A weekend on Cape Cod—art, food, and rainbow power

Details in this story were updated in September 2024.

“Where else can you find a fishing town that has a major LGBTQ population and a century-old art colony surrounded by a small wilderness of dunes for wandering,” says Mark Adams, an artist, cartographer, environmentalist, scientist, educator, writer, and changemaker.

Adams is talking about one of my favorite beach destinations on the planet: Provincetown, Massachusetts. I’ve been going to P-town (as it’s known) for as long as I can remember. When I was a little girl, we used to visit family friends in the summer. I remember going clamming on the bay beaches, shopping at the local shell store (which is still there), and enjoying the full parade of life along Commercial, the main street that runs through town. Now, my mom has a house in the Lower Cape, and we escape to P-town wherever we can. It has an indescribable magic and a welcoming spirit that has long attracted artists and writers, the LGBTQ+ community, and really anyone with an open mind and heart.

Like so many locals, Mark Adams came for a brief visit and never left. “I got a full-time job making maps with the National Park Service, and soon I had a large circle of good friends and was invited to show paintings in an art gallery,” says Adams. “What started as a six-month stay became 30 years. In that time, I lost a brother to AIDS, and the Provincetown community was a place to share the loss, wrapped in the care of people with similar stories.” As Adams puts it simply: “I belonged.”

Kelly Fields, a James Beard Award-winning chef, also didn’t expect to land here. After owning a restaurant in New Orleans, she was burned out, and Provincetown spoke to her. “It’s a little bubble. I don’t even know the percentage of queerness or gayness, but when you come here, all you have to do is walk outside and you are part of it,” she says. “It’s a good break from everything that’s terrible in the world right now.” Today, Fields is sharing her food prowess with the P-town crowd, from a gourmet drag brunch at the Crown & Anchor to a buzzy new bar menu at Provincetown Brewing Co.

Former lawyer turned actor, singer, and entertainer Darlene Van Alstyne has a similar story. “One day on Boston’s Orange Line on the way to work, a friend suggested moving to P-town. I said ‘yes’ right then and there, and everything fell into place,” she says. “Being here never gets old—especially looking up into the night sky and seeing a million stars.”

Provincetown is the perfect getaway any time of the year, but it really comes alive during Pride month in June. In this WeekEnder guide, Van Alstyne, Fields, Adams, and I share some of our favorite beaches, restaurants, and over-the-top performance art. Just keep in mind, a weekend visit can easily turn into a lifelong escape.

Charming indie hotels are the name of the game in P-town.

New owners have taken over this waterfront hotel (originally a 19th-century saloon) and given it a big overhaul, from the 18 guestrooms to the performance spaces. Food has a starring role: Brunch is run by chef Kelly Fields (more on that below); at night, the restaurant transforms into Butch's at the Crown.

This inn is all about lofty white-on-white minimalist interiors, which makes it the perfect photo-op. It’s a quiet haven of serenity within walking distance of the Commercial Street action.

This recently redone 1904 property has the most stunning ocean and Cape views from the public spaces; many of the rooms; and the bar, Chalice. “The bar used to be only for guests. Now there’s a flag on their sign, and if the flag’s up the bar’s open,” says Fields.

Right on the outskirts of town is this retro-chic hotel that got a new facelift. “It’s really cute and it has it all: a pool, a fire pit, and great food,” says Van Alstyne. “Plus, it’s directly across the street from the beach and a short walk into town.”

Built in 1840, this woman-owned bed and breakfast is set right on Commercial Street. “Her breakfast is so good that I'll eat here even if I’m not staying,” says Fields.

Adams’s vote goes to this old-school guest house with simple homey rooms, a Commercial Street location, and affordable rates. Plus it’s owned by a local whale biologist, Charles ‘Stormy’ Mayo, “who comes from a long line of fisherfolk,” he says.

You’ll eat very well in P-town.

Brunch by Kelly Fields at the Crown & Anchor - It wouldn’t be P-town without drag brunch, and Fields hosts one of the best. Some of the standout dishes include her signature biscuits and gravy with pimento cheese and a pea and asparagus toast with goat cheese mousse and a poached egg.

Liz’s Cafe Anybody’s Bar - It’s worth the wait for the breakfast indulgences—lobster Benedict, hash and eggs, chicken and waffles—at this restaurant in a historic market

Connie’s Bakery - This bakery serves up sweet treats (raspberry-filled honey brioche, lemon cream donuts) and savory breakfast creations like a Cape Cowboy omelet with turkey chili, cheddar, pico, and avocado.

Portuguese Bakery - “It has all the traditional Portuguese recipes, handed down from the family that founded it,” says Adams. “Some people crave the malasadas, deep-fried flapjack donuts that are also known as ‘flippers.’ I prefer the fish cakes and lemon custard tarts.”

Kōhi Coffee - “Kōhi makes a great cappuccino, but I prefer the short cortado,” says Adams. “They also have a New Orleans cold brew with chicory that is awesome.”

361 Coffee and Espresso Bar - Set right on Commercial Street, this spot has room to sit and savor a coffee. “Amazingly, they also have espresso martinis,” says Adams.

Pop+Dutch - “It’s the perfect place to go for a beach day. You can grab a sandwich or pasta salad, an Arnold Palmer, and some baked goods,” says Fields. We’re obsessed with the Cool Ranch Club with house-roasted turkey breast, bacon, Cool Ranch dip, lettuce, and tomato, all served on Dorito-dusted toasted potato bread.

Mama Matcha Green Bar - Find a healthy and simple menu of matcha drinks, smoothies, salads, bowls, and breakfast all day here. “I love the Omegalicious Bowl with quinoa, spinach, honey-smoked salmon, roasted potatoes, and more. It is so good and so big that it will last you two meals,” says Van Alstyne.

Mac’s Fish House - This popular Wellfleet fish mini chain has been opening locations throughout the Cape. The outpost here is low key and a short stroll from Commercial Street. “Mac’s has the freshest local fish and sushi,” says Adams. Don’t miss the Ritz Cracker-crusted bluefish with garlic mashed potatoes and truffle-cream spinach.

Canteen - Expect Cape Cod standards made from scratch: clam chowder with smoky bacon, fish and chips, fish tacos with mojo slaw. “Canteen rivals Mac’s for the best lobster rolls,” says Adams.

Provincetown Brewing Company - Fields just launched a new menu that puts a big focus on queer farmers in the area and includes fan favorites like lemongrass fish sauce and caramel-coated chicken wings.

Rosie’s Cantina - Fields's favorite “fast and easy” meal is this cantina. “I like to get a burrito from Rosie’s and take it to the Old Colony Tap, which is one of the oldest bars in town,” says Fields.

Patio American Grill - With its tables right on Commercial Street, this open-air restaurant has some of the best people-watching in town. Van Alstyne’s drink of choice: the chili passion fruit martini. “When they opened, I tried it and fell in love,” she says.

Spiritus - This popular pizza spot also hosts art shows. “I always get the Greek (spinach, feta, olives), but the plain is a standard,” says Adams, who loves grabbing a slice and lingering on the benches and watching the scene go by.

Nor’East Beer Garden - “Hands down, the best cooking that’s happening in Provincetown is at this small, hidden open-air restaurant that’s probably just 18 feet across,” says Fields. “Their cocktail list is absolutely insane and the food changes concept every season. Right now it’s Northern Italian small plates. You can go with friends and order everything on the menu, but it’s also a sweet date spot.”

Sal’s Place - This Italian-inflected restaurant reopens for the season at the end of June. Head here for dishes like lobster a la vodka, served with linguini and a creamy tomato sauce, and a singular vibe. “The woman who owns it, Siobhan Carew, can turn any room into a romantic, fun space,” says Fields. “You can also sit on the beach. Sometimes the tide comes in and by the end of dinner your feet are in the water.”

The Mews - “This is definitely date-night material with a beautiful view of the beach,” says Van Alstyne. Sample twists on local favorites, like lobster dumplings with ginger and lemongrass broth, wild mushrooms, and scallions, as well as craft cocktails (the tequila selection is massive).

The Red Inn - “My splurge is a clam vongole dinner or the halibut at the bar,” says Adams. “The view is priceless and the bartenders are witty and friendly.”

Lewis Brothers Homemade Ice Cream - Adams recommends the pistachio ice cream with hot fudge. But sometimes he opts for sugar with a jolt: “The espresso shake is a major experience,” he says.

ScottCakes - “You have to have a ScottsCake if you come to Provincetown,” says Van Alstyne. This cupcake shop carries just one item—yellow cupcakes with pink buttercream frosting—done to perfection.

Drawn by the magical light and the affordable studios, painters have been coming here ever since the railroad arrived in 1873. We got Adams to tell us his art-scene standbys.

The Schoolhouse Gallery - Want to see Adams’s work? Head to this gallery set in an 1844 elementary school that showcases painting, photography, and printmaking. “It also houses the eclectic community radio station WOMR,” he says.

Berta Walker Gallery - Contemporary pieces from old-guard artists like Paul Resika (who does outstanding work in oils) and up-and-comers like Joe Diggs (a multigenerational Cape Codder who is known for multi-layered, multi-textured paintings). “A distinguished roster,” says Adams.

Provincetown Commons - “Always check what’s going on at the Commons, an incubator space with art studios, workspaces and a gallery hall for the up-and-coming artists,” says Adams.

Fine Arts Work Center - “The Fine Arts Work Center is my local hit for fiction writers and rising art stars,” says Adams. “Their summer program has weekly workshops and the visiting artist/writers hold readings and talks several nights a week all summer. (Full disclosure: I teach a field sketch journaling class there in August).”

The Stroll - Provincetown’s art gallery stroll takes place Friday evenings May to October. “It’s very social,” he says.

P-town has been called the “birthplace of American theater,” thanks to a legendary group called The Provincetown Players. And Van Alstyne’s picks below prove the legacy lives on.

Peregrine Theatre Ensemble - Named after Peregrine White—the first child born to the Pilgrims—this theater company is all about braving new waters. Van Alstyne has performed here in the past, and you can catch shows like Hedwig and the Angry Inch.

Provincetown Theater - Founded in 1963, this state-of-the-art theater nurtures Broadway-worthy talent with locally written plays, works by established playwrights, and more. “Spectacular performances,” says Van Alstyne.

Post Office Cafe & Cabaret - It’s cabaret central at this Commercial Street restaurant. This summer brings a new stage, music piped outside, and Van Alstyne singing on Monday nights with local celeb Billy Hough on piano.

Gifford House - The Gifford House used to be the last stop on Cape Cod’s stagecoach line; now this hotel is known for its nightlife, from the basement-level club (Purgatory) to the piano lounge. “This is where I got my start. It’s great for live music seven days a week,” says Van Alstyne.

The Club Provincetown - Set right on the beach, the Club is another live music hot spot. “They have a great jazz band, a house band, and good food,” says Van Alstyne.

From land to sea, Provincetown has adventures for every mood.

Race Point Beach - Van Alstyne comes to Race Point for off-roading and bonfires, while Adams is here for the nature. “Race Point is the place to see whatever pelagic birds are resting nearshore—shearwaters, dovekies, fulmars, the federally protected plovers, and terns,” says Adams.

Herring Cove Beach - Locals come to Herring Cove to avoid the crowds and go bird watching near Hatches Harbor.

Topless Tours - Explore the dunes by four-wheel drive and check out the historic shacks where writers and artists have decamped for decades. “It’s super entertaining. You learn a whole bunch about P-town,” says Fields.

Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch - The whale watching is jaw-dropping in P-town, and this company pretty much created the genre in 1975.

Wood End Lighthouse - Don’t miss the 1.25-mile scramble over the rock jetty, which takes you from the west end to Wood End lighthouse. “You get a great view back at the town,” says Adams.

The shopping finds are endless along Commercial Street.

Vintage in Vogue - A glam detour into fashion history. “I often find a lot of costume pieces that I need for my shows, plus cool designer things,” says Van Alstyne.

Tim-Scapes - “For T-shirts, I like to go to Tim-Scapes and somehow over the years I became his model for a lot of his shirts,” says Van Alstyne. You’ll also find punchy graphic sweatshirts, hats, and prints.

Center for Coastal Studies - Swing by this kiosk and info booth on Macmillan Wharf to get intel on the group’s marine research and conservation efforts and pick up some swag to support their mission. Adams calls this a must-do “before or after your essential whale watch trip.”

Provincetown Bookshop - The local book scene is thriving with this store’s relaunch. “It’s a gem of book curation where I stop a few times a week for the new releases,” says Adams.