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All Articles How to navigate Ghana's epically cool surf scene

How to navigate Ghana's epically cool surf scene

Two surfers share their fave spots for catching some waves.

Briona Lamback
By Briona Lamback19 Jan 2024 4 minutes read
Surfer on the beach in Ghana
Surfer on the beach in Ghana
Image: David Maja

Many attribute the beginning of African surf culture to Bruce Brown's 1966 film, The Endless Summer, which featured West African beach communities in Ghana, Senegal, and Nigeria. But dig a bit deeper and you’ll realize that Brown's film gets far too much credit for introducing locals to surfing—Black people have been riding waves along African shores with surf canoes since the 1640s.

Today, with more than 300 miles of coastline, Ghana is one of the world's best surfing destinations, but for decades, its waves have been overlooked. Although many travelers head straight to for Busua, the country’s surfing hub, for lessons, locals also recommend areas like Cape Three Points and Kokrobite for everyone from beginners to pros—even if you're just looking to escape Accra for the weekend.

To get specific intel on how to make the most of Ghana's surf scene, we chatted with two Ghanaian surfers—Justices Brothers' co-owner Justice Kwofie and Skate Unity owner Jacob Arthur—both of whom call Busua home. “I’ve been surfing for 10 years now,” Kwofie said. “We were always surfing, but it wasn’t proper surfing boards like we’re now using; we were catching white waves with body boards, having fun, and just seeing how far we could go.”

And just as surfing in its many forms has been a staple of the community for generations, Kwofie and Arthur are working to bring even more people into the fold. “We realized surfing was only for men in Ghana, so we brought female surfers in,” Kwofie said. “My team and I decided to go to our churches and schools to speak to girls interested in surfing—we teach them how to swim and surf for free. We wanted to use this program to teach and show them they can be in the water, surfing and having fun like we do. It’s for everybody.”

Here, their best recs on where to go, no matter your skill level.


For beginner surfers

Ahanta Waves Surf School in Busua, Ghana
Ahanta Waves Surf School in Busua, Ghana
Image: David Maja

Busua

Busua is more than a sleepy beach town. “A long time ago, Busua was a fishing and farming village, but now we’re also using the ocean to surf,” Kwofie said.

Despite being a good spot for beginners, beaches in Busua serve different levels of surfers. “If it’s a high tide with white waves, it’s ideal for beginners—the green waves are for professional surfers,” Arthur said. “The best time of the year to come is March because we have a big celebration called the Asa Baako Festival. So many people come around to have fun; there are beach and jungle parties—and surfing, as well.”

Kwofie’s Busua favorites:

  • Surf House: “Before, we didn’t have the Surf House (a community center and hub for the local surf community), so most of the time when we weren’t surfing, we would be at the beach. But now we have this space, so we hang around here.”
  • Ahantanpalms: “In the evening, there’s a cocktail bar called Ahantapalms [and] they have the best cocktails in Ghana, I would say.”
  • Okorye Tree Restaurant: “In terms of good food, I recommend Okorye Tree. My favorite things are the burrito and the kontomire (palava sauce) with yam.”
  • Dixcove: “This spot is close to Busua—a 15-minute drive, but there is no surf school, so you’ll have to rent a board in Busua before going there to surf.”

Arthur’s Busua favorites:

  • Arena Beach Lodge: “I really like it here because they have a pool and snorkeling. They have sports, but you can also just chill there—it’s a cool place.”
  • Laughing Goat Ghana: “It's is where I started skateboarding; it has a rooftop and pool. Sometimes at night, we skate and then go to the rooftop to chill—from there, you can see the beach.”
  • Ahanta Waves Surf School & Camp: “They have good beach access, and you can easily meet new friends.”

For surfing pros

Surfer running into the ocean with surfboard in Ghana
Surfer running into the ocean with surfboard in Ghana
Image: David Maja

Keta

Although Busua is considered the surf capital of Ghana by many, more advanced surfers might not find it particularly challenging. For those who don’t need lessons and are ready to catch waves on their own, Arthur and Kwofie recommends heading to Keta, a fishing enclave at the mouth of Lake Volta.

“In Busua, our waves are very short—you just ride one or two and you’re done. But [in Keta], you can have long rides. There is no surf school, so it’s a place for pro surfers because the current is very strong," Kwofie said.

Kwofie’s Keta favorites:

  • A&Y Wild Camp Ghana: “A&Y Wild Camp is a nature-inspired lodge wedged between a lagoon and the Atlantic Ocean. I normally hang around this guesthouse whenever I’m in Keta.”
  • Aborigines Beach Resort: “Aborigines Beach Resort is the best guest house with very good food, bar, and really nice rooms. There’s a great pool, too.”

Cape Three Points

Cape Three Points, a farmer's and fishermen's village between Dixcove and Princes Town on a small peninsula at Ghana's southernmost tip, is another great pick for experience surfers. In addition to a point break—when a swell strikes a point of land, usually a jutting rock, creating primo surf waves—the area is also home to the country's only coastal rainforest reserve.

Kwofie’s Cape Three Points favorites:

  • Escape 3 Points: “We hang around the lodge because they have very beautiful surroundings with a lot of games to play," Kwofie said. "There’s also a surf school run by a friend called Loshe’s Surf.” The eco-lodge also hosts yoga, whale watching, and a batik-making workshop.
  • Cape Three Points Lighthouse: For 360-degree views of the area’s coastal rainforest, head to this solar-powered lighthouse, built in 1925. The journey to get there will take you through the local village and for a walk along the beach.

For surfers looking for a quick trip to Accra

Justice’s Brothers surfboards stacked along the beach in Ghana
Justice’s Brothers surfboards stacked along the beach in Ghana
Image: David Maja

Kokrobite

If you're looking to surf but don't want to drive the five hours from Accra to Busua, Kokrobite, a small fishing village, is about an hour from the capital. “They also have a point break and a nice surfing area,” Arthur said.

Though small, this stretch of sand is bursting with energy and there are a handful of spots surfers should not miss.

Kwofie’s Kokrobite favorites:

  • Big Milly’s Backyard: Steps away from the beach, this budget-friendly hotel, the oldest beach resort in Kokrobite (it opened in 1995) has rooms surrounded by coconut trees. In the early mornings, head to the water to watch the local fishermen reel in the day's catch, which is in turn served in the restaurant and 24-hour bar, where you're often likely to catch live music.
  • Mr. Brights Surf School: The surf shop run by the Big Milly’s people is widely regarded as a great place for lessons.
  • Kokrobite Garden: The Italian restaurant and guesthouse sit beachside with cozy treehouse rooms and bungalows, a plant-wrapped swimming pool, surf lessons, and yoga classes. “I usually order the chicken curry rice pasta with aubergine," Kwofie said.

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Briona Lamback
Briona Lamback is an award-winning travel journalist and entrepreneur. Through her company, Buoyant, she helps Black travelers connect with cool people, places, and businesses across the African diaspora. She is also on a mission to help more Black women writers create literary legacies through her workshops and retreats. Lamback has been featured in BBC Africa, Buzzfeed, and HuffPost and has written stories for Condé Nast Traveler, Atlas Obscura, BBC Travel, and more.