Navigating Rome’s museum maze like a pro
A longtime Rome traveler shares her tips for seven of the city’s best museums.


I fell hard for Rome more than 20 years ago. And like most Italy lovers the reasons were many: the melt-in-your-mouth food, the ancient ruins on almost every corner, the narrow, winding streets where I could lose myself for hours. But the museums are what got me the most—because nobody does museums like Rome.
Of course, every first-time visitor should visit the big ones–from the Vatican Museums to the Galleria Borghese—but there are plenty of smaller, off-the-beaten-path ones to check out, too. From my countless trips to the city, I’ve narrowed down my must list to seven spots for when you want something new, something old, or something ancient.
A heads up: Keep your eyes out for my exhaustion rating because museum legs are real (especially if you’ve got little ones in tow). Fortunately, you’ll be in Italy, where food and espresso are never far away.
The bucket-list experience

Yes, the Vatican Museums are insanely crowded, but they’re an absolute must see anyway. Visiting can be a slog (there are 54 separate collections and 1,400 rooms) for even the hardiest adults, so stick to the heavy hitters: the major Greek, Roman, and Egyptian art collections; the works by da Vinci, Titian, and Caravaggio in the Pinacoteca; the Raphael Rooms; and, of course, the Sistine Chapel, where Michelangelo’s majestic ceiling and The Last Judgment greet your upward gaze.
Tip: If you spring for one guided tour while in Rome, do it at the Vatican Museums. You can take an official Vatican tour or book through one of the dozens of companies offering private tours (I’ve had great luck with The Roman Guy). Either way, your guide will usher you through the labyrinth of museums, hitting all the highlights. Some tours even include entry to St. Peter’s Basilica, which is the only way to skip the long entry line.
Exhaustion level: 10/10
The Baroque villa with Berninis

The former villa of an influential cardinal, Galleria Borghese is an experience in itself, with each room more ornate than the last. And that’s before you even get to the art: sculptures by Bernini, paintings by Caravaggio, and numerous antiquities, all part of a collection begun by Cardinal Scipione Borghese himself in the 17th century. Some of my favorites not to miss: Titian’s Sacred and Profane Love, Raphael’s Entombment of Christ, and all the Caravaggio paintings, including Boy with a Basket of Fruit, St. Jerome Writing, and Sick Bacchus. The size of this museum and its respective crowds are just about right for teenagers, but I’d leave your littlest ones behind.
Tip: Galleria Borghese has strict measures to control crowds, so you absolutely must reserve tickets in advance. I also recommend getting the audio guide, which helped us make sense of both the art and the villa.
Exhaustion level: 5/10
The old museum with even older art

Visit the Capitoline Museums and you’ll be able to say you’ve been to the oldest museums on the planet. It all started back in 1471, when Pope Sixtus IV donated a group of ancient bronze statues to the people of Rome, in turn creating the world’s first museum. Stand-outs today include a priceless statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius on horseback, a bronze she-wolf nursing twins Romulus and Remus (which references the founding of Rome), and fragments of a colossal statue of Emperor Constantine (always a popular photo op for families). On your way out of the museums, which are located at the top of one of Rome’s seven ancient hills, be sure to check out the facades and the central piazza—all designed by a kind of famous guy named Michelangelo.
Tip: Plan to spend a couple of hours here so you’ll have enough time to tour the Galleria Lapidaria, featuring gravestones inscribed with poignant messages. Afterward, walk to either side of the Palazzo Senatorio building for epic views of the Roman Forum, the Palatine Hill, and, in the distance, the Colosseum.
Exhaustion level: 5/10
The less-crowded Capitoline

Opened to hold overflow works from the Capitoline Museums, Centrale Montemartini is housed in a former thermo-electric power plant, where the hulking architecture provides a unique backdrop for monumental Greek and Roman sculptures. Children especially will love the cavernous setting. Don’t miss the reconstructed pediment of the Apollo Sosianos temple, the delicate statue of the Greek muse Polymnia, and the rows of highly individualized portrait busts. Unless a school group is clamoring through, you’ll have these magnificent works blissfully to yourself, which is the real reason you come here. Note that it’s a bit of a haul to get out here, but worth the trip.
Tip: Centrale Montemartini is a ways from the center of Rome (about a 20-minute taxi or 40-minute bus), but you won’t regret it. Afterward, walk about 20 minutes north to the Testaccio neighborhood and visit the bustling market, where you can pick up authentic and delicious Roman street food for the ride home. The suppli (fried rice balls) at Food Box are the best I’ve ever tasted, and people love the sandwiches at Mordi e Vai.
Exhaustion level: 4/10
The hidden gem

Set right on Via del Corso, Rome’s main drag, this delightful art museum is somehow never crowded (though advance reservations are still required to visit). The building is actually a regal palace, where the Doria Pamphilj family still lives, and the art on display is part of their private collection. Beyond its austere facade, the palace is a riotous study in Baroque excess and touring its grand salons and apartments, including the brilliant Hall of Mirrors, is as enjoyable as the artwork itself. Still, Velázquez’s striking Portrait of Innocent X will take your breath away, as will works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Poussin, and Lorrain. Admittedly, kids may run out of patience in the art-packed galleries.
Tip: The audio tour is a must here—it’s narrated by Prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj and includes his charming anecdotes about growing up in the palace (including rollerskating in one of the ballrooms). For a further taste of life at the palace, head to Caffé Doria, the museum’s fancy courtyard bistro. It’s open for breakfast and lunch, but the aperitivo (the Italian version of happy hour with snacks) is my favorite.
Exhaustion level: 3/10
The history lesson

Long before the Roman Empire ruled the Western world, another ancient civilization dominated Rome and much of central Italy: the Etruscans. Their mysterious, artistically advanced culture comes to vivid life at the National Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, where you’ll find one of the largest collections of Etruscan antiquities in Italy. The tombs and grave goods (precious vases, jewelry) are especially fascinating, and it’s hard to gaze at the gently smiling faces of the reclining Sarcophagus of the Spouses (a monumental funerary sculpture) and not feel connected to the ancient couple.
Tip: From Villa Giulia, walk back to central Rome through the leafy Villa Borghese Gardens, one of the city’s largest green spaces (with multiple playgrounds!). Stop at the Pincio terrace for jaw-dropping views of the city.
Exhaustion level: 2/10
The architectural wonder

I initially came here for the art but ended up getting distracted by the architecture. Palazzo Barberini is home to the National Gallery of Ancient Art, but it’s also one of Rome’s most important Baroque palaces, with dueling staircases by Bernini and Borromini—marvels of both elegance and engineering. Once you’ve fully taken them in, you can move on to the collection of European paintings from the 13th to the 18th centuries. Your kids’ eyes might glaze over a bit, but I promise they’ll love the story behind Caravaggio’s bloody-but-stunning Judith Beheading Holofernes.
Tip: You don’t have to buy tickets in advance, but you may want to anyway to get your preferred entry time. Go early and then spend the rest of the day touring nearby attractions like the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and Piazza del Popolo.
Exhaustion level: 3/10