Travel time between tourist areas is much longer than one anticipates. This reflects a combination of poor roads (especially outside the main A designated highways), heavy traffic (watch out especially for the fast, frequent, 'Monarch of the Road' inter-city busses and the slow moving, stinky heavy goods and agricultural vehicles) plus the general lack of vehicle and pedestrian discipline and/or, outside Colombo, traffic lights. Even travelling with car and private driver, average travel times of only 20-30 kms per hour are common.
Because travel is tiring, and constant packing/unpacking a bore, base your holiday planning around travel centres. For example, Dambulla (or Kandalama if you're prepared to spend money in one of the world's most beautiful hotels) is the perfect centre for the so-called cultural triangle (Dambulla, Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and even Anuradhapura) and Nuwara Eliya is good for both the high hill country and Horton Plains (World's End).
It's hotter - and stickier - than you probably imagine (even in winter) which adds to the exhaustion of travel. It also means that you need to be careful in the sun (so you're not among the bright red Westerners on the return flight). Because of the climate, bugs, insects and other creepy crawlies are not unusual. You can learn to happily co-habit rooms with ants and gejos - but mosquitos are an occasional menace.
Central Colombo is a high security zone. (Tour groups are identity controlled often - three stops during a 600 metre car journey from the Galle Face Hotel to the Ceylon Continental Hotel have occurred).
Sri Lankans are charming, friendly and welcoming - and the country is well worth the effort of a visit. But beware approaches from people purporting to be from your hotel who offer local travel advice. Unscrupulous locals pick up westerners with promises of "elephant festivals" and the like, which prove to be non-existent and located far away from their hotel. Once stranded, the unlucky traveller will find themselves handing over money to get back to safety.
Changing Money - There are lots of Western Union Money transfer places where you can change any currency. They particularly dont ask for your passport at these places. The rates however is at the whim of the person sitting at the counter. You can negotiate a better rate. The best rate for any currency was at the couter in Negombo market near airport.
ATM machines - are everywhere, except at the airport. Normal Maestro card works just as fast as at home.
Traveller cheques - are a nightmare; many banks do not want to change; others take 20 minutes to cheques passport and personal details on many forms.
Travelling inside Sri Lanka - There are various modes of travel that can be used like local buses, AC buses and private taxis. For buses the rates are fixed and you can travel around easily. For taxi, it is better to check around the town for a better travel agent. Hotels usually charge a lot more for the same distance.
Sight seeing: Places of interest are far off from each other and located all over the country. So it is better to book hotels likewise. It is advisable to book hotels near to the places of interest so that you can spend time enjoying the place. Dont miss Sigiria and Adam's peak. Water sports facilities are also good and well maintained in Bentota
Children - will love the animals - highlights are the elephants bathing and riding, releasing turtles in the sea and firewalking in Kandy. Do not try second class trains. Sigiria is difficult for children.
Drivers & Guides As of mid 2011 most roads were still not in good condition making self driving slow and treacherous. An abundance of three-wheelers (tuk tuks) and overloaded trucks trying to pass at every opportunity makes things especially dangerous. The government is embarking on an ambitious road-building plan with a new highway from Colombo to Galle scheduled to open towards the end of 2011 but elsewhere, improvements are slow in coming. Its best to leave any driving in the hands of experts.For short trips, hotels can arrange a car and driver between two points but for a longer stay its better to engage the services of a driver who will travel with you.
An ordinary driver may not speak much English but will get you from A to B. A driver/guide who speaks English or your own language is a better option as he can recommend places to see and give you basic information. If you need detailed information special driver/guides with an accreditation from the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau are also available but are more expensive. Drivers travel with you although they have separate accommodation provided by hotels and may eat separately depending on the restaurant. They will also handle payments for you of entrance fees and tips if you give them some money in advance for these purposes.
There are all sorts of ways to calculate the cost for their services but the best way is to give your suggested itinerary and ask for an all up package price that covers the driver’s fee, gas, meals, accommodation and mileage. If you suspect you might do lot of driving additional mileage fees can range from US $ .50 per kilometre so request unlimited mileage in your package price. A standard all-up cost with unlimited mileage for a driver/guide is US $60 per day. A deposit of 50% is also standard before you arrive in Sri Lanka.