4 can’t-miss neighborhoods in LA

Some might argue that Los Angeles is not a real city but a collection of suburbs pieced together by traffic-jammed freeways. And sure, LA is a patchwork of weird and wonderful places—but that’s what makes it so special. Take it from me: I’ve called LA home for more than three decades and have lived on the Westside, the Eastside, and a few neighborhoods in between.

At its core, Los Angeles is as much about Korean dive bars and late-night taco trucks as it is about shiny Hollywood Hills mansions and glam celebrities. The City of Angels can be whatever you desire, you just need to know where to look—and which freeways to take to get there. Since LA has a little bit of something for everyone, I've included four eclectic areas, broken down by interest.

Los Angeles has the highest population of Korean Americans in the country, and Koreatown—a roughly three-square-mile area just south of Hollywood—is the central hub of Korean food, culture, and nightlife. From the city's only hot springs bathhouse to dark taverns dolling out excellent anju (tiny Korean bar bites), K-town has so much to discover.

I love starting my day at Beverly Hot Springs Spa. This oasis has everything you need to relax, including a natural alkaline hot spring, a cold plunge pool, steam room, sauna, and treatments (the full-body scrub is intense but revitalizing). Note: Nudity is normal—and should be expected—at traditional Korean spas, but the space is divided into men’s and women’s sections. When I’m in the mood to splurge, I head to the women-only Olympic Spa.

After being properly pampered, I always crave Soban’s slow-braised black cod or galbi jjim (short rib stew) for lunch. The kind staff inundates you with homemade banchan (side dishes like sweet soy-braised lotus root and kimchi) before your entree arrives. Not all banchan are made equal, and Soban’s are ridiculously good. Next, it’s time to stock up on sheet masks, face creams, and other skincare supplies at Korean beauty mecca Aritaum. The shop has hard-to-find brands, like Sulwhasoo and Hanyul, so make sure you save some space in your suitcase.

Drinking is a favorite pastime in Koreatown. There are an overwhelming amount of watering holes, making it the perfect place for a bar crawl. Walk through The Prince’s crimson front doors for classic cocktails, Korean-style fried chicken, and pitchers of Cass beer in a Mad Men-esque space that dates back to 1927. Two blocks away, HMS Bounty is a nautical-themed bar inside the stunning Gaylord Apartment Building. Wrap up at the dimly lit, smoky Dan Sung Sa bar, my go-to soju spot. Not tired yet? Stumble over to the semi-hidden dive bar Dwit Gol Mok, or if you want to be the star of your own stage, pick up a mic at Brass Monkey Karaoke.

Originally called “Venice of America,” this district was founded in 1905 by developer Abbot Kinney, who created a system of canals and imported gondoliers from Venice, Italy. Insane, I know, but that’s Los Angeles!

Today, Venice epitomizes California cool, from its dirty-blonde surfers biking around in unzipped wetsuits to skaters zipping along the boardwalk. Explore the famous Ocean Front Walk, which is completely hectic but, at the same time, a sight to be seen with its colorful mix of street performers. I always dip into the hippest coffee shop in the area, Hooked Venice, to get a Café Rico (on the secret menu) or a citrusy iced espresso tonic, and listen to whatever vinyl owner Christopher “Nicely” Alameda is spinning on the turntable.

You must rent a beach cruiser bike, and pedal down Abbot Kinney Boulevard for shopping and people-watching. Pull over at Farm Rio for Brazil-made matching sets and dresses, Le Labo for cult-status fragrances, and Mejuri for gold jewelry. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, stop at Gjelina, where the pizza dough is fermented for three days and the greener things on the menu—like salads and grilled vegetables—are a revelation. Look up from your lunch every once in a while, and you may even see (gasp!) a real-life celebrity.

Go for a happy hour cocktail and watch the sunset at the elegant-but-unpretentious Fig Tree, or order a pitcher of beer at the hole-in-the-wall Hinano Cafe, which has been around since the 1960s (as have many of its patrons). There are so many options for dinner, it’s going to hurt to choose just one, but I’m partial to seafood mecca Dudley Market (which Hooked Venice turns into at night), Thai restaurant Night + Market Sahm, and Italian favorite Felix for expensive, albeit incredible, pasta and focaccia. If you’re staying at Hotel Erwin (or even if you’re not), have a nightcap at the High Rooftop Lounge, overlooking the ocean.

There’s a bit of an Eastside vs Westside rivalry in Los Angeles, and some people who live on the Eastside (which includes Silver Lake and Echo Park) wouldn’t be caught dead on the Westside, apart from a beach hang on a really sunny day. I’m personally an equal Eastside-Westside opportunist, but no one can deny that the Eastside scene is absolutely buzzing in a way that would make any Brooklynite feel at home.

Speaking of a buzz, this neighborhood is a coffee shop hotbed. I recommend Canyon Coffee, a gorgeous corner café, or Stereoscope Coffee, where pour-over is an artform. Next, head to Doubting Thomas for flaky biscuits and morning buns as well as an exceptional breakfast burrito.

If you’re here on the weekend, pop over to Silverlake Flea market to browse home goods, art, and second-hand clothes. Continue your shopping excursion at Gift of Garb, one of LA’s best high-end consignment shops, and SLEEPER for even more vintage gems to add to your wardrobe. And don’t miss MARTA, a gallery that prioritizes craft, design, and functional objects.

Stroll down the street to Echo Park Lake to picnic like the locals (natural wine is a must) and ride on the iconic swan boats, which are extra romantic when they light up at night. I enjoy a pre-dinner martini at the cocktail lounge at Taix French restaurant or an above-par margarita garnished with hibiscus salt on the patio at Bar Flores. For dinner, eat lasagna and drink (more) martinis at Donna’s, feast on Malai rigatoni and other Indian-ish comfort foods at Pijja Palace, or dig into a juicy burger at Lowboy. End your night on the dance floor at legendary gay bar, Akbar, where the vibes are friendly and everyone is welcome.

The recently-revitalized Arts District, on the eastern edge of Downtown Los Angeles, was once a bunch of vacant and decaying industrial warehouses. In the ‘70s, artists converted them into studios, and today, it’s a hotspot for creative types. Grab a cup of joe at Maru and lunch at Ditroit, a taquería from Mexican chef Enrique Olvera. The suadero beef brisket tacos are worth writing home about as are the fish flautas and palo-santo-yuzu aguas fresca.

Now it’s time to shop and gallery hop. Start at The Good Liver, where you’ll find gorgeously designed houseware from around the world. Mosey over to Dover Street Market, the high-fashion mecca from London. For art, check out Hauser & Wirth’s roster of established contemporary and modern artists, or Night Gallery, which opened in a strip mall in Lincoln Heights and has since expanded to this 6,200-square-foot space.

If you’re getting a little peckish again, there are several heavy hitters in the Arts District. You can’t go wrong with the Middle Eastern dishes at Bavel. Or Bestia, an always-packed Italian restaurant, serves house-cured charcuterie, gnocchetti with bone marrow, and spicy lamb sausage pizza. Chef Genevieve Gergis’ desserts are sublime—order the bittersweet chocolate budino tart.