All Articles A local designer shares her top spots in the lesser-known Oltarno

A local designer shares her top spots in the lesser-known Oltarno

You've done the city's big showstoppers, so now head across the Arno to the Oltrarno.

Hills of trees and buildings at sunset
Oltrarno; Photo: Tripadvisor
By Laura Itzkowitz 19 June 2023 3 minutes read

If you've never been to Florence, I can promise you this: walk anywhere downtown and you'll be blown away by the city's Renaissance art and architecture—really, the Centro Storico is like a living museum that's so stunning it makes your eyes ache. But with great treasures come huge crowds, and the downtown area gets intense (especially during high season). Don't get us wrong, it's 100 percent worth braving the throngs for, but life moves at a much slower pace across the river, as I just discovered.

In the boho-chic Oltrarno neighborhood, the vibe is more tight-knit village than major tourist destination. Locals gather in the Piazza Santo Spirito with their dogs for morning coffee; the streets turn comfortingly quiet in the afternoon; and artisans create works in the back rooms of cute vintage shops and small independent boutiques.

Woman in black outfit standing in front of periwinkle doors in stone building
Betty Soldi; Photo: Betty Soldi

One of the artisans who calls Oltrarno home is Betty Soldi, a calligrapher and designer who runs three charming boutique hotels—AdAstra, Oltrarno Splendid, and SoprArno Suites—with her partner Matteo Perduca. Soldi’s family has been hand-making fireworks for the city since 1869, so she knows a thing or two about her hometown. Here's a rundown of the spots she insists you check out in the Oltrarno.

So what's your favorite coffee spot?

Soldi's go-to for a morning cup: Ditta Artigianale. "It's got proper coffee and a beautiful airy upstairs where I could hang out for ages." Unlike most Italian bars that only serve standard choices—espresso, cappuccinos, macchiatos, and americanos—Ditta Artigianale has cold brew, flat whites, and specialty drinks like an iced lavender latte and even matcha lattes.

And how about lunch? Any recs?

Inside of restaurant with people at wooden tables plants hanging from the ceiling
Alla Vecchia Bettola; Photo: Tripadvisor

Alla Vecchia Bettola outside the city walls has my favorite Penne alla Bettola with a dash of vodka in the tomato sauce,” says Soldi. The old school Tuscan trattoria is rustic in that very charming Italian way and has been serving classic pastas and bistecca fiorentina for more than 40 years. A heads up: It’s a local favorite and extremely popular, so reserve a table in advance.

If we want an aperitivo with a view, where should we go?

"Any of the cafés in the Piazza Santo Spirito (really the center of the Oltrarno) are fantastic for an Aperol Spritz or a bittersweet Crodino. It's great people watching and you can see the outline of the Duomo from the square," she says. Another fave: the rooftop terrace at Palazzo Guadagni, an elegant hotel inside a 16th-century palazzo. "The views of the city are incredible."

Stone guest room with high painted ceilings, velvet furnishings, and a large glamorous poster over the bed
Oltrarno Splendid; Photo: Tripadvisor

And what about shopping?

“Via Santo Spirito has some great spots: Studio Puck for homewares, Castorina for amazing artisanal wooden craftsmanship, Heart to Heart for customized velvet slippers, and Angela Caputi for cool resin jewelry.”

What’s one cultural activity we absolutely can't miss?

Marble hall with dome ceiling, frescoed walls, and marble sculptures
Museo di Storia Naturale - La Specola; Photo: Tripadvisor

"Palazzo Pitti has the most wonderful exhibitions," says Soldi. The 15th-century palace of the royal Medici family houses four museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Imperial and Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art, and the Museum of Costume and Fashion. It’s a must-visit for anyone who wants a glimpse at how one of Italy’s most powerful Renaissance families lived—plus it’s home to the stunning Boboli Gardens." And then there's La Specola natural history museum, which is finally reopening this year after a massive renovation," says Soldi. It's one of the oldest scientific museums in Europe, and inside there's a zoological collection, the world’s largest collection of 18th-century anatomical waxes, and two telescopes that belonged to Galileo.

And what about a great place for dinner?

“Just one?! I'd start with 4 Leoni (I actually designed the restaurant's logo). I love sitting at the tables in the piazza outside,” says Soldi, who always goes for the fiocchetti pasta stuffed with pears in taleggio cheese and asparagus sauce. When she craves healthy vegetarian food, she heads to 5eCinque. Other recs: Il Santo Bevitore “for a rowdy entertaining evening out” and B.O.R.G.O. “for a quiet intimate tête à tête.”

Any other spots we just have to check out?

"I spend lots of time in the Lory Belle Arti art supply store, or munching on freshly baked goodies at S.Forno" says Soldi. "And if you come to the city when the weather is warm, Serre Torrigiani is a great spot for a drink, with a secret garden that's just magical."

Laura Itzkowitz
Laura is a freelance writer and editor based in Rome with a passion for covering travel, arts and culture, lifestyle, design, food and wine. Her writing has appeared in Travel + Leisure, Architectural Digest, Surface Magazine, Brooklyn Magazine, T Magazine, the Wall Street Journal, Vogue, GQ, Departures, AFAR, Fodor's Travel, Town & Country, Condé Nast Traveler, Robb Report, Hemispheres, and others.