strolling through a James Bond film. Or something else super-Mediterranean and cool. Go a little early, as afternoon starts to wane and cool breezes blow off the water, and settle into a table for some spectacular people watching. I like grabbing a gin and tonic and just watching the whole city walk by. Don’t hurry to dinner—the shops here stay open late, and a cone (or cup) from Gelateria Riva is also a worthwhile pursuit.

When you’re ready, stroll over to Marmontova, the main pedestrian shopping street. Near the top, Chops Grill is one of the most popular restaurants in town. As you’d probably guess from the name, the beef here is a speciality. But this is the Adriatic, so you might want to go with something from the sea—the local tuna steaks are my go-to choice.

Spend the morning in Marjan Park. Surrounded on three sides by water, this is the sparkling jewel of Split. Again, it’s a place where you could spend a whole day, but is best visited in the morning, when you can hike before the hot midday and afternoon sun starts to scorch.

Marjan is sometimes known as “the lungs of Split,” and your own lungs will get a workout, climbing the 300-plus steps to the viewpoint. (I’ve never made it to the top without huffing and puffing, a lot.) You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the massive Croatian flag and huge, white cross. The views are the best in town, over mountains, sea, and city. Enjoy a morning snack or early lunch up here at Teraca Vidilica—I recommend the truffle macaroni.

Then, spend as much time as you like in the forest park. In terms of trails, I like the route that traces the coastline, running past a number of cool beaches. My favorite is Kasjuni, a crescent of sand on ultra-clear waters. Get a lounge chair under an umbrella, and laze away the day.

Croatia’s coastline is lined with so many islands, it’s easy to lose count. Most sources say there’s around 1,200—I think I’ve personally seen about a hundred of them. Some sit just near Split, and each one, I can tell you, is its own little world.

Unless you book an island-hopping tour (more on that below), you’ll have to take your pick of one or two to visit. Hvar is by far the most famous. Make sure to grab the fast ferry from the pier in the middle of Split—it will whisk you there in just over an hour. (The slower ferry takes two hours or more.) This is one of the country’s most glamorous islands, with a marina that’s often filled with super-yachts and celebrities sometimes spotted on the streets. If you’re feeling energetic, hike up to the medieval hilltop fortress.

If you’re not, wander around Old Town. Tourists have been coming here since the late 19th century, so you’ll have plenty to keep you busy. Visit the many galleries, the Franciscan Monastery, the Public Theatre (which dates back to 1612), and St Stephen’s Cathedral, which anchors the main square—one of the largest in Dalmatia. And when you’re ready to relax, check out a beach nearby, such as Mlini and its turquoise waters.

BOAT TOUR OPTIONS

If you manage to pack in all of the above, you’ll definitely be ready for a calm, peaceful evening. Fortunately, Split can be sedate, too. When your ferry docks, head west around the harbor—you can walk it in less than 30 minutes—to Sustipan. This park is the perfect place to watch the sunset. I like to grab an Aperol Spritz at Jadran Beach Bar, then walk less than ten minutes to Velum, which serves up fresh seafood (and really good pasta) at tables overlooking the sailboats in the marina.

It is definitely worth visiting the spectacular multi-braided waterfalls at Krka National Park, about an hour’s drive from Split. But it’s best to plan this as a full-day (or even multi-day) trip, perhaps staying nearby in the lovely seaside town of Sibenik.

Instead, rent a car and swing by some attractions a little closer to home, starting with Klis Fortress. It’s only about 20 minutes from town, and the drive, through arid hills and olive groves, with the Dinaric Alps behind, just keeps getting more beautiful. Built to (successfully) repel the Ottomans, today you can try your hand at archery, see the traditional weapons and uniforms, or just marvel at the clifftop vistas.

A skinny territory stretching over the southern half of the Croatian coastline (and into Montenegro), the region of Dalmatia dates back some 3,000 years, into Illyrian times. Today, it is known, among other sunny things, for seafood, olive oil, and wine.

This afternoon, taste the latter two. Your admission to the fortress includes entry to the Klis Olive Museum, located up the mountain. On the way, grab lunch at Perlica Restaurant. Small, friendly, and unassuming, it serves up heaping portions of spit-roasted lamb, which you order (literally) by the kilo. It’s smoky, tender, and very tasty. Finish the meal with some local cheese and bread from the wood-fired oven.

After making your way through a small village, you’ll arrive at Stella Croatica. This was once a family estate and farm, but now serves as a showcase of Dalmatian cuisine. Explore the on-site olive and fig groves, a chef’s garden, and a vineyard.

At the Olive Museum, guides will walk you through the history of this “liquid gold,” from cultivation to production, and finish with a tasting. The guides are really passionate about olive oil—on my last visit, one explained how difficult the harvesting process used to be, climbing ladders to pick the olives, then crushing them by hand with a stone. He also gave me some tasting notes—a good extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) should have a fruity scent and a slightly bitter, pungent taste, he said. And if you love it (you will), buy a bottle (or a case) from the museum shop.

Though you might not find a bottle of Dalmatian wine at your local liquor store (I never have), wine has been cultivated in this region since ancient times. Vines were brought here by the Illyrians, the Greeks, and the Romans. The country has more than 130 indigenous varietals, and at Stella Croatica, you can taste a few, including the famous Zinfandel. (It’s Croatian.) If the weather’s nice, do the tasting in the stone courtyard—the wine pairs well with warm breezes.

DAY TRIP TOUR OPTIONS

As the sun casts shades of amber on the mountains around you, wind down to the coastal town of Omis, about 45 minutes from Klis. It’s a charming place, tucked beneath dramatic sea cliffs. Stop at the municipal beach, where the Cetina River spills into the Adriatic, and walk around the medieval heart of town, including St. Michael’s Square.

End your last day with a memorable meal. I love to grab an outdoor table on the cobblestones at Cocopazzo. If you’re tired of seafood, I’d recommend the pizza—especially the Neapolitan-style margarita. (The crust is just perfect.) If you’re not, try the squid, octopus, or sea bass. Afterward, Split’s not so far away—taking the coastal road, you’ll be back in about half an hour.