Granada, while not a culinary mecca, has a range of good restaurants and a very strong tradition of tapas. Around the areas frequented by tourists, one can find everything from cheap but good schwarma to elegant dining establishments with views of the Alhambra and extensive wine lists.
There are a number of good restaurants in the central and historic areas of the city.
As is the tradition in much of Spain, there is usually a light breakfast of juice, coffee, and tostadas between about 8 and 10 a.m. Tostadas are eaten plain with butter or with a spread of tomato, garlic, and/or olive oil. Many neighborhood bars will serve this type of breakfast. One recommended is Bar Aixa, Plaza Larga, Albaycin. Lunch is eaten between 2 and 4 p.m. while dinner can typically be around 9 or 10 p.m. (or later) with tapas and drinks starting after the end of the workday around 8 p.m. Meal hours are thus much later than typical in many areas of the world.
So, to tie yourself over until your late dinner, do what the locals do and go for tapas. It can be frustrating (the heat, the brusque service) if you are not accostumed, but the tapas are free with your drinks. Some "clever" camareros might try and charge you for tapas, just ask for the "hoja de reclamación" and see how fast they say they made a mistake. For every drink you should get a free tapa even with soft drinks.
You can have a tapas meal for 10 euros. Great places are Los Diamantes (calle Navas) for fried fish and aubergines & Cunini (Plaza de la Pescadería 14) for fish.
And if you get tired of tapas and want to go out for a meal just choose carefully. There is no tradition of restaurants in the province so don´t expect great food or service in them. Granadinos eat at home and go for tapas. If they feel like going to a restaurant they head for pizza!
Some good restaurants in Granada are :
Ruta del Veleta, expensive for its location outside the city. The pottery decorating the ceiling and the jamón iberico is interesting.
Chikito. hit and miss but best place hands down. Sopa Sevillana is delicious. Sit inside, the service outside can be rude especially if you are not from Granada.There are tourist and Spaniards alike in this restaurant. The French which know a thing or two about food are common patrons.
Las Tinajas, you may want to pass; they often make the food quite salty.
Cunini. Great for lunch but prices are expensive. Better go for tapas. They are famous for the ensaladilla rusa and excellent, simply prepared seafood. The fried tapas can be dry on ocassion.
Kebab King is great especially in Calle Pavaneras. They use fresh produce and the food is cheap. Most food in other Teterias "Tea Parlors" is shocking.
For a decent meal and great service (no alcohol). Head over to Arrayanes for Moroccan food. The bastella is out of this world. Cuesta Marañas 4, off Calle Calderería.
For a traditional merienda go to López-Mezquita on Reyes Catolicos. All the old grannies go there and people buy their cakes to bring home there.
Locals in search of romantic restaurants overlooking La Alhambra go to El Agua (Placeta de Aljibe de Trillo 7) where they serve fondues and patés (if it´s a cool night it goes down a treat). Try to book in the terrace. It´s small, charming and cheap.
Bar Kiki for outside dining and Morisco specialties, good wines, typical friendly service, near Mirador San Nicolas, Albaycin
Mirador de Morayma is especially notable for its ambiance (food from
just okay to good), nice outdoor dining in summer, views of the
Alhambra, Albaycin
Sevilla, a bit touristy but reliable, near the Cathedral--try some of the typical Andluasian rice dishes
Tocuato, a typical Granadino restaurant with nice ambiance and good service, Calle Agua, Albaycin
Ruta de la Valeta is overrated as is Castenada
The Syrian restaurant on Plaza de San Miguel Bajo for Arab specialties
STAY AWAY from the food in Plaza del Principe in Realejo. It´s a tourist trap. Mirador de Juan Ranas is in a beautiful venue there, but the food doesn't live up to the locale. They pipe the name of their dishes on some of them. For example, "de toro" for oxtail piped on the side of your dish with meat sauce. Go for a drink in the terraza instead and enjoy the views.
Also, the terraces of the Parador and of the Alhambra Palace are great for coffee.